The GT, Proto V2 arrived!, the BLF special giga thrower

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Texas_Ace
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Mr McLumen wrote:
My feelings are opposite , just sayin’ if I am out camping and see a bear I don’t have to know whether it is a blond or a brunette to know it is a bear. I liken it to anything painted in an “off white” color paint. It looks like a dirty white to me and I like my whites white. Just sayin.

In the real world NW looks FAR more natural, only on a white wall can a NW look “dirty”.

It also depends n the flavor of NW, a 4500K NW is gorgeous to look at in any condition.

5000k is still great (that is the popular 3D tint).

4000k is also good, it is almost the same as HID car headlights (they range from 4100-4300k) for example because that tint has been found to be the easiest on the human eyes and give the most clarity.

If all the studies for cars headlights had them settle on ~4100k-4300k worldwide, then you can bet there was a reason for it.

4500k is my personal favorite tint but either 4000k or 5000k are still acceptable.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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RobertB wrote:
That knurling looks so nice on the battery tube. Seems a shame to machine those flat spots over it

I would almost agree, if we are not going to print anything on those flat spots anyways, there is really not a reason for them to be there I suppose but also really late in the game to make a change that big.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Texas_Ace
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thijsco19 wrote:
That shorty one is really funny looking. The more I look at it the more I want it. But just for the fun, for practical use (as far as the GT is practical.. Big Smile ) the normal tube is much better.

Hey the Miller, change that topic title! Silly

Texas_Ace wrote:
b1i1l1l1y1 wrote:
@Texas_Ace Is the light able to be locked out by unscrewing the tailcap or tube?

Yes, you can lock it out with about 1/4 of a turn on the tailcap.


But that would only work when it’s tail standing? The tailcap isn’t part of the electrical path. The carriers have to loose contact with the driver. Or what do I miss?..

It can be locked out with around 1/4 of a turn, maybe 1/2 a turn max. The carriers have a spring in the button tops, without pressure pushing them together the spring forces them to break contact. Mine generally locks out with as little as 1/8 of a turn.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
No kidding huh, out of balance, who would of thunk? Big Smile

I do not care, I would still like to purchase it if it becomes available, along with spare parts too.


Agreed! I will purchase a short tube if they are offered.
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Thanks for the second gen looks TA, nice pics, really shows how Lumintop is paying attention to detail and getting it right.

McLumens, I also like a pure white not tinted in either direction, but it’s been really tough finding an emitter that follows this line of thought. Slightly warmer than pure white works beautifully though, in the 3D range or so, and I think TA and the crew are pushing for just this, a bit of a higher NW and not the orangy looking tint that still somehow falls in the NW range.

It’s being handled well, I like what I’m seeing and have little doubt it will be done to near perfection quite soon. Wink

Dale

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I would like to be put on the list to buy 2 of those BLF GT Flashlights.
Please advise what to do next.

Brad Siegel

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Some thoughts​ about the GT:

1) As I am also owning an Acebeam K60, I just ask, if an OP reflector has also been tested with the giggles?
I know that an OP reflector costs a lot of throw, but I have seen what a perfect beam it can produce (very good throw/flood balance), together with a large reflector and single emitter.
Wouldn’t an OP reflector deliver a perfect allround torch? (An alternative “miggles” version maybe? Wink )

2) why is no HXP70 emitter used in the giggles? Is it too large for a perfect throw? It would allow more lumens ( at least 5000)…

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Ok, just got done converting the RAW images to jpeg. This is a New-to-me camera so still figuring it out but they turned out pretty good for mostly default settings.

Reasonably close to what we saw with the naked eye. I did take the wrong lens though, this one had a heck of a time focusing lol.

I might try editing them later to help “balance them” but they really are very close as is.

Yes, it really was that bright out, as you can see there are a lot of lights all around from strip malls and shopping centers and even a car dealership, including the parking lot I was in. Add to that the overcast night and humidity, the sun had just set and what you see, is basically what we saw, it might be slightly brighter in the pictures but not much.

Also, while I say giggles is on turbo, it might have been on high for some of these, the person holding giggles didn’t realize there was a different between high and turbo till part way through the shoot. You can hardly tell though even in person.

Here are the beamshots, click them for full size:

This first tower is 4682ft away according to Google, or 1427m or just shy of 0.9 miles. It is also heavily backlit with light.

