Great, thanks! I don’t need this, but how can I NOT buy this…
You are now signed up.
All lights will be the long, 8 cell version.
Payment details are not set. Once production starts and it gets close to buying time you will get a PM telling you all the details. What store to go to and what special code to enter to get the discounted price, etc… We may even need to do a small deposit before that. It’s still not known.
So for now we wait. 
wait…what?
i though i already make a post after the
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i was on mobile when i quote TA post :person_facepalming:
I think i have read that you should discharge and recharge (or was it only recharge?) the batteries atleast once every 3 months or they degrade alittle.
Or is that just a myth?
Wow, at 50% humidity we get nose bleeds from the arid weather. We’re happy at under 70, at the moment it’s 80 degrees at 81 humidity, ant it was 95% humidity an hour ago.
The 223 uA parasitic drain sounds a little high. DEL measured it early on without the LED's and didn't think it was so bad. Big difference is where/how it was measured. If measured at the batteries, than it's 223 uA at ~16.8V, which is very high.
Now I'm curious bout this - wish I could find DEL's notes on it. I know the buck driver configuration has a higher parasitic drain but didn't think it would be ~8X higher.
A Q8 with the LEDs ranges from 130 uA down to 90 uA, depending on the LED resistors, but that's at ~4.2V.
Well, technically I suppose they do degrade a bit since the lifetime of the cells are finite. But do they degrade in a meaningful way in a few months? I doubt it. Some folks on the forum keep multiple sets fully charged and waiting for an earthquake or whatever . I do too, but I’m too new to this to notice degradation in my cells. Maybe those with more “time in” will get back to you.
When I first entered this world I did research into the best way to store cells, and if I remember correctly it was at 1/2 charge, ~3.6-3.7 v, and in the refrigerator and dry. But again, there are folks who store cells fully charged and at room temp’.
The possible storage temperature range for Lithium-Ion batteries is is –20°C to 60°C but for prolonged storage period –20°C to 25°C is recommended and 15°C is ideal.
Cells should be stored with a partial charge of between 30% and 50%.
CW has the higher readings, but you can see with NW further. The simple ANSI formula is for vacuum. In real live you have other loses.
The blue light scatters more in the air. At dawn you see only red sunlight. The blue part is filtered out.
At a few hundred metres an object is more washed out with a CW than a NW because of scattering.
Sth. 1km away the light must travel 2km. At these distances NW should be a better choice. And 5000K is quite white.
It would be interesting to see two GTs one with 4000k and one with 5000K LED side by side. In different weather conditions.
IIRC DB customs or Texas Ace has a story with a CW and higher readings on the lux meter as the NW. But the NW was in real life clearer to see.
NW cuts also better trough fog and mist.
One Question and One request:
What colour temperature will the emmiter be?
Also, can anybody with a GT post a picture with it next to the Q8, just so I can have a rough idea of how they compare in terms of size?
Thanks !
Aluminium is extremely forgiving regarding cutting parameters (chip thickness, feed speed etc…) if you are willing to sacrifice a bit of machining time to surface finish the part you can have incredibly smooth surface finish with AL on a lathe, they could very easily do a reflector on wich you couldn’t detect any imperfection with naked eye or fingers , but that would be at the very least twice the machining time (would require a change of cutting tool and slow finish pass).
Hello, please put me down for 1. Thank you
Aargh. I was trying to save some money. Dang you guys.
Screw it, I’m in. Sign me up please.
I̶ ̶r̶e̶q̶u̶e̶s̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶p̶a̶y̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶i̶n̶f̶o̶r̶m̶a̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶c̶o̶m̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶#̶7̶5̶6̶0̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶n̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶r̶e̶c̶e̶i̶v̶e̶d̶ ̶a̶ ̶P̶M̶,̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶i̶c̶e̶d̶ ̶m̶y̶ ̶n̶a̶m̶e̶ ̶i̶s̶n̶’̶t̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶a̶n̶y̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶l̶i̶s̶t̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶I̶’̶v̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶e̶c̶k̶e̶d̶.̶ ̶C̶a̶n̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶p̶l̶e̶a̶s̶e̶ ̶a̶d̶d̶ ̶m̶e̶.̶
Edit: Nope - I just haven’t had my coffee yet! 
Yeah high humidity is good for light sabers 
Locally it is 3am, 14c, 95% humidity with the dew point at 13c, not good for beamshots 
Cheers David
Ok, I just got a little time to test the LED’s that Neal found and all I can say is I LOVE them!
First here are the specs, they are D4 bin Neutral white LED’s but interestingly they are putting out slightly more lumens then my “E2” bin I tested previously. I am thinking they were not real E2 bin emitters.
They tested out fantastic, 2600 lumens at the turbo 2.5A that Giggles uses. A bit more from a cold start.
Here is the CW xhp35 HI that came in the prototypes, it is obviously not a top bin emitter.
Here is how they compare:
The only downside to the neutral white emitter is the higher Vf. Looks like it is about ~0.25v higher then the prototype LED.
Luckily the new cell carriers lower resistance helps balance out the higher Vf of the emitter so regulated runtimes should be similar to prior tests. With the higher output the current can drop a fair amount and you still end up with the same lumen output.
It is a trade off but seeing as the NW D4 LED makes basically the same lumens at 1.5A as the CW does at 2.5A, I would say it is well worth it.
After I finished the technical testing I put the other LED into Giggles and boy, it is amazing looking. A nice slightly rosy tint that concentrates into a sun like hot spot. Simply amazing looking.
I can’t wait for it to get dark so I can see what it looks like outside. I might even try to get a beamshot humidity or not.
I want these LED’s to go up for sale somewhere, I can think of several uses for them in other lights. My 3C xhp35’s I had in my other lights now look washed out and dull in comparison.
Great news TA, some picture for comparison would be nice
I have a bunch of pictures in this thread comparing it to other lights: I present you with Giggles, the most hardcore BLF thrower in the World.
The drain is actually right in line with what I would expect. The LM3409 uses a fair amount of parasitic power. The prior drivers tested out at around 140-150ua according to these posts, I got similar results in my tests IIRC.
So that is only around 75ua for the LED’s and they have to drop a lot of voltage to get there, so everything lines up with what I would expect.
I would not complain about them being a bit brighter but it takes 4x as much current then normal (due to 4x the voltage) to make them brighter, so not sure it would be worth it.
LOL, I know the feeling. It is 60% humidity right now but it feels so dang dry. Most of the summer was spent with 80-90% humidity and 95f+ temps INSIDE the house and we didn’t have AC for any of it (well excluding a small window unit in the bedrooms so we could actually sleep at night). This was a fun summer lol.