[POLL] Does your recent UT01 have ON / OFF problems?

I have a recent Haikelite SC01 that has an on issue.It will just flash after clicking 3 times, taking off tailap and replacing let’s me turn it on after clicking 3 times. Currently looking for fixes related to this light. Another two Haikelite HT35 lights have switch or electronic issues. They will come on only if there is an exact amount of pressure from the tail cap to the battery. Gently pulling back on the cap as I tighten allows the light to come in. I’ve got another Haikelite MT01 that works okay but it is somewhere in the house that I cannot find it. Lol!! Ridiculous issues with Haikelite!

replacing the switch with a good one from Mouser fixed the issue

definitely the original switch produces a bounce or other thing the firmware does not detect as a click

Too bad I threw away the faulty switch without measuring its continuity or resistance

After work fine for a few days, I put the fully charged 14500 in, the light got hot with a smell of something burned inside then I changed another 14500 the light turn on by itself and can’t change mode or turn off. With Ni-Mh it can’t turn on anymore.

Open ticket to GB they offer 5$ refund or spend more 2$ for a new one :person_facepalming:

if you get a new one I may be interested in the NW for a host to try put in a Narsil driver

One NW arrived and is so far so good.
waiting on #2 before I vote.

Got mine today. No go on li ion with Windyfire. All aboard with alkaline, nimh and Efest. Maybe it just doesn’t like button top li ion.

Windyfire flat tops are the only 14500 I got. They fit.
I generally only buy unprotected flat tops. Solder-blob if needed.

Well, mine is improving, at least, so it seems.
It’s down to just a few clicks before it turns on.
So i think i’m not gonna bother opening a ticket.
None the less, it is a problem they seem to get away with (either GB or Utorch).

No, it’s not really improving, so i’m gonna open a ticket…

I have the same issue, i’ve been using a 14500 for a few weeks without issues and suddenly after switching off it can’t be switched on again. But i can turn the light on when i loosen the tailcap breaking the battery connection then the light switches on and all the modes works. With NiMh same problem. With an alkaline AA even weirder. It can’t go to high or turbo or any of the strobe modes it just shuts off completly. But with an AA alkaline i don’t have to loosen the tailcap. Very weird problem. :weary:

Well, i submitted a ticket for it.
Via email works best (for me).

I submitted a ticket and got the stock please read the warranty policy and send us a video reply. Odd given they must be aware of the issues with the light

Need a third choice …… because mine are still in the mail .
I’m going to assume they are perfect, no issue buttons …

living in denial.

nimh works fine, 14500 efest 700mah flattop does not work, sanyo 800mah does? think the 700mah is a bit flatter with a thicker wrap

Try measuring the battery lengths…mine seem to work better with the shortest batteries.

I suspect the double tail springs might be using too much interior space and perhaps keeping the tail cap from contacting the tube properly in some of the lights.

I notice my UT01 CW’s button (where the + battery makes contact) is not flat but slightly depressed/inclined, so making contact with a flat-top is intermittent, button-tops (NiMh) seem to work properly.

However, I’ve occasionally (not often yet) had the flashlight not wanting to turn off after it’s turned on — I had to unscrew the cap to turn it off. Not sure what’s the problem. This is with both the UT01 CW and NW lights (I have both).

I tried different kinds of batteries 14500, alkaline and nimh. I ordered a few of these lights currently just 1 has the problem. But then again the other ones i haven’t been using daily. Once the problem occurs it stays. All of the batteries are making good contact. Once it’s on the clicks are 100% accurate. I’m no expert but I suspect it has something to do with the voltage regulator or the low voltage protection gone haywire.

It is to be expected i.m.o. that they want a video showing the problem.
Otherwise anyone could claim a refund or resending.
I bet that happens a lot too actually…

What i’ve learned from a previous ticket, is that it works best to email to support (at) gearbest (dot com), transaction number as ‘subject’, describe the problem, attach a .mp4 video file of maximum 2MB.
I attached a 13 second 1.8MB video showing me turning the light off and trying to turn it on again.
Sending an email like that automatically opens a ticket (you’ll find it in ‘my tickets’) and avoids any upload problems you may have when you try it on the GB website.

I got a reply advising me to try some things, like cleaning the battery contacts and putting in a new battery, things like that.
I replied i tried everything but still have the problem.
Today i got a reply, they offer me to refund or resend.

But what should i choose?
Resending could mean i get another one with problems, and i bet they will be less enthusiastic about refunding or resending a 2nd time…

Thanks, well we’ll see.

Sent a video back in avi format (had to convert from my camera’s mts format) per their reply to my initial ticket

Is a dilemma for sure, I’ll try cleaning but bet that’s not the problem. When I opened the initial ticket on the website I indicated unless the issue was fixed that a refund was my preference

Jerommel, do you think this “defective UT01” video will be enough proof?

Any suggestions how to “improve” the video?

(I tested 3 batteries with a multi-tester to indicate those are good batteries, though this part took a minute or more, then the next minute I tested each battery on the UT01, which didn’t light up at all).