Modded a Shadow JM-26 but have an issue with the switch it seems, I stripped a stock driver for the contact board and glued a switch onto it. Used an FET driver that I had in my bench stuff that was marked TK Ramping, it was already Zener modified so I just ran with it. After a lot of tedious work getting the switch on the stripped driver and piggybacking in the FET, it works ok except the switch seems to be glitchy. I can click and hold for moon and it might bump right back off upon release. Scroll up to high and it might stay, or it might jump to low or it might jump to off. The level control is not reliable, so Iāll probably be going back in to replace the switch (which will be a bear but oh well)
I have an MT-G2 in this one, with the reflector opening cut into a square to clear the substrate of the big emitter. The emitter itself is sliced and diced, bare minimum of dome left above the phosphor and all phosphor trimmed off the substrate around the array. Itās a warm white variant, makes a decent beam, just have to get the operation reliable.
Using a pair of 26350ās in the stock single cell tube.
Edit: Fixed! I had a solder spike from the switch wire to MCU touching the bottom of the emitter shelf. It works great now, 3381 lumens from the pair of half cells. (26350ās)
I tried to open my Olight X7R to swap the emitter with the sweet 80 CRI 4000K XHP70 that I bought from kiriba-ruā¦ and failed
Iāāve already opened quite easily both of my X7, the bezel is simply screwed on, and you only need to press it against some rubber sheet and twist to open itā¦ but that didnāt worked with the X7R
I put the rubber flat on the floor, pressed the bezel against it, put nearly all my weight on the tail with my left hand and turned anti-clockwise with the right handā¦ no success.
Iām stuck there, with a monster flooder and nice emitters to put in :cry:
I tried running it on Turbo mode for some time but it never reached enough heat to soften an eventual glueā¦ no success
I donāt want to ruin the U-ring that keep the glass in place by heating it too much
With such a big diameter, if itās really glued I will need some big torque to break it !
I modded two new P60 drop-in's today. 4xSST-40's FET drivers. Just luck that these old sinkpads happen to work perfectly, the quad lenses I had on hand fit just right over top of them. I did one with a "perfect" de-dome and one with the slice technique. The bottom pic is the drop-in installed in a 502b with the attack bezel filed down and sanded smooth. On the "perfect" de-dome I wanted it cooler so I actually took the corner of a razor blade and scratched off a tiny bit of the yellow coating on the emitters, it's now very cool white. I wouldn't do this with a single emitter light, but with these multi-emitters it works nice because it all blends together. Just a little bit though or you end up with a very nice royal blue emitter. Just scratch one little spot and lightly at that. Yep, it gets hot fast on turbo but on high it's still very bright and can be run for a good long time. the copper ring is from a 3/4 inch copper pipe cut into about a 3/4 inch piece with a pipe cutter. I then squished the end a little bit in my vice and it actually threads onto the pill perfectly. I used a small round file to file the holes in the pipe and disc before putting the pieces together with good thermal epoxy.
Interesting. I just swapped out the sliced SST-40 in my D1 for an XP-L2 V6 1C. Iām seeing 2387.4 lumens from the little D1 now.
Those SST40ās can really pull some amperage, I tested one in my thrower that made 8.82A at the tail from a 26650, 2397 lumens. They gobble up a cell really well! lol
Edit: Checked the amperage on this single XP-L2 on a 20700A and itās pulling 9.51A!!!
Yeah, that will eat up the batteries all right. But for 2400 lumens itās kinda worth it. I have no idea how many lumens these P60ās are putting out. Pretty bright though. Brighter than a lot of the SRKās Iāve seen.
āAre you slicing SST-40 when itās warm/hot or you shave cold dome?ā
These I did with them cold, and then (after the pic) took some sand paper to them and took them down further and finished them off with some super fine grit to really smooth them out. I actually like the soaking method better but I thought Iād give this a try just to see what difference it would make. And honestly, to the naked eye, itās pretty hard to tell the difference, except the āperfectā ones are cooler now after taking a little phosphorus off of them. If I had to keep one and only one Iād keep the one done with the āperfectā de-dome.
The SST-40 is problematic on de-doming, so Iām told. Tend to take the bond wires with them when the dome comes off the phosphor. I cold sliced mine in a jig I made, honed a scalpel to a mirror finish to reduce marking in the silicone and then applied silicone o-ring grease so itād slide through easier without binding. The slice is so clear itās difficult to tell thereās silicone left.
When I tested the SST-40 in my thrower it was with a 6000mAh 32650, my D1 is using a 3100mAh 20700. Single cell in either case.
I have no problem de-doming them now but it was a process figuring it out. I put them in a jar with the Toluene and soak it in almost boiling water. It takes about a half hour or so, any longer and it will kill some of them.
Itās good to know how to do the slice tech too because sometimes itās a better application. Like on this one, I was worried Iād hit the bond wire with the lens. (I canāt tell you how many times Iāve done that.) Thanks for the tip on the silicone grease Iāll give that a try next time I do them.
Anyone know how to get inside this, to access the LED / Reflector, etc? It has a XP-G3 in it, and smooth refector. Large end doesnāt appear to be threaded on.
So, cold slicing for SST-40, thanks guys, I will give it a try, I am not satisfied with my hot liquid dedome results.
DBC, I think you are using too much flux! There is too much gunk on and around the emitter for my taste.
When reflowing I am only using solder paste, after that I clean the led with 96% alcohol, that I do hot chemical dedome process,
when itās done one more time alcohol bath, then distilled water bath, compressed air to blow off tiny droplets. Thats my workflow.
I donāt use flux at all. Kester solder paste. All of those emitters have been in and out of different lights, especially the middle one, itās several years old and has seen a lot of abuse. I didnāt see any point in cleaning up anything before they get installed in the next project where theyāll get dirtied up again. For the record, the XM-L2 on the far right was not my doing. It accidentally got left in some serious chemicals for a couple of months prior to being sent to me.
I had a solder spike from the switch wire to MCU touching the bottom of the emitter shelf. It works great now, 3381 lumens from the pair of half cells. (26350ās)
