Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[duvallite]

@blinker

@duvallite

@patmurris

I received some brass screws from zoujianchow2013 on ebay. Mine where cracked and oily. Others had better luck with the same seller… It’s the chinese lottery i guess.

I just received my order of brass screws from this same seller yesterday. They were slightly oily and all but 1 have at least 1 hairline crack. I cleaned them up with a degreaser and will use the best 6. Should be okay.

Which 6 should be replaced?

The driver screws (2) and tail pcb screws (4). M2.5x5mm screw works, at least for 2nd batch Q8s.

[Flintrock]

Well, I thought I liked neutral. I have some T6, color bin 4C I think, or that's what fastech said, xm-l2. As I recall that bin has a minimum cri of around 80% maybe. I must say I much prefer them to the Q8, which is significantly "cooler", but that's not so much the issue as it just seems colors are slightly flat in comparison. As LED's go the Q8 is pretty good still, far better than cool whites, but not as nice as my T6's. Probably more lumens though. Considering replacing with a warm xp-l2 if I ever feel like blowing the cash on them.

[Guesticles]

@teacher

@Guesticles

QUESTION FOR BANGGOOD

Looking to follow up on the status of my order. It has tracking from last month for the 22nd through 25th, and then nothing since then. The “expected” delivery date was over a week ago, according to their own site. Not sure what all information I need to provide to TM.

My last one left China 23 October headed for Kennedy in NY. There was no Tracking update at all till 9 November when it was handed over to the USPS.
So it just sat somewhere in NYC for over 2 weeks. :person_facepalming:
Hopefully yours will show some movement also……

At least yours has tracking state side. The last tracking from mine was still in China almost three weeks ago now.

[Flintrock]

So just checked, and those fasttech xm-l2 T6-4Cs are 4200-4500 where the Q8 is XP-L 4750-5000, so yeah a little cooler. The bin datasheets from cree show that both of those should be minimum 70 cri/typical 75. I definitely prefer the T6. Whatever the reason it feels more natural to me.

[Pchri12]

@Flintrock

So just checked, and those fasttech xm-l2 T6-4Cs are 4200-4500 where the Q8 is XP-L 4750-5000, so yeah a little cooler. The bin datasheets from cree show that both of those should be minimum 70 cri/typical 75. I definitely prefer the T6. Whatever the reason it feels more natural to me.

You’re wierd.

[strayz]

To those that have lights lost in the mail, contact bandgood and they will make it right. DHL managed to loose mine (tracking even shows it). They have a replacement on its way. It will take a few extra days but at least it is coming.

[Flintrock]

@Pchri12

@Flintrock

So just checked, and those fasttech xm-l2 T6-4Cs are 4200-4500 where the Q8 is XP-L 4750-5000, so yeah a little cooler. The bin datasheets from cree show that both of those should be minimum 70 cri/typical 75. I definitely prefer the T6. Whatever the reason it feels more natural to me.

You’re wierd.

Haha, well normal people probably don't modify flashlights, but as for the led's those t6 4c's are pretty popular from comments I've seen, and have 28 reviews on fasttech, a lot more than any xm-l2 in any or all 3-bin's, including U2 3c or 3b, and the U2 1-bins have a whole 1 review.

[ToyKeeper]

@Pchri12

@Flintrock

So just checked, and those fasttech xm-l2 T6-4Cs are 4200-4500 where the Q8 is XP-L 4750-5000, so yeah a little cooler. The bin datasheets from cree show that both of those should be minimum 70 cri/typical 75. I definitely prefer the T6. Whatever the reason it feels more natural to me.

You’re wierd.

Hah, Flintrock may be weird, but not because of that. Lots of people prefer 4300K-ish tints over 4800K-ish tints. The 4000K Nichia is particularly popular around here.

IIRC, the XM-L2 also might have somewhat less variation across the beam, which would make it look better, but I don’t recall for sure. XM-L2 has a full and smooth dome, while the uneven XP-L dome got shaved on the edges to make it fit an XP-sized pad. It’s great that it fits the smaller pad, and it’s easier to do mods with an XP footprint, but the emitter itself was originally designed for a different dome.

[teacher]

@Guesticles

@teacher

@Guesticles

QUESTION FOR BANGGOOD

Looking to follow up on the status of my order. It has tracking from last month for the 22nd through 25th, and then nothing since then. The “expected” delivery date was over a week ago, according to their own site. Not sure what all information I need to provide to TM.

My last one left China 23 October headed for Kennedy in NY. There was no Tracking update at all till 9 November when it was handed over to the USPS.
So it just sat somewhere in NYC for over 2 weeks. :person_facepalming:
Hopefully yours will show some movement also……

At least yours has tracking state side. The last tracking from mine was still in China almost three weeks ago now.

