I really want to say this is awesome. Many thanks to everybody who is involved in this ambitious Project.
I can’t wait to hold this thing in my hands……
I could be wrong, but from what I’ve learned on this forum you should always keep your sets of cells together if your’e going to be using them in sets in a multi cell light. If you take one of those batteries and put it in another light and use it more than the other 7 cells in your set, later down the road you could run into a problem where one cell has less capacity than the rest. Basically what I’m saying is that you shouldn’t buy 8 cells for your gt and then occasionally swap one of them into another light for awhile and then use it again in the set of 8.
I believe this is a safety issue, hopefully someone smarter than me can chime in.
just get what i got, a sky rc charger, and charge em at 3 amps x4
can do 8 cells in hour and a half or so :+1:
lifes too short for slow arse chargers i say
What does the sky rc charger cost (what model are you talking about) and how can it charge 8 cells if it’s 3A x 4?
The Gyrfalcon All-88 does 1A x 8 and runs about $58.
The Liitokala lii-500 does 1A x 4 and costs $25. So you can get 2 for $50.
The Miboxer C4-12 can do 3A x 4 and was on sale for $32. You can get 2 for $65 and charge at 1A, 1.5A, 2A, 2.5A or 3A each, whichever is safest for your particular cells.
Miboxer is planning on a C8 version which might be cheaper than $65 (price not known yet), but it is still a ways out.
So there’s lots of options, you just need to decide if 1 big charger or 2 smaller chargers best fit your needs.
Your right, the cells should be matched and married. Just keep in mind that Kingjohn said that if they were no longer needed in the GT they could be used elsewhere.
I read it as if he had 8 matched and married cells, then decided it was too heavy and he didn’t need the extra run time so he kept 4 cells in the GT and then split up the other 4 to use in different lights. That is perfectly fine.
That is exactly why we dropped the ramp max down to 2A. Going from ramp max to turbo is hardly even noticeable when you see it happen.
No need to go below 2A, that is a good output for the xhp35 before it really starts to drop in efficiency. Turbo is for people that want every last bit out of the light. I would not use it long term, while the LED handles it fine it sure doesn’t do it any favors and it figures that it will wear out faster. Better to just use the ramp max.
Wow, I just noticed that this GB has over 1200 people on the list! I was hoping to crack 1000 when I started on this project, glad to see I didn’t overestimate the desire for such a halo light.
I ‘Ctrl-F’-ed on the first page of this thread, and I didn’t find my name. Can I please be added for one? I had originally put my name down back in post #6451, and I wonder if I was accidentally missed.
Thanks to everyone involved in making this light happen - making something this great takes a lot of time and effort, and I appreciate it!
I agree 2A is the sweet spot.
Only downside, if you don’t want to use 2.5A, would be loosing the 2 clicks to max, no biggie.
Upside is when a xhp35.2 or other new led, that likes a bit more current comes out, one could just swap out the mcpcb and have the extra current with turbo, without having to mod the driver.