You meant NarsilM not Narsil.
A lot of people get these confused.
Holster from China took about 9 days.
Anyone selling the 3D version yet?
Sigh. I feel so behind-the-times.
Nice ! Please let me know (and everyone) where did you get this?
Thanks Tom E for post 16362
Obviously I was discussing electrical solutions, and I never said the diode on the mcu eats LED voltage. A diode on each battery would. The mechanical solution sounds good.
There’s a no-cost way that everyone can do to avoid shorting out the cells that way. I know it’s a tough one, but at the no cost price point it should be something literally everyone can do.
Pay attention when inserting cells.
It’s THE easiest way to ensure your light keeps working, time after time…. 
(Yes, I know, it should go without saying. Apparently it needs to be said louder and more often.) Lights like these are not toys, the danger is real. What if, and I’ve seen it before so I say this in truth, what if the spring welded itself to the cell in that sudden burst of extreme current, instead of dropping the cell out of contact? Milliseconds come into play, things get ugly really fast when the incident takes a slightly different turn…
Put some tape on the positive battery end so that you can more easily tell which end is which.
I have used a red Sharpie marker to make a red ring around the + end of all my 30Q’s, both flat tops and button tops. I used red tape on some at first but one light had a clearance problem with the extra thickness. So I went to the marker.
On a lot of my electrical parts, I painted red on the positive ends. For example, part of a 4-wire power measurement device:
Hm. Anybody make glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap for cells?
I’m not sure that would make sense. When the cells need to be changed, the light source required to charge the GitD material wouldn’t be functional. So they probably wouldn’t ever glow when glowing would be useful.
The GID tapes I have used for assorted things do not glow unless they have been exposed to light for severalhours before it gets dark. Pretty dark inside a battery tube….
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While I agree and do promote personal responsibility in life in general, there are things that can be done to help peiple out when thoughtlessness prevails. That is not necessarily a bad thing. One example that comes to mind is the red cap that now covers the + terminal on every auto I can remember since the 90’s, maybe longer. That red cap does help prevent some accidental contact with metallic items that might otherwise produce sparks at the very least. I survived the previous decades when auto batteries did not come with those covers. The covers just remove a little bit of danger. So an insulative ring on the Q8 driver could be beneficial. Unfortunately some button top 18650’s don’t have much of a button as was illustrated in another recent thread. Nothing is perfect or 100% safe.
> glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap
Well, put just one cell in. If the light lights up, energize your shrinkwrap or take a close look at the other three cells you have in hand.
If the light doesn’t light up, swap ends on the single cell.
I keep my spare cells in a transparent plastic zipper pouch with some GITD material which is generally glowing at least somewhat from light exposure.
And also one of my spare AAA flashlights or a coin cell LED light, usually.
Wait, what? There are people who carry only ONE flashlight at a time??
In the light, a Sharpie red ring, or Toy Keeper red varnish, at the top, is a quick and useful check.
In the dark, either a standby torch to check, or some other method.
Flat button tops are almost indistinguishable by feel, at least to me.
My solder-blobbed ones are much easier to fumble the right way around. But that’s not really good enough, given the chances, and consequences, of getting just one the wrong way around.
Please take care.
Guys, where can i find the BLF Q8 logo?
Cheers David
Edit, I see in the other thread that you found it 
On the front end of the Q8 :person_facepalming: I could not resist.