Hmmmm…. when did you order yours?

My last one did not/is not coming by FedEx SmartPost… it is USPS all the way once it hits the USA.

This may not help, but if your Tracking Number starts & ends with letters like this… LS03@@@@@48CN …… plug it in here…… https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction_input …. and see if you get any results.
You may have done this already, but if you haven’t it can’t hurt to try.

[ssschen]

@The Miller

@s_mukherjee

Is there any warrenty for this light?

Well I suppose the usual warranty applies here with things from China, which unfortunately means issues that pop up fast will mean follow up from my side and thus Thorfire. If it cones up after months just post here or PM and we see what can be done.

@wimmer2121

I realize the group buy is long past, but if anyone hasn’t paid or if there’s just any extras, I would like to purchase one.

Thanks and no worries if none are available.

What Tom said, check M4DM4X for code and price.

Guys

I just want to mention that I placed my order last month on 22/10 using the GB code provided to me by “The Miller” in early September that supposedly expires end of Sept, and it still worked for me last month. Assuming the code is unique, perhaps those who did not end up placing an order can still try it out?

EDIT: I opted for FREE SHIPPING. The order was dispatched on 24/10, and surprisingly I received it in Australia right on 2 weeks on 07/11.

[d_t_a]

I notice the BLF Q8 is on pre-order now at Banggood. I’m wondering if the next batch of BLF Q8 might have other issues that the first batch seem to experience. Also, is there any updated firmware (I saw mentions of NarsilM v1.1 or 1.2, not sure what are the differences) for the BLF Q8 — what firmware is the latest currently installed (or scheduled for next batch release)?

Another question, it’s mentioned that true flat-tops may not work (eg. original Samsung INR18650-30Q), but raised flat-tops like the LG HG2 might work. How about plain Panasonic NCR18650B? It looks like I may not be able to order any more 18650s — all the previous online shops, including the ones from AliExpress) that formerly ship to our country, now indicate “cannot deliver to the Philippines”.

~

Also wondering, what’s the difference of the BLF Q8’s light output compared to say 4xBLF A6 3D-tint (eg. tie up 4 of these in a square pattern), and let’s say put the 4xBLF A6 into Turbo mode — compare it with BLF Q8 at Turbo mode — will they have similar light output using same batteries (perhaps the beam pattern will differ)? The BLF A6 3D-tint uses the same emitter as the BLF Q8, isn’t it?

[ssschen]

I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?

[Zulumoose]

@ssschen

I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?

Hi ssschen

Remember that in the Q8, unlike devices with single battery or battery carriers, the top of the batteries will be rotating around the contact ring, ie there will be a lot of sideways friction on the positive pole as the battery tube is screwed in. This could dislodge a magnet, potentially causing a short. It may be a bit risky going the magnet route.

[Flashy_Mike]

@JasonWW

Nah, you can still use magnets, just put them on the negative side.

How does this help against shorts at the positive end?

[djozz]

@d_t_a

Also wondering, what’s the difference of the BLF Q8’s light output compared to say 4xBLF A6 3D-tint (eg. tie up 4 of these in a square pattern), and let’s say put the 4xBLF A6 into Turbo mode — compare it with BLF Q8 at Turbo mode — will they have similar light output using same batteries (perhaps the beam pattern will differ)? The BLF A6 3D-tint uses the same emitter as the BLF Q8, isn’t it?

The Q8 is for a great deal not unlike 4xBLFA6 taped together, same battery/led set-up, but there are nuances: the surface area of the 4xA6 is a comparable so the maximum sustainable output is also similar (~2000lm at room temp/no airflow, if you like your flashlight hot), but the heat path and amount of metal in the right places is way better in the Q8, so while the 4xA6 must step down at 40 seconds, the Q8 with more soaking capability takes more than 3 minutes to get to the same temperature. That makes the Q8 also easier on the leds so I expect them to live longer.

[JasonWW]

@Flashy Mike

@JasonWW

Nah, you can still use magnets, just put them on the negative side.

How does this help against shorts at the positive end?

Sorry, I was thinking of too short springs and magnets as spacers.

@ssschen

I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?

You can’t put any type of magnet on the positive end on the Q8 or any similar design flashlight. You either need proud positive posts or add solder blobs. There’s no other alternatives.

