That is exactly why we dropped the ramp max down to 2A. Going from ramp max to turbo is hardly even noticeable when you see it happen.
No need to go below 2A, that is a good output for the xhp35 before it really starts to drop in efficiency. Turbo is for people that want every last bit out of the light. I would not use it long term, while the LED handles it fine it sure doesn’t do it any favors and it figures that it will wear out faster. Better to just use the ramp max.
Wow, I just noticed that this GB has over 1200 people on the list! I was hoping to crack 1000 when I started on this project, glad to see I didn’t overestimate the desire for such a halo light.
I ‘Ctrl-F’-ed on the first page of this thread, and I didn’t find my name. Can I please be added for one? I had originally put my name down back in post #6451, and I wonder if I was accidentally missed.
Thanks to everyone involved in making this light happen - making something this great takes a lot of time and effort, and I appreciate it!
I agree 2A is the sweet spot.
Only downside, if you don’t want to use 2.5A, would be loosing the 2 clicks to max, no biggie.
Upside is when a xhp35.2 or other new led, that likes a bit more current comes out, one could just swap out the mcpcb and have the extra current with turbo, without having to mod the driver.
If you double click to turbo and then hold the button for just a second it will drop back to the ramp max.
Although for about $5 you can get the parts you need to re-flash the driver and you could then setup the driver with whatever max you wanted. If it was asked I bet Tom could even make a pre-made hex file with a lower turbo output.
You are absolutely right. If I need only one cell for another flashlight, I will always take a different one…
All should be used the same amount of time…
And before using them together again in one light, I will fully top them up all together in the same charger.
All should have the same level of wear especially in a 4S1P light!
And none must have been over discharged, otherwise the danger of a mismatch is high.
If they are no longer perfectly matched, you can still use them together in a 1S4P light (the BLF Q8 for example).
In a 4P configuration, if your have a cell that delivers less power, the others will take over.
Here you just have to ensure, that the others can deliver a higher current in such a case.
(Your have to know the specs of the cells)
But if all 4 cells are always used together in the same light, you most probably needn’t care for all those things…