Brinyte B158 mod thread

Thanks, there’s hope. :slight_smile:

Just to echo that, yes, Biscotti is possible. Bistro is for attiny25, the included nanjg driver is attiny13a based.

Just pull out the pill. Unsoldered and carefully remove the led board (they used thermal adhesive). Push the wires into the pill. Using a small nail aimed outward toward the edge of the driver, give it a couple light taps and it should come out. They used a pressure-fit contact board that is connected to a floating nanjg driver. Good luck!

IMO I see nothing wrong with mentioning the ANSI standard throw numbers to the measured lux value. Using “usable distance” as a metric has no point because it is obviously going to be different for someone in Siberia compared to someone in New York City. There is a reason it is the ANSI standard - so that we can all compare equally around the world. It’s not perfect, but it is a standard that we can all use equally.

Using throw has its place because it is closer to how a non-flashaholic would rate a light - how powerful the light is scales close to linearly with how powerful it looks. Using kcd or lux is fine for flashaholics who understand the nuances of how that values is measured/calculated, but not real useful for the layperson who doesn’t know how light power scales exponentially.

edit:

On-topic: In B158 modding news, I used a dedomed SST-40 with FET driver and hit 270kcd. That was just quickly put together the other night, I don’t know yet if the SST-40 will be durable for long times with its low Vf and high amp draw. I tried chemical dedoming of an XP-L W2 for the first time last night, but it wasn’t clean and it left silicon remaining on the phosfor and didn’t hit high numbers compared to dedomed XM-L2 U4 and dedomed SST-40.

Yeah. Nothing wrong man…

Except no one is speaking to people what they really can expect from ANSI distance numbers… I mean on what will happen if they strictly stick to it.

So someone could be greatly disappointed to buy light that claims certain throw distance by ANSI standard and upon turning on that light to realize fact that he got only 50-60% of that distance and he really needed that claimed distance.

I was also among such people… So for example when I bought my first Super thrower at that time(Tiablo A9) that claimed to be 280 meters light(around 20kcd) and upon turning that light finding that it has only around 100-120 meters at fair dark nights is something that made me furious… So nowhere near that claimed distance and I really needed flashlight that could reach that claimed distance at that time…

After collecting some experience; read ime i found that true distance numbers are 50-60% of ANSI claimed distance numbers when used at very dark nights and even less than that when used in moonlight, star nights or snowy night conditions.

People know what they see. And since I have 10/10 eye sight because of my work I can only recommend people to listen to my advice otherwise they could be disappointed.

But man nothing wrong with ANSI… After I figured out my deduction formula I really know what distance I can expect from claimed ANSI flashlight distance. I just say people should be warned what they can expect out of flashlight.

And sure it is very nice to hear that for example 270kcd light throws 1039 meters.
Sounds excellent and no one will be disappointed with that throw that is for sure cause it really have enough throw for any human perception and even for people with bad sight but it will never reach that claimed ansi distance in RL.

Now about B158… 270 kcd in B158 are respective results but SST 40 should be very hot and very short performer at 8A current draw? So after minute or so it will drop to 200kcd?

hi ,i am looking into buying this light with a xpl hi for the throw ,but for the love of God cannot find a remote switch anywhere.
Can i get a replacement tail for this ? so i can dyi me one.
Or would i be better served with another light ? (need only throw)

if you want the maximum throw Then use a flashlight with a bigger Lens
The Uniquefire T75 uses a 75mm Lens That’s why most hunters use it

The T67 (67mm lens) is also Great but has a slightly less range than the T75

the Brynite uses a 50mm lens, it is a good thrower but the Uniquefire ones have alot of accessories like remote switches, Pills and such.

Remote switches are tricky because they often have a very high voltage drop

There are very few useful remotes who use a FET and battery to have the same or less resistance like the switch

I am thinking of doing a remote PCB that contains a small FET and battery for DIY

I am interested in switches for single 18650 fet lights.

Normally with generic monkey tail switch around 40% of performance drop will happen which is really not acceptable in my book so I toss all stupid tail switches I tried… None of commercial switches worked good with my single 18650 fet driver setup.

I know there is a way like making own straight cable 18 awg wires soldered on some kind of thin… I don’t know to find a word for it but it would be V shaped thingy that latches only when V shape merged into I shape…

Annoyed with the low output with remote pressure switches for flashlight?