Zoomed out control shot, 18mm with AP-C sensor:

Zoomed out Giggles on turbo:

Zoomed in Control shot, 55mm with AP-C sensor:

Giggles on Turbo:

This second tower is a bit further away, 5808ft according to google or 1770m or 1.1 miles.

Zoomed out control shot:

Zoomed out giggles on turbo:

Zoomed in Control Shot:

Zoomed in Giggles on turbo:

A few more random shots:

Notice how the beam looks blue even though it is on the warmer side? That is a great example of why cool white LED’s do not through as far in the real world. The blue light gets scattered much easier then the warmer tones and scattered light by definition does not make it to the target.

The color is great on this LED when used in the real world as well, here is a raccoon we spotted about ~500ft away, notice how everything looks natural?

Here are some more shots that shows the tint pretty well, looks like a small sun. A bit on the warm side of neutral but nothing extreme.

Now for my personal impressions now that I have used it in the real world.

I still love this LED, it is bright, easy on the eyes and throws way further then the CW version for sure.

For example I tried lighting up these water towers with the V1 prototype but even to the human eye it was hard to see the light hitting them for 2 reasons.

1: The cooler 3A tint that I had in the V1 while technically neutral was still fairly cool and it scattered bad. Remember this picture:

That is really what it looked like and it was only ~15% higher humidity that night, compared to picture below from last night, you can see how much less light is scattered.

So the light simply could not make it as far due to the atmosphere fighting it. This LED on the other hand seems to cut through much better. I was worried about getting good shots tonight but man, it cut through the ~65% humidity great!

2: The V1 LED caused so much light to scatter that it really screwed with your vision, it was almost blinding just to look at the beam and made it very hard to see long distances without squinting, which killed your night vision.

This LED is far more enjoyable and pleasant to look long distances with then the cooler LED, no question about it.

On top of that this LED seems to have better contrast and that makes it easier to actually see things down range as well.

For real world use at long ranges, I am completely happy with this LED!

Now for the considerations, this LED is a 4000k LED, which some people think is a bit too warm, I will admit that 4500k is my personal perfect tint but the fact is trying to get another LED would add significant delays and complications to the GB and all for a very small change in final tint? Plus we have no idea if we found some 4500k LED’s if they would be as powerful as these 4000k which are strangely high output.

Seeing as HID headlights are between 4100-4300k, You can bet there is a reason for this range being selected where high visibility it paramount for safety and usability.

The 4000k LED looks great in the outdoors but does have a hint of yellow if you are looking at a white wall. It really does look like a small sun, both tint and intensity.

Off topic but from a few feet away Giggles literally is brighter then the sun, I got a reading well over 100k lux when playing around with it, 100k lux is roughly the sun, at noon, in the middle of summer.

So before commenting on your desired tint, please keep these things in mind:

1: 5000k / 3D xhp35 HI’s could not be found anywhere in the world from The Teams, Neals, or Lumintops searching.
2: 4500k may or may not be possible to find but it would be from an unknown source with an unknown quality and unknown lumen output. As much as I love 4500k, a bird in the hand is worth 2 in the bush.
3: It would add significant delays to the production to use another LED besides these 4000k
4: Cost could also increase slightly if another LED is used from an “outside source” due to the extra costs involved with using said source.

5: The team has final say on the tint based on what we feel is the best for all involved, that said we do want to hear peoples opinions so that we can make an educated decision.

Personally I am once again very happy with both the sphere and real world results of this 4000k LED, I truly feel it is the better option for real world long range use. The only thing I would say is not ideal is the higher then expected Vf. Although it still appears to hold high output till about ~3.7V cell voltage, which is about 50% of the total runtime, so that is not bad. We have no idea what another LED’s Vf would be, it could be lower but it could also be higher.

If someone wants to get technical and explain how the longer wavelengths of the warmer tones can travel further, like low frequency radio waves, please feel free.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Kingjohn wrote:
Some thoughts​ about the GT:

1) As I am also owning an Acebeam K60, I just ask, if an OP reflector has also been tested with the giggles?
I know that an OP reflector costs a lot of throw, but I have seen what a perfect beam it can produce (very good throw/flood balance), together with a large reflector and single emitter.
Wouldn’t an OP reflector deliver a perfect allround torch? (An alternative “miggles” version maybe? Wink )

2) why is no HXP70 emitter used in the giggles? Is it too large for a perfect throw? It would allow more lumens ( at least 5000)…

1: This light is all about throw, I also like OP reflectors as a rule but in this case SMO is what works better.

