There is no denying that it would be simpler to do on the front side, but there is quite a lot of room right down the middle of the tube for a spring loaded connection to the positive end. Enough room that I have printed my Joechina cheat sheet larger than he intended (75mm IIRC) and rolled it up to store in that space.
Having said that, it is an interesting thought that you could have a spare battery tube with tail PCB and cap, loaded with batteries and on charge. When it is time to load a fully charged set of cells, you unscrew the head and this ācharge capā then simply swap them.
I think most of those are designed to dry out. Theyāre meant to be very liquid when you apply them so they spread everywhere evenly. Then they dry for slightly increased performance. At least thatās what I remember reading a long time ago, back when CPU cooling was more critical.
Thanks for the reminder. Some of the marketing seems a bit less than accurate, so I put up a comment to give a bit more info about it. Kind of disorganized, but hopefully itāll help.
^ They are not dead-centered, and this amount of error was in the prototypes too and appeared to be too difficult for Thorfire to improve. Since it did not seem to affect the beam at all as far as we could see, we gave this imperfection a go.
So officially, according to the Q8 team, it is ok. But from an OCD point of view it is annoying of course.
They look "ok" to me, slightly off. What I'd do would be pop out the bezel/lens/o-ring, pop out the driver, loosen up the 3 screws (assuming you got a rev 2), and re-tighten. I usually go with tightening the center one first, then the outer ones. Might help a little with the LED centering. At least by doing this, you can see it happening, so might help how to re-tighten and get the best centering.
I'd only be concerned if the LED centering rings don't appear to be fitting in the reflector holes properly - that's usually easily fixed by loosening and re-tightening.
For what you got, sometimes the LED's aren't perfectly centered from soldering, and if so, that can be corrected, but requires further dismantling - taking out the MCPCB, cleaning it up, and using a torch applying the heat underneath carefully, and reset the LED's positioning by melting the solder and either letting them seat on their own, or give them a little nudge.
Generally I've found rev 2's better centered than rev 1's.
No FUD, and no, I didnāt recall seeing Tomās baked flashlight, which now that you mention it, I agree proves itās anodizing.
Iām not paying that close attention given the volume of comments. Glad someone is.
I wondered because I often canāt tell the difference between type 2 anodizing and paint, on flashlights generally; both coatings seem fairly easily chipped.