I did a board with a MOSFET to eliminate the extra resistance from the external switch
size 16-17mm, for 16mm the battery holder fins need to be cut a bit

I use a MOSFET with a low gate voltage which gets full output down to 1.8V

The MOSFET is powered by a CR1225 Lithium battery with 36mAh should run easily hundreds of hours on

Aliexpress has cheap remote switches, you could dismantle for the cable and pressure switch, or one that fits your flashlight
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-remote-pressure-switch.html

Lexel,

Don’t get me wrong but if you are seller selling flashlights to specific population of people(impatient and technically uneducated), you really don’t want to have battery powered switch cause when it eventually dies(and it will die sooner or later) you’ll have hundreds of phone calls how to replace that or where to find battery and loose precious time on something you should’t…

I would be in if you make pure mechanical tail switch without batteries with acceptable performance loss around 10% in lets say single 18650 fet driver configurations.

Your switch idea and board is great but you could only sell that to BLF technically educated community (just few of us).

Think like wide mass and you’ll earn like that :slight_smile:

You cant drive more than 1A through those remote pressure switches if you dont want to spotweld them
Usually they use 0.25mm leads with a total lengh of almost 80cm

The battery is only used when you push the remote switch and lasts hundreds of hours likely a bit over 1000h, the lithium primary can be used over 10years with about 30% self discharge
A FET with 100kOhm ground pull resistor consumes about 0.04mA tops with full battery, of course with no fast PWM like a driver a few megaohms work as well
Them we talk about several thousand hours of operation, where you wear down several 18650s in the progress

If you dont like it you can use a rechargeable lithium coin cell and a bleeder resistor this would. need a diode and minor change of the layout
You can get 12mm coin cells at any watch shop if 5 for 0.8$ on aliepress

Lexel, will you make this MOSFET switches and sale them or you plan on making OSHPark project and parts list so everyone could make their own switches.
I wanted to do this switch long time ago, because I know how poor quality are those available on the market and convoy switch is way too loud but unfortunately my knowledge of electronic is not sufficient for this :frowning:

Good job btw :+1:

I support you if everything is like stated. :+1:

Hope you will start manufacture ready available cable versions for easy swapp with crappy cable switches in our flashlights… I don’t want to do my own cables :slight_smile:

I really like the B158 for its size and swappable pill. Good throw on XPL HI. If you want best all out throw, wait for the BLF GT.

I’m interested in a remote switch as well Lexel!

I have ordered 3 remote cable sets, 10 1225 batteries and 9 Oshpark boards
The rest of parts I get with next mouser order

I will assemble those when I got all parts, then I can test it out
If the prototypes work I will make it open source

BTW, yesterday I made a test with B158B and Emisar D1. I should have used a throwier reflector light, but I don’t have one…
Anyway, I pointed both lights at distance. I looked at how well I can see with:

  • reflector (D1 lost, no wonder)
  • aspheric
  • both

Both focused at the same spot clearly create more lux there. But at the same time it was clear that I could see better with B158B alone. So it’s a confirmation of what others reported before me: you can see farther with a lens than with a reflector. The confirmation would be better if the lights had closer intensities. They don’t and my collection is too small to make a better test, sadly.

Looking forward to it…

Does it make any sense to dedome the xp-e2 red?

I started work in my B158B.
I got a new LED and driver for it.
I replaced the switch already. Need to do something to make the switch post longer, now I need some tool to click. :wink:
I opened the head and removed the MCPCB. Just put needle nose pliers in the cutouts, twisted and the glue failed.
The driver didn’t went so easy. I searched the thread and I saw several members complaining that it’s hard to get out, but only one actually stating how they did it: torched it until it unsoldered from the press-fit ring. OK, I’d like to try something less brutal first….any suggestions?

Also, what is the recommended technique to do bypasses on springs as long as the tail one?

You must use screwdriver, put into hole and hit hard to pop out a driver, you will damage it probably, but as far as I research there is no better way to remove a driver. Actually it is not driver that spring is attached to it, it is other board, driver is floating inside a pill.

I bypass it same way like I bypass driver one, twist conductor inside and solder it. I recommend to change driver spring since it is so bad quality.