2: I actually plan to test an XHP70 or better yet XHP70.2 in the prototype once I am done using it for testing. I will naturally post the results when that happens.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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I don’t mind that led tint (What tint is it???), I do wish to have something a little bit cooler (Q8 tint or better) BUT I rather have the light now and can definitely wait for better LED / Tints to become available, I am still considering to mod it to a XHP-70.2 anyway, so the tint is a non issue with me… Just my $0.02

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Texas_Ace wrote:
RobertB wrote:
That knurling looks so nice on the battery tube. Seems a shame to machine those flat spots over it

I would almost agree, if we are not going to print anything on those flat spots anyways, there is really not a reason for them to be there I suppose but also really late in the game to make a change that big.

True, if they already have the tubes machined. If not, it’s one less step they have to do. Mor moola in their pocket !

AlexGT
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I was also wondering, do the battery carriers and tubes support a bigger diameter battery like a 20700 for example, it would only be about 2 more mm in bore size and would be a bit more future proof…

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Kingjohn wrote:
Some thoughts​ about the GT:

1) As I am also owning an Acebeam K60, I just ask, if an OP reflector has also been tested with the giggles?
I know that an OP reflector costs a lot of throw, but I have seen what a perfect beam it can produce (very good throw/flood balance), together with a large reflector and single emitter.
Wouldn’t an OP reflector deliver a perfect allround torch? (An alternative “miggles” version maybe? Wink )

2) why is no HXP70 emitter used in the giggles? Is it too large for a perfect throw? It would allow more lumens ( at least 5000)…

This light is somewhere between 4 and 5 pounds. I don’t think it’s ever going to be an all around light by any definition.

As someone else stated the XHP70 will penalize throw, which is the objective of this particular light.

Guns don't kill people, bullets do.

Nav88
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The 4000K LED seems like a no-brainer. The tendency for lower scatter is totally consistent with the design intent of the light.

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You mean that the tint resembles to that of the Maxtoch 2X if you know it?Because I don’t like it.

Texas_Ace
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AlexGT wrote:
I don’t mind that led tint (What tint is it???), I do wish to have something a little bit cooler (Q8 tint or better) BUT I rather have the light now and can definitely wait for better LED / Tints to become available, I am still considering to mod it to a XHP-70.2 anyway, so the tint is a non issue with me… Just my $0.02

It is a 4000k 70CRI D4 bin (although it seems to preform better then that) xhp35 HI LED.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Texas_Ace
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RobertB wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
RobertB wrote:
That knurling looks so nice on the battery tube. Seems a shame to machine those flat spots over it

I would almost agree, if we are not going to print anything on those flat spots anyways, there is really not a reason for them to be there I suppose but also really late in the game to make a change that big.

True, if they already have the tubes machined. If not, it’s one less step they have to do. Mor moola in their pocket !

We are discussing it in the team now and will ask Lumintop about it when we speak to them next. It was a good idea, it just might be too late.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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Texas_Ace
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AlexGT wrote:
I was also wondering, do the battery carriers and tubes support a bigger diameter battery like a 20700 for example, it would only be about 2 more mm in bore size and would be a bit more future proof…

I don’t have any 21700 to test but I doubt they would fit between the carrier rods, it is a tight fit with the 18650 as it is.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

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Nav88 wrote:
The 4000K LED seems like a no-brainer. The tendency for lower scatter is totally consistent with the design intent of the light.

I agree, the real world results surprised me, it had so much less beam scatter. The light saber effect was vastly improved (bad for looking like a Jedi, good for seeing long range).

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

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Theodore41 wrote:
You mean that the tint resembles to that of the Maxtorch 2X if you know it?Because I don’t like it.

I don’t have one myself but IIRC it uses a de-domed LED right?

In which case, no it would look nothing like that. I despise dedomed LED’s with a passion and refuse to use them due to how bad the tint is.

Instead of a puke green lifeless spot of light, Giggles gives you a nice rich, natural looking swath of sunlight to light your path.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

Theodore41
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Theodore41 wrote:
You mean that the tint resembles to that of the Maxtorch 2X if you know it?Because I don’t like it.

