You are right, I meant the Thrunite TN42vn. 
Quite happy for the larger swath of coverage of the TG! :+1:
The pics into that reflector are almost hypnotic, am i becoming a flas-a-holic ? 
I thought a reflector was in a grinding machine before polish, i know a CNC lathe can do a okay surface, but its nothing compared to the surface tolerances i far surpassed on my grinding machine.
setting off on a new batch with the stone fresh sharpened, my grindings was slicker than snot on a door knob.
BUT ! i have no idea if you can grind on ALU as you can on tempered steel or raw steel / stainless, but i figure its just a matter of using the right stone for the job.
Some times i worked on some large axles that had gotten a layer of crome, and that shi, stuff was a pain to work on, i have no idea why they dident get those axles sprayed with some proper steel, figure it was cornor-cutting saving money , which i hate as its so noob and anyone can do it.
And besides a CNC lathe could fab up a new axle much faster than i could redo the tolerances on my grinding machine, especially as this was raw steel axles only needing a few grinds where rubber seals was seating.
Dont get it :person_facepalming: some times its like stupid run things.
Jack, as was said before, this is not an Acebeam topic. This is considered hijacking the thread. You need to create a new topic in the commercial sellers spot here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/marketplace/commercial
Or maybe search for an Acebeam thread at least.
Aluminum is so soft it will just clog up the grinding stone. You need sandpaper style flap discs or rolls and even those wear out quick. Like this.
Please add me to the list as well. Thanks!
Please add me to the list as well.
Thanks!
Regards
Daniel
Any update on the shorty tube being available for purchase?
Are the springs on the same PCB as the Bat+ contacts? And the bars are on the outer PCB too? That would mean by removing the protection PCB, the battery carryer wouldn’t shrink and it would be verry easy to remove it.
Is it right so?
Sorry I do not understand the abbreviation, my question can you tell me what these batteries type model and manufacturer. ?
I bought them from nkon.nl from the Netherlands, at a good price. https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/sanyo-18650ga-button-top.html
@Texas_Ace
Thanks a lot for your detailed answers!
- I thought the chosen XHP35 HI was CW since CW is usually higher output (maybe I'm wrong, I'm not deep in this field)
- Thanks for the advice on the batteries. No worries, I understood the "official" recommendation now ;)
- BTW, I usually use a Neodimiun super strong very "small coin" magnet that has Nickel coating, instead of solder blob. Did you try it?
Thanks a lot once again!
Also thought the emitter would be cool white for the increased throw. Why not offer both, no big deal to build lights with two different emitters.
Two different emitters is a big deal in manufacturing, somewhere in production you have to separate two production runs that even to trained eyes are almost indistinguishable.
Were any of the proposed GT logos mentioned in the OP ever posted publicly? While Lumintop has opted against custom logos, I’d love to have one printed on die cut vinyl for my hard case with permission from the designer(s).
Quoted from TA’s previous post:
“The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries.”
— does this mean it has that parasitic drain if the indicator LED is on AND I assume if it can be turned-on, then it can turned OFF? (thereby no parasitic drain, or minimal)
— does this mean if only four batteries are used, the standby time is halved to around 1.5 years?
If so, I will be more comfortable is the parasitic drain be made much lower, as I have lights on stand-by for almost 3 years with batteries in it and never worried about them, and on the other hand, I (and my brother-in-law) have both the Lumintop SD75 (which has horrendous parasitic drain) and we both has ruined 2 sets-of-four batteries.
If the GT will be my only light, then perhaps it will not be much of a problem for I can watch its cells deplete.
I have all my 25 lights sleeping with the tail caps turned a little counterclockwise,so they have not drain.There are two of them I think which don’t “want” this,so I have entirely open up their tail caps.
I guess I have been spoiled by my lights that has no or very minimal parasitic drain that I never worried about them and are ready-to-use, and not have to do “tail-cap loosening or else” ever.
Yes, the springs are on the lower PCB, so you can remove the protection PCB by simply de-soldering those points and pulling it off with no effect on the rest of the carrier function.
I hope for clear weather and some spare time in the evening for TA to measure a proper throw-number