[The_Miller]

Received word from Barry
Next batch Q8 lights will have latest Narsil.
Just clear lenses , no coating.
And they try to get better springs.
The next batch is gen 6 or 7 so I think it is pretty cool it gets a bit better, usually it seems to be the other way around

[d_t_a]

@djozz

@d_t_a

Also wondering, what’s the difference of the BLF Q8’s light output compared to say 4xBLF A6 3D-tint (eg. tie up 4 of these in a square pattern), and let’s say put the 4xBLF A6 into Turbo mode — compare it with BLF Q8 at Turbo mode — will they have similar light output using same batteries (perhaps the beam pattern will differ)? The BLF A6 3D-tint uses the same emitter as the BLF Q8, isn’t it?

The Q8 is for a great deal not unlike 4xBLFA6 taped together, same battery/led set-up, but there are nuances: the surface area of the 4xA6 is a comparable so the maximum sustainable output is also similar (~2000lm at room temp/no airflow, if you like your flashlight hot), but the heat path and amount of metal in the right places is way better in the Q8, so while the 4xA6 must step down at 40 seconds, the Q8 with more soaking capability takes more than 3 minutes to get to the same temperature. That makes the Q8 also easier on the leds so I expect them to live longer.

Thanks for the explanation!
(4x BLF A6 taped together is also more expensive than a single Q8; plus would be much hotter as you mentioned)

@The Miller

Received word from Barry
Next batch Q8 lights will have latest Narsil.
Just clear lenses , no coating.
And they try to get better springs.
The next batch is gen 6 or 7 so I think it is pretty cool it gets a bit better, usually it seems to be the other way around

Thanks for the update!
So the Banggood pre-order that says “expected shipping on Dec 5 or 9” would have these improvements… I might make an order while the M4DQ8 coupon code is still active.

[ssschen]

@JasonWW

@Flashy Mike

@JasonWW

Nah, you can still use magnets, just put them on the negative side.

How does this help against shorts at the positive end?

Sorry, I was thinking of too short springs and magnets as spacers.

@ssschen

I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?

You can’t put any type of magnet on the positive end on the Q8 or any similar design flashlight. You either need proud positive posts or add solder blobs. There’s no other alternatives.

@Zulumoose

@ssschen

I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?

Hi ssschen

Remember that in the Q8, unlike devices with single battery or battery carriers, the top of the batteries will be rotating around the contact ring, ie there will be a lot of sideways friction on the positive pole as the battery tube is screwed in. This could dislodge a magnet, potentially causing a short. It may be a bit risky going the magnet route.

Thanks guys. Glad I asked. I will stick to button top batteries in this flashlight. I do have 4 button top 30Q that I managed to get from BG before they stopped shipping batteries to Australia. They are currently scattered across 3 flashlights. Charging the flat top now to replace them with. But for my own info, when using magnet slabs on flat top battery in single battery flashlight, what ones are best to get?

[Tom_E]

@The Miller

Received word from Barry Next batch Q8 lights will have latest Narsil. Just clear lenses , no coating. And they try to get better springs. The next batch is gen 6 or 7 so I think it is pretty cool it gets a bit better, usually it seems to be the other way around

I've posted about this before, but the second batch is improved in all the screw mountings, including:

• de-burring threaded holes
• better screws
• improved reflector mounting with the screw mount re-design
• better quality in assembly - no more stripped screws and over-tightening
• no more evidence of glue or foreign substances at the tail PCB mount points

Also the switch PCB and green LED's are much improved in the 2nd batch.

There's been other subtle changes though, more on the negative side:

• AR lens - appeared to be single sided, seems to effect the tint negatively
• labeling on the the driver and switch boards has been changed from English to Chinese to identify the ground, LED, and switch wire connections - dunno why this happened, but it's showed up on some, think'n the latest, Q8's

Also there's still some QC issues I've seen recently:

• solder blob found on the underside of the driver on the ground ring, resulting in the driver not sitting flat and even
• on another recent stock Q8 when I measured lumens output, the meter detected flickering, erratic variation in output, that is not noticeable in the beam indoors, but I've never seen the meter jump up and down like it did. Normally for the first 30 seconds, output just gradually reduces, fast at first, then slowing down. In tearing the light fully down, I could not notice any obvious issues. Hoping that in fully modding the light with bypasses, improvements on electrical contact surfaces, and replacing the FET and LED wires, the problem will go away -- still need to confirm this. I also re-heated up 2 of the LED's that seemed to be reflowed the worse, thinking that maybe one of them could have had a suspect connection. It might just be a bad LED, so may still notice the flicker. Interesting thing is no one may notice this problem without a meter.
• Reflow of the LED's could be better. On several Q8's I noticed the LED's are not sitting flat - usually one side is higher than the other, sometimes the + and - pads are not fully making contact along the entire pad. It seems like they are using too much solder paste. Dale pointed out previously the center thermal pad is lower than the + and - pads, so maybe that's complicating the factory reflow. I would prefer to see sizable overflow pad extensions on all 3 pads, like a Noctigon has: