Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[Tom_E]

I'm also working on improving the accuracy of battery voltage reporting - so far it seems dead-on to rounding on a Q8. For example, 4.06V to 4.15V reports as 4.1V.

[red72vw]

Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T”on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance

[djozz]

@red72vw

Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T”on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance

It is threaded. But your OCD will hate it to scratch the ano on that retaining ring, which is very easily done. So the fix starts with filing to shape a plexiglass device that fits the notches in the retaining ring, or print it.

(now you want links, hold on….)

Q8 modding

I finished my jig for removing the switch retaining ring, made from Plexiglas: [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] [image] The scratches were uncovered when I wiped the ring down with isop. alcohol on that paper towel - maybe shoe polish? Otherwise, no marks or damage and the ring was pretty tight in there.

Q8 modding

Well, I printed both options and discovered that the simpler one works better. The X version has to be printed upright and, as such, breaks the tips off at the layer line. I have added some more finger gripping area, and a little more room for the button in the current design, but the one flat version shown below works and I have now successfully removed one of my Q8’s button rings. [image]

3D design Q8 Button Wrench | Tinkercad

[Zulumoose]

@red72vw

Quick Question:

If my OCD just can’t stand it anymore and I have to straighten the “T”on my button, how is the retaining ring secured.

Is it a press fit or is it threaded or….?

Thanks in advance

This is how to train your OCD to behave.

1) buy a leaning tower of Pisa print
2) Have someone else hang it for you
3) don’t straighten it, because if you do, it will need straightening.
4) I said DON’T, refer to 3

[red72vw]

Thanks djozz. I’ll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You’re right scratches would be worse.

Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches.

Zulu—Yeah, I probably couldn’t have that hanging in my house. :confounded:

[Tom_E]

@red72vw

Thanks djozz. I’ll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You’re right scratches would be worse. Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches. Zulu–Yeah, I probably couldn’t have that hanging in my house. :confounded:

In addition to my hand made jig, I'm now using a 3D printed version that fits all 4 notches - works really well.

[JasonWW]

@whitecitadel

This thread’s a bit mad long now, but in case anyone missed it - your not missing a whole lot between Narsil v1 and v1.2, found the release notes:

You meant NarsilM not Narsil.

A lot of people get these confused.

[ohbreeeezy]

Holster from China took about 9 days.

[leroycp]

@Tom E

@red72vw

Thanks djozz. I’ll have to think about whether I want to attempt it. You’re right scratches would be worse. Thanks for the links. Cool looking little wrenches. Zulu—Yeah, I probably couldn’t have that hanging in my house. :confounded:

In addition to my hand made jig, I’m now using a 3D printed version that fits all 4 notches - works really well.

Anyone selling the 3D version yet?

[hank]

a 3D printed version

Sigh. I feel so behind-the-times.

[Paul321]

@ohbreeeezy

Holster from China took about 9 days.

Nice ! Please let me know (and everyone) where did you get this?

[ohbreeeezy]

@Paul321

@ohbreeeezy

Holster from China took about 9 days.

Nice ! Please let me know (and everyone) where did you get this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitecore-Holster-TM11-TM26-TM15-Tiny-Monster-Lumen-Flashlight-Holder-Accessory/182838817033?epid=882238561&hash=item2a920af109:g:ckQAAOSwDk5UI4pF

[blinker]

Thanks Tom E for post 16362

[Flintrock]

@Tom Tom

@Flintrock

I don't know how you can do polarity protection on the battery.

You are missing the point. This is about two cells or more put in opposite ways around, into a 4P torch. Consequently creating the most massive double-voltage short. You can protect against it it mechanically, with a simple plastic disc, that allows positive button-tops to contact, but blocks their flat negative bases.

@Flintrock

You can put it on the mcu, and I guess it's there, but diodes eat voltage.

It is already there, for the circuitry. A diode to protect the MCU. The FET and 7135 have to look after themselves, which they do. Surely you are familiar with the schematic by now ? And no, it eats no voltage from the main LED.

@Flintrock

or some kind of piece of metal that gets hot and melts, oh wait, yeah, that worked.

That would be the springs (assuming not bypassed). A real problem to fix for most.

Obviously I was discussing electrical solutions, and I never said the diode on the mcu eats LED voltage. A diode on each battery would. The mechanical solution sounds good.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

There’s a no-cost way that everyone can do to avoid shorting out the cells that way. I know it’s a tough one, but at the no cost price point it should be something literally everyone can do.

Pay attention when inserting cells.

It’s THE easiest way to ensure your light keeps working, time after time….

(Yes, I know, it should go without saying. Apparently it needs to be said louder and more often.) Lights like these are not toys, the danger is real. What if, and I’ve seen it before so I say this in truth, what if the spring welded itself to the cell in that sudden burst of extreme current, instead of dropping the cell out of contact? Milliseconds come into play, things get ugly really fast when the incident takes a slightly different turn…

[JasonWW]

Put some tape on the positive battery end so that you can more easily tell which end is which.

[MtnDon (Don Miller)]

@JasonWW

Put some tape on the positive battery end so that you can more easily tell which end is which.

I have used a red Sharpie marker to make a red ring around the + end of all my 30Q’s, both flat tops and button tops. I used red tape on some at first but one light had a clearance problem with the extra thickness. So I went to the marker.

[ToyKeeper]

On a lot of my electrical parts, I painted red on the positive ends. For example, part of a 4-wire power measurement device:

[hank]

Hm. Anybody make glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap for cells?

[ToyKeeper]

@hank

Hm. Anybody make glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap for cells?

I’m not sure that would make sense. When the cells need to be changed, the light source required to charge the GitD material wouldn’t be functional. So they probably wouldn’t ever glow when glowing would be useful.