[Modding] Astrolux MF01 --> OSH park NarsilM

Hold on… let me repeat what I just read here… 3.68V… You put them in the MF01 second gen (with one pair of wires to led board)… And you get 9670 lumens at startup, and 9220 lumens at 30 seconds? Cuz if this is so… then I’m so getting some more… :smiley:

(P.S. With 3.7V I get about 6000 lumens from my first gen MF01 219C)

Yes once my 1st batch MF01 drops below 3.7v the output is around 6,000 lumens. I am rather interested in the new configuration.

Wow, thanks a lot JIGHEADWORM for measuring. I believe level4/high mode is reduced from ~5500 lumens to ~3000 lumens as well. This means the light should run almost continuously on this level without stepping down as well. My concern is that another member here (patmurris) only measures about 8000 lumens instead of ~10000. So far things look really good though. :+1:

Yeah mine runs around 3000 on high i let it run a long time and it didn’t step down .

[quote=Tom Tom]
LED lifetime in ultra-low/moon mode is in any case academic. Whether very low constant current, or PWMed at much higher current.

They will last forever, in our usage.[/QUOTE]

Unless someone keeps the light constantly in moon mode (in case of power outage it allows to find it fast…). Then that 20k hours - instead of 100 - lifetime can be important…

I’m getting pretty excited to upgrade my MT-01 with Lexel’s new driver and NarsilM. I pulled the trigger last night and it’s on its way to me as we speak!

First I got my D4. Then a pair of Q8 lights. Now I’ll add another ramping light with my MT-01. :sunglasses:

All top notch lights man. :partying_face:

I owe it to all the folks on this forum who steered me in the right direction!

You will love narsilM ramping with Mf01… So cool to get control of those big lumens.

Only drawback is the poor thermal management of the Mf01. 1min45s of turbo and it step-down because you won’t touch the head.

Simple thermal control

When you cant hold the light on the tube anymore and the head would burn you, then the LEDs will be still OK with junction temperature, but your hand cries ramp down

The good thing is that the LEDs are not driven hard, so even if the head would hit 80-90dC the LEDs would not be at their limit of 150dC

I’m still doing research on how to do this with the V2… missing those 4 wires throws me off a big time :frowning:
Maybe I should just send the thing to Lexel…

I did explain here how to modify the MCPCB to 2S/9P

Received mine today - thanks, Lexel!

Still saving up for a decent soldering station though, so it might be a while before I check in here again for advice.

I just unscrewed the bezel, and removed the brass contact ring from the inside. Now I’m wondering if I can just pull the grey wires off the MCPCB, or do they need to be unsoldered?

Also, I don’t understand what’s going on here:

Can someone please explain (for dummies)?

you can unsolder the leads from old driver

if you have 6 its V1 and you can solder 3 of each kind to new driver

if you got only 2 you have V2 and you need to modify the MCPCB as well
cut in 6 places as shown
and
wiring the red circles together
wiring the black circles together

Please correct me if I’m wrong - if I understand correctly, for V2 you basically sever the traces on the star that connect the LEDs where the straight black lines are, and the squiggly black and red lines are where short pieces of cable are soldered onto the star?

Since this is my first ever project, I’m now wondering whether I should dare to rewire the LEDs, or whether I should keep the V1 configuration. I’m assuming I can just make the cuts with a carpet knife?

Thanks for the help. This is all new to me, and I really want to get it right. Got my rework station today, but I’m not even sure if the solder that I bought has a sufficient diameter … I’m eager to get started though once I’m sure I understand everything! :slight_smile:

for V1 star no changes needed, not even opening up the head front

for V2 6 cuts on the marked lines are needed and all same color dots need to be wired to the driver adding bridges and 4-6 more leads (3 or 4 pads on driver), as you should increase the gauge of the wiring by 3 as the current goes up 3 times compared to V2

each wire should share 6 diodes current balanced
you don’t need to follow my painted wiring

I contacted banggood and they are supposed to be sending me a v1 mcpcb.

I wired according to diagram and all leds are working except for 2 leds at mateminco label when you hook up positive wire for the two leds the 2 at mateminco come on an all others go off.If anybody has any ideas let me know.

In the pcture on the bright area the traces are not really good visible, maybe the real trace is there different and another ground wire needed