I don’t have one myself but IIRC it uses a de-domed LED right?

In which case, no it would look nothing like that. I despise dedomed LED’s with a passion and refuse to use them due to how bad the tint is.

Instead of a puke green lifeless spot of light, Giggles gives you a nice rich, natural looking swath of sunlight to light your path.


Thank you TA,it is real good news. Smile
ISO
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This looks great.

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I like the 4000K for Giggles, I modded all my throwers to 4000K 5D several years ago from the original cool white emitters. Definitely improved contrast and depth perception as well as reducing light scattering from the blue wavelength.

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May I please ask for a picture of hotspot on the white wall at some lower level like 100 – 200 lumens range, and next to the other NW light you have.

I dont mind 4000K tint since XHP35 HI led cost around 5$ and should be easy swap, but it would be nice to see just as a reference ..

BTW have you tried to measure cd with new reflector,and new led?

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TA, could the scattering on v1 be due to the older reflector?

The latest prototype has the smoother reflector and has a better beam. Coincidence?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

6 NarsilM user videos
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

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NikolaS wrote:
May I please ask for a picture of hotspot on the white wall at some lower level like 100 – 200 lumens range, and next to the other NW light you have.

I dont mind 4000K tint since XHP35 HI led cost around 5$ and should be easy swap, but it would be nice to see just as a reference ..

BTW have you tried to measure cd with new reflector,and new led?

I posted some white wall shots of it earlier in this thread and in my separate thread here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55976

I can try to get a comparison shot later.

I tried to measure the CD but my readings are never very good due to the city and the high humidity. They appeare to be around ~4% higher then my V1 numbers but they can vary a lot day to day depending on the conditions.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
TA, could the scattering on v1 be due to the older reflector?

The latest prototype has the smoother reflector and has a better beam. Coincidence?

I highly doubt it, only the blue wavelengths are being heavily scattered, the warmer wavelengths are almost unaffected it seems. That would be due to the tint, the reflector would have little effect on that.

Now the old reflector did seem to have a wider corona then the new reflector and that could be improved here but if you look at the beamshots you can see that even the old reflector did not get a lot of scatter from the corona, most of it was from the collimated beam, just like the new one.

If anything the more concentrated beam should make the scatter from the beam worse (aka, it glow brighter in the pictures) but the opposite is what is happening.

I have seen this before with other lights as well, going to warmer tint always nets me better long range performance by a significant margin.

thslw8jg wrote:
I like the 4000K for Giggles, I modded all my throwers to 4000K 5D several years ago from the original cool white emitters. Definitely improved contrast and depth perception as well as reducing light scattering from the blue wavelength.

Just like that^

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Texas Avenger Driver Series

My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

Complete collection of all my LED test Charts

Shelf Queen
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IMHO, 4000K is the perfect color temperature for this exceptional light. It’s very pleasant to the human eye and it’ll add to the uniqueness of this thrower. Thumbs UpThumbs Up

My LEMAX LX70 had 4250K and I absolutely loved it.

The Miller
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MARK
At lastlist updated and topic title changed

The Miller
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Just too good not to quote Big Smile

Texas_Ace wrote:
Condensed cliff notes version:

- New reflector is much improved, has some minor specs that don’t affect the beam that are already being worked on by lumintop
- Centering ring is good, just needs to be careful when installing
- Kurling on battery tube, fantastic, could not ask for more
- Lighted switch, 223ua of parasitic drain, about 3 years of standby time with 8 cells
- New Battery carriers are all metal now, double springs, much lower resistance and better design. The button top spring could use a brass or copper coating, needs arrows on all 4 rods
- Tailcap sticker for protection against reverse installed cell carriers could be improved but is acceptable as is if it had to, going to see if they can make a cutout to prevent the V+ from even being able to hit the tailcap, that would fix it

Overall I would say that Giggles is almost ready for approval with minor tweaks that would not need another prototype.

The last thing that needs to be settled is the LED. I am going to try to test those out later today or tomorrow.

Ok, here are my initial impressions of Giggles V2 as I start breaking it down.


The reflector is a massive improvement, while there is still some minor ringing when held close to a flat surface it is much much better then before. The surface smoothness is now good enough to go into production IMO. Not perfect but really good for such a large reflector at this price point. Further improvements would have minimal if any noticeable improvements to the beam.

