Miller, would you point out to Thorfire that it’s traditional in most countries to sell replacement parts for products* that may blow parts up, like fuses?
Except of course for microwave ovens and computers, which usually go into the landfill once a fuse blows (sigh).
Would you please ask TF to consider the company they want to keep, and to make the replacement parts available on an ongoing basis.
In this case either the springs, or populated tail PCBs, would be appropriate to have available.
(That way we may get the benefit of improvements in design over time as well, or so I can hope since you mentioned they’re looking to source better springs …. )
They could, I’d speculate, easily charge $10 for a replacement tail PCB and make money on the deal from early adopters who get a bit careless or want a spare to modify.
I don't know how you can do polarity protection on the battery. You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it's there, but diodes eat voltage. I would think you'd need active circuitry with FET on each battery, or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.
You are missing the point. This is about two cells or more put in opposite ways around, into a 4P torch. Consequently creating the most massive double-voltage short.
You can protect against it it mechanically, with a simple plastic disc, that allows positive button-tops to contact, but blocks their flat negative bases.
It is already there, for the circuitry. A diode to protect the MCU. The FET and 7135 have to look after themselves, which they do. Surely you are familiar with the schematic by now ? And no, it eats no voltage from the main LED.
That would be the springs (assuming not bypassed). A real problem to fix for most.
This thread's a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it - your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes:
For Vers 1.2 2017-10-16:
ADDED : (from MAD777, maybe others) if strobes are disabled, a 2X click from 2X turbo should restore the previous level you were at
FIXED: 4X clicks in modes operation engages lockout - not supposed to
ADDED: operation change: make click&hold in MODES or STROBES wrap from 1st mode to last
FIXED: in LVP switch LED control: the LED sometimes is left on after an LVP drop, and is not blinking the way it should be. The "bug" is that I'm trying to control the switch LEDs from multiple places so it's getting turned off quickly after turned on, and left on when it should be left off. It's a timing thing, so has sort of a random pattern - sometimes left on, sometimes left off. The 8 sec LVP blink need to be qualified better, and should not be calling Setlevel() as is because it wants to control the LED
FIXED: temp stepdown should not happen right away from turn ON. Delay it by 15 seconds
FIXED: for temperature stepdown, in moon mode, a temp stepdown is actually done because moon mode is marked as special level 255, which is considered as a high level of output instead of very low. The stepdown results in the light switching much brighter. This should only happen id the temperature threshold is set to a low temp, or the light is still hot and not cooled down when moon mode is chosen. It can also result in an immediate jump to the stepdown level as soon as the light is turned on in moon mode. Might appear as a bright flash when ramping first starts.
There's more previously implemented:
added momentary/tactical mode via 5X clicks in ramping mode - only active til a power reset (full turbo only when switch is held down) - It's only accessible from ramping mode, not Mode Set operation
full BLF GT buck driver support
capability of setting max ramping to less than full max FET (Hi mode), while the 2X click still goes to full FET turbo. This is being used for the GT buck driver configuration.
added more compile switches, little better custom configuration of the source in header files
I'm also working on improving the accuracy of battery voltage reporting - so far it seems dead-on to rounding on a Q8. For example, 4.06V to 4.15V reports as 4.1V.
It is threaded. But your OCD will hate it to scratch the ano on that retaining ring, which is very easily done. So the fix starts with filing to shape a plexiglass device that fits the notches in the retaining ring, or print it.
1) buy a leaning tower of Pisa print
2) Have someone else hang it for you
3) don’t straighten it, because if you do, it will need straightening.
4) I said DON’T, refer to 3
Obviously I was discussing electrical solutions, and I never said the diode on the mcu eats LED voltage. A diode on each battery would. The mechanical solution sounds good.
