This thread's a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it - your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes:
For Vers 1.2 2017-10-16:
ADDED : (from MAD777, maybe others) if strobes are disabled, a 2X click from 2X turbo should restore the previous level you were at
FIXED: 4X clicks in modes operation engages lockout - not supposed to
ADDED: operation change: make click&hold in MODES or STROBES wrap from 1st mode to last
FIXED: in LVP switch LED control: the LED sometimes is left on after an LVP drop, and is not blinking the way it should be. The "bug" is that I'm trying to control the switch LEDs from multiple places so it's getting turned off quickly after turned on, and left on when it should be left off. It's a timing thing, so has sort of a random pattern - sometimes left on, sometimes left off. The 8 sec LVP blink need to be qualified better, and should not be calling Setlevel() as is because it wants to control the LED
FIXED: temp stepdown should not happen right away from turn ON. Delay it by 15 seconds
FIXED: for temperature stepdown, in moon mode, a temp stepdown is actually done because moon mode is marked as special level 255, which is considered as a high level of output instead of very low. The stepdown results in the light switching much brighter. This should only happen id the temperature threshold is set to a low temp, or the light is still hot and not cooled down when moon mode is chosen. It can also result in an immediate jump to the stepdown level as soon as the light is turned on in moon mode. Might appear as a bright flash when ramping first starts.
There's more previously implemented:
added momentary/tactical mode via 5X clicks in ramping mode - only active til a power reset (full turbo only when switch is held down) - It's only accessible from ramping mode, not Mode Set operation
full BLF GT buck driver support
capability of setting max ramping to less than full max FET (Hi mode), while the 2X click still goes to full FET turbo. This is being used for the GT buck driver configuration.
added more compile switches, little better custom configuration of the source in header files
I'm also working on improving the accuracy of battery voltage reporting - so far it seems dead-on to rounding on a Q8. For example, 4.06V to 4.15V reports as 4.1V.
It is threaded. But your OCD will hate it to scratch the ano on that retaining ring, which is very easily done. So the fix starts with filing to shape a plexiglass device that fits the notches in the retaining ring, or print it.
1) buy a leaning tower of Pisa print
2) Have someone else hang it for you
3) don’t straighten it, because if you do, it will need straightening.
4) I said DON’T, refer to 3
Obviously I was discussing electrical solutions, and I never said the diode on the mcu eats LED voltage. A diode on each battery would. The mechanical solution sounds good.
There’s a no-cost way that everyone can do to avoid shorting out the cells that way. I know it’s a tough one, but at the no cost price point it should be something literally everyone can do.
Pay attention when inserting cells.
It’s THE easiest way to ensure your light keeps working, time after time….
(Yes, I know, it should go without saying. Apparently it needs to be said louder and more often.) Lights like these are not toys, the danger is real. What if, and I’ve seen it before so I say this in truth, what if the spring welded itself to the cell in that sudden burst of extreme current, instead of dropping the cell out of contact? Milliseconds come into play, things get ugly really fast when the incident takes a slightly different turn…
I have used a red Sharpie marker to make a red ring around the + end of all my 30Q’s, both flat tops and button tops. I used red tape on some at first but one light had a clearance problem with the extra thickness. So I went to the marker.