There are some minor imperfections on the reflector, minor specs, looks like some dust got caught in the coating process, Lumintop has already confirmed that they are working to fix this for the production run. They are just cosmetic though, they are so small they would have no effect on the actual throw.

So how does this boil down to real world use? VOB still has the V1 prototype (I plan to send him the V2 proto once I am done with it so he can compare them on video), so I can’t compare them side by side. I am going off memory but the hotspot does seem more defined, kind of like the difference between a very mild orange peel and a SMO reflector.

I took some throw readings but due to the very high humidity in Texas my readings are never as good as others and they can vary by quite a bit depending on the day.

In this case it does seem to be averaging roughly ~5% higher than the V1 reflector, which is about what I would expect. Although this LED is different then the V1 so take these numbers with a grain of salt.

Overall I would give the reflector an A, still minor improvements to be made in getting rid of the specs but a passing grade none the less.



The new centering ring also appears to work good, although they will still need to make sure that the production versions are careful with the install. My LED had some minor damage to the silicone but luckily I checked it before tuning the light on and after cleaning it was fine. This is just from being removed and installed several times I am sure, this light has obviously been used for a lot of prototyping.

The next biggest change is the Kurling. All I can say is wow, it is amazing. Somehow it manages to add a surprising amount of grip without feeling abrasive. In fact it feels really good to hold. It also looks fantastic.

A+ on the kurling, could not ask for more.



The tailcap has an added sticker on the inside to provide electrical isolation from the cell carriers, it looks good as well. Not sure how well it will hold up over the long term though. Luckily even if it is missing it would not cause an issue unless the carriers are inserted backwards.

With the new carrier design I think the best option would be to make an indention in the tailcap to prevent the button top of the carrier from being able to contact the tailcap even if it was inserted backwards. There should be plenty of room and would be a simple fix.

It would be acceptable as is if needed though.


I think they forgot to install an o-ring in the tailcap ring, so it rattles a bit but that is just a prototype issue. This needs to be in the final version for sure.

Now for the carriers.

*They are very nice, all metal construction and double springs this time. *

The polarity protection is also very well done, I like the U shaped cutout, it makes it easier to insert and remove the cells. They did end up soldering the protection PCB to the base PCB for some reason. Not sure why they did this. It can be undone easily with a soldering iron through so not a problem for those that don’t want it. All you need is a $2 iron to do that.

Spring testing is very good as well. The losses in the spring > trace > contact for next cell is only around 40mv at full height (no compression of the springs). If I compress the springs that drops down to around 15mv at max compression (aka, if you used protected cells) or it looks like around 30mv at “normal” cell compression heights.

So voltage loss at 2.5A is less then 0.2v for all 4 springs. Much better then the first carrier.

The “button top spring” on the top of the carrier is not quite as good as the others but about the only improvement it could have is a copper/brass coating, otherwise the spring is about as good as it can get in the space it has. I measured about 75mv voltage drop for the complete connection from the bottom of the carrier to the top.

So grad total the voltage drop in a single carrier at 2.5A should be less then 0.3v and with springs compressed in actual use it should be closer to 0.2V.

That is perfectly acceptable and once again a passing A grade. A brass or copper coating on the button top spring would be nice to see. Also it needs arrows on each “rod” showing the correct way to insert the carrier.






This is the button top spring that could use a copper or brass coating:

The threads and all the other parts of the light are still just as good as the first prototype

The driver firmware appears to be the wrong version, it looks to be using the Q8 ramp table if I had to guess. This should be easily correctable, I am waiting for Tom to get back to me on what version I need to flash to it, otherwise the driver appears to work fine. I will test further once I have the correct firmware.

The indicator LED’s work good. I measured a total of 223ua of parasitic drain with the driver in sleep mode and the indicator LED on. This means that with both carriers full it will have around 3 years of standby time before draining the batteries. I think that is acceptable. It is also not nearly as bright as the Q8 which is nice for night time use. It can be adjusted by the end user by swapping a resistor if they wanted it brighter or they could switch to a clear cover.

Overall an A grade here, this is the most universal setup I can think of, brighter would drain more power then I would like and some people don’t like it that bright and dimmer would make it less useful in some cases.

It does not look quite this bright in person:

So overall this light is basically ready for approval. Just a few minor details to hash out.

Here are a some random pictures to keep you entertained while that happens:







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