Haha, well normal people probably don't modify flashlights, but as for the led's those t6 4c's are pretty popular from comments I've seen, and have 28 reviews on fasttech, a lot more than any xm-l2 in any or all 3-bin's, including U2 3c or 3b, and the U2 1-bins have a whole 1 review.
Hah, Flintrock may be weird, but not because of that. Lots of people prefer 4300K-ish tints over 4800K-ish tints. The 4000K Nichia is particularly popular around here.
IIRC, the XM-L2 also might have somewhat less variation across the beam, which would make it look better, but I don’t recall for sure. XM-L2 has a full and smooth dome, while the uneven XP-L dome got shaved on the edges to make it fit an XP-sized pad. It’s great that it fits the smaller pad, and it’s easier to do mods with an XP footprint, but the emitter itself was originally designed for a different dome.
My last one did not/is not coming by FedEx SmartPost… it is USPS all the way once it hits the USA.
This may not help, but if your Tracking Number starts & ends with letters like this… LS03@@@@@48CN …… plug it in here…… https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction_input …. and see if you get any results.
You may have done this already, but if you haven’t it can’t hurt to try.
I just want to mention that I placed my order last month on 22/10 using the GB code provided to me by “The Miller” in early September that supposedly expires end of Sept, and it still worked for me last month. Assuming the code is unique, perhaps those who did not end up placing an order can still try it out?
EDIT: I opted for FREE SHIPPING. The order was dispatched on 24/10, and surprisingly I received it in Australia right on 2 weeks on 07/11.
I notice the BLF Q8 is on pre-order now at Banggood. I’m wondering if the next batch of BLF Q8 might have other issues that the first batch seem to experience. Also, is there any updated firmware (I saw mentions of NarsilM v1.1 or 1.2, not sure what are the differences) for the BLF Q8 — what firmware is the latest currently installed (or scheduled for next batch release)?
Another question, it’s mentioned that true flat-tops may not work (eg. original Samsung INR18650-30Q), but raised flat-tops like the LG HG2 might work. How about plain Panasonic NCR18650B? It looks like I may not be able to order any more 18650s — all the previous online shops, including the ones from AliExpress) that formerly ship to our country, now indicate “cannot deliver to the Philippines”.
~
Also wondering, what’s the difference of the BLF Q8’s light output compared to say 4xBLF A6 3D-tint (eg. tie up 4 of these in a square pattern), and let’s say put the 4xBLF A6 into Turbo mode — compare it with BLF Q8 at Turbo mode — will they have similar light output using same batteries (perhaps the beam pattern will differ)? The BLF A6 3D-tint uses the same emitter as the BLF Q8, isn’t it?
I know many here put solder blobs on their flat top batteries. If I choose not to do this, does anyone have any links to recommended magnet slabs to use?
Remember that in the Q8, unlike devices with single battery or battery carriers, the top of the batteries will be rotating around the contact ring, ie there will be a lot of sideways friction on the positive pole as the battery tube is screwed in. This could dislodge a magnet, potentially causing a short. It may be a bit risky going the magnet route.
The Q8 is for a great deal not unlike 4xBLFA6 taped together, same battery/led set-up, but there are nuances: the surface area of the 4xA6 is a comparable so the maximum sustainable output is also similar (~2000lm at room temp/no airflow, if you like your flashlight hot), but the heat path and amount of metal in the right places is way better in the Q8, so while the 4xA6 must step down at 40 seconds, the Q8 with more soaking capability takes more than 3 minutes to get to the same temperature. That makes the Q8 also easier on the leds so I expect them to live longer.
Sorry, I was thinking of too short springs and magnets as spacers.
You can’t put any type of magnet on the positive end on the Q8 or any similar design flashlight. You either need proud positive posts or add solder blobs. There’s no other alternatives.
Received word from Barry
Next batch Q8 lights will have latest Narsil.
Just clear lenses , no coating.
And they try to get better springs.
The next batch is gen 6 or 7 so I think it is pretty cool it gets a bit better, usually it seems to be the other way around
Thanks for the explanation!
(4x BLF A6 taped together is also more expensive than a single Q8; plus would be much hotter as you mentioned)
Thanks for the update!
So the Banggood pre-order that says “expected shipping on Dec 5 or 9” would have these improvements… I might make an order while the M4DQ8 coupon code is still active.
Thanks guys. Glad I asked. I will stick to button top batteries in this flashlight. I do have 4 button top 30Q that I managed to get from BG before they stopped shipping batteries to Australia. They are currently scattered across 3 flashlights. Charging the flat top now to replace them with. But for my own info, when using magnet slabs on flat top battery in single battery flashlight, what ones are best to get?
I've posted about this before, but the second batch is improved in all the screw mountings, including:
de-burring threaded holes
better screws
improved reflector mounting with the screw mount re-design
better quality in assembly - no more stripped screws and over-tightening
no more evidence of glue or foreign substances at the tail PCB mount points
Also the switch PCB and green LED's are much improved in the 2nd batch.
There's been other subtle changes though, more on the negative side:
AR lens - appeared to be single sided, seems to effect the tint negatively
labeling on the the driver and switch boards has been changed from English to Chinese to identify the ground, LED, and switch wire connections - dunno why this happened, but it's showed up on some, think'n the latest, Q8's
Also there's still some QC issues I've seen recently:
solder blob found on the underside of the driver on the ground ring, resulting in the driver not sitting flat and even
on another recent stock Q8 when I measured lumens output, the meter detected flickering, erratic variation in output, that is not noticeable in the beam indoors, but I've never seen the meter jump up and down like it did. Normally for the first 30 seconds, output just gradually reduces, fast at first, then slowing down. In tearing the light fully down, I could not notice any obvious issues. Hoping that in fully modding the light with bypasses, improvements on electrical contact surfaces, and replacing the FET and LED wires, the problem will go away -- still need to confirm this. I also re-heated up 2 of the LED's that seemed to be reflowed the worse, thinking that maybe one of them could have had a suspect connection. It might just be a bad LED, so may still notice the flicker. Interesting thing is no one may notice this problem without a meter.
Reflow of the LED's could be better. On several Q8's I noticed the LED's are not sitting flat - usually one side is higher than the other, sometimes the + and - pads are not fully making contact along the entire pad. It seems like they are using too much solder paste. Dale pointed out previously the center thermal pad is lower than the + and - pads, so maybe that's complicating the factory reflow. I would prefer to see sizable overflow pad extensions on all 3 pads, like a Noctigon has:
Thorfire probably had to stop the production line on the Q8 temporarily for a couple weeks so they could produce some other models of lights that Banggood (and other stores) has been out of stock of and waiting for.
