Today i tried removing anodization with the liquid drain cleaner method. Had some sodium hydroxide in powder form, but i wanted to start small, then move up in danger-level if the liquid didnāt work as desired.
Taped up the threads on a BLF A6 battery tube.
10 minutes in, the anodization started to bubble, and dissolve.
Rinsed it off, and gave it a wash. After some lube it was good to go.
Now i can easily see the difference between my two A6āes
Yeah, hereās a brief description.
Two green SMD LEDās powered directly from the driver with a feed & neutral and 22K resistor.
After a few failed attempts to use wire for the connections I ended up using copper tape over kapton instead.
I filed two cutouts either side of the switch for the wires to come up and soldered onto the copper tape.
These switch dimples are very delicate and will come off fairly easily.
Covered over with some diffusing foam stuff, put steel retainer back in and siliconed in place.
I Un-Protected my old Protected Trustfire 16340 cells. Still used a blue wrap though. Goal was to make them shorter for my M3 Clone and get the most out of them on DD.
Here is whyā¦
Got the parts today to complete my Dead Clone M3. Bought the Clone to replace my Dead OTR M3ā¦ That didnāt work out well. Hated the Clone UI antway and the USB charger killed the light the first time I used it. Itās all better now.
MtnE Fet+1 15mm driver with ramping D4 v2 UI. Used an XM-L2 T6 4C on a 14mm sinkpad. I rewoked the charger circuit to use the LED pads and drilled and mounted the SW board to the pill. Green LEDs look nice under the white OTR SW button.
Driver wasnāt good out of the box, no double blink for batt connection and no Low regulated modes. Took too long to figure out but I finally swapped the 7135 chip and all is Good now.
Jumpered pads on the SW board to get both LEDās to light up at same time and a 15K ohm resistor.
Drilled and tapped the pill forM2X6mm screw with a small head. Pad where the SW board is screwed on is also the Ground to pill.
Testing the green LEDs. The black wire not needed when mouned, screw mount is the ground.
Driver soldered to brass ring and no spring. Filed flat.
14mm DTP SinkPad and XM-L2 T6 4C. Centering ring was trimmed and sanded shorter. That solder spike on the Neg isnāt there anymore.
ML is useable.
In the end it was a lot of work. Loved the M3 till it broke and it was my most used light. Missed it a lot. Clone was a flop and never seen use before it died but it was the Donor for most of the parts. Couldnāt have mounted the SW board as I did with out buying the Clone. The D4 ramping is too Cool and makes this light even better.
Love it now!!!
While moving a East-092 from my C8 to my S2 host(doing a triple build), I accidentally pulled on the positive led wire which ripped off the solder pad underneath and also moved the battery reverse protection diode. I had the negative led wire connected directly to the drain so that connection held. Now Iām wondering how I can get the positive led connected to bat+ with the pad ripped off. Are there any alternate places where there is a direct battery connection? I see some vias coming through, but one is under the mcu and the other two are peeking out from under the middle leg of the fet. Itāll be difficult for me to solder there with the fet there.
Yes it does, but it is not a through the board connection like most other fet drivers I have seen. The connection is off to the side. I did just notice that this driver is not perfectly round, so I can pass the wire around the side to the positive spring.
Pic of my butchered driverā¦
and new
On a side note: This Convoy S2 I got for making a triple feels much lower quality than my C8 and M1. Metal feels thin and light compared to the other two. I think I might get a S8 host and use that for a triple.
Had a quad board with xp-g2 S4 3D left over from my other D4 so I moved them over to one of my stock S41S that came with 219b. I also bypassed both the springs. Much brighter and great tint. It doesnāt have the high cri anymore but Iād rather get more output.
Modded a Shadow JM-26 but have an issue with the switch it seems, I stripped a stock driver for the contact board and glued a switch onto it. Used an FET driver that I had in my bench stuff that was marked TK Ramping, it was already Zener modified so I just ran with it. After a lot of tedious work getting the switch on the stripped driver and piggybacking in the FET, it works ok except the switch seems to be glitchy. I can click and hold for moon and it might bump right back off upon release. Scroll up to high and it might stay, or it might jump to low or it might jump to off. The level control is not reliable, so Iāll probably be going back in to replace the switch (which will be a bear but oh well)
I have an MT-G2 in this one, with the reflector opening cut into a square to clear the substrate of the big emitter. The emitter itself is sliced and diced, bare minimum of dome left above the phosphor and all phosphor trimmed off the substrate around the array. Itās a warm white variant, makes a decent beam, just have to get the operation reliable.
Using a pair of 26350ās in the stock single cell tube.
Edit: Fixed! I had a solder spike from the switch wire to MCU touching the bottom of the emitter shelf. It works great now, 3381 lumens from the pair of half cells. (26350ās)
I tried to open my Olight X7R to swap the emitter with the sweet 80 CRI 4000K XHP70 that I bought from kiriba-ruā¦ and failed
Iāāve already opened quite easily both of my X7, the bezel is simply screwed on, and you only need to press it against some rubber sheet and twist to open itā¦ but that didnāt worked with the X7R
I put the rubber flat on the floor, pressed the bezel against it, put nearly all my weight on the tail with my left hand and turned anti-clockwise with the right handā¦ no success.
Iām stuck there, with a monster flooder and nice emitters to put in :cry: