I am also concerned about change in the aluminums properties.
There is a chance they could lose strength isn't there? Or deform in some way?
I had some pricey cast aluminum rims and just the heat used to bake them after being powdercoated took away alot of their strength. I know its just a flashlight, not a critical automotive part, but I just think bad things when I think of heating aluminum now lol.
I was worried about the tolerances being off after 'broiling' my tight-tolerance built flashlight haha
I don’t think that should be an issue unless u heat it to a melting point , which I don’t recommend I and it seems many here now haven’t had a part not fitting back issue yet but again just my two cents , I’m no pro ,I’m just a person that likes to experiment ,lol
probably worth mentioning, I'm stripping the ano from aforementioned D1 (w/ super clean) and the parts that I heated VERY hot w/ the torch are much more difficult to strip. Probably doesn't imply the coating is more resistant to mechanical wear, but it is definitely more resistant to alkali
From what I could glean from the interwebs, it's likely due to a contraction in pore size.
During anodizing, it's recommended to rinse with COLD water before applying dyes, as hot water will close the pores in the metal, inhibiting dye penetration.
I bet that once the reaction starts, it comes off with extended soaking time.
I plan on doing some selective ano removal, then off to the broiler. Orange/silver, anyone ?
Well this is funny , u will never guess this nor wouldni, my wife and I were cooking some shake and bake pork chops and she saw me playing with my dry the other nigh and asked me to do hers, lmao so while oven was hot I stuck it in there , but I have to have one of the coolest wives ever ,hahaha I’ll post pics when done
so, the ano wouldn't come off the bezel at ALL - 2 or 3 hours in super clean - I even took it out once and heated the super clean in the microwave. for comparison, all the ano came off the tailcap in less than 15 minutes.
I just sandblasted the whole thing because on other parts where some came off, but not all of it, the exposed aluminum was fizzing from reaction with the super clean
I also tried scraping the spots the super clean wouldn't remove - the heat definitely made it MUCH tougher than the original finish
Cool so now we have HA 2.5 lol For Free
Btw when I bought the first 2100 ,she said quickly she wanted one , she liked it better than her surefire and it was brighter ,lol
I had a brand new oven installed last night. Should I hmmmm. yes- no yes- no yes- no. Maybe I need to start a Poll. hmmm. ah- no. But I do have a heat gun. lol
I actually like the two tone look , I did my dry on purpose , possibly the oven heats the parts evenly so u get a closer match , but I think some parts may have been anodized at different times and u get a variation in color changing ,maybe?
I think thicker aluminium heats up slightly slower too but then cools slower so more time to change the color. I should have immersed it quicker. Great idea. Next time I will try my heat gun instead.
I’m going to do my grey shadow pro when it gets here with a heat gun and see what happens;) I think grey turns real green but it could be that dark olive turns real green ,I can’t remember ,lol
It is an improvement. Some lights the ano looks more like paint. I think heating it helps smooth out the apperance. I love the look of my kd c8. Has a copper look about it. Tomorrow I will do another. I wonder what colour this light would change to