Cheap S2+ mods

SCNR. No adapter. This is genuine.

(It was a prototype for the clip-on-button recharge as for BD series.)

:zipper_mouth_face: , Oh, ok

Sofirn is selling the driver in their C8A/C8T torches as a standalone upgrade:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Sofirn-New-C8A-C8F-C8T-Driver-2-Groups-Circuit-Board-Anti-reverse-LED-Driver-Chip-mode/2933049_32834504322.html

That close-up picture was shot by me with the help of a 37mm (Google cardboard) convex lens atop my smartphone camera lens. With this driver current went above 6A on an XP-L HI emitter in their C8T flashlight. Steps down to low power MOSFET operation after 3:25 (205 seconds) and has moonlight mode packed together with a funny strobe in group mode 2:

Cheers :-)

I ordered 2 different 10-degree lenses from leddna. But I can’t help but wonder will my 5-degree lens be throwier? Better quality vs. narrower design. But a more important question: will a good 5/8 degree lens be better than what leddna or Simon offers? And how to find a good one?

I have the 10-degree lens from LEDDNA. came in excellent packaging, gives a good throw from an S2+ (you can “feel” the beam). they had them on sale earlier this year (not sure how much I paid).
Don’t have any results from a 5-degree lens though.

I got 21x12.5 and 20x13.5 mm for $0.40 and $0.54 respectively. I may get a third S2+ here before the lenses arrive, so I may be able to directly compare stock vs. cheap 5° vs. LEDDNA 10°, even if only by the eyes…

There are some cheap lighted tail caps from Convoy now.
DIY 1288 LED Lights Lamp Lighting Switch For Convoy C8 M1 M2 S2 S2+

DTP copper MCPCB
And you can stack 7135 to have more than 8. 10 would be 3.5+Amps, if you get copper DTP the XM-L2 can handle it.
[/quote]

Says they are no longer available.

Says they are no longer available.

They are on BG now.

Thanks.

I guess channel separation and FET mod is just too much hassle to make sense nowadays?

Also, is it worth to pot this driver?

Inspired by PFlexPro I tried to unsolder the switch with the intention of lubricating it.
I failed to do so, it still sticks to MCPCB. The plastic on the side that I tried to unsolder melted before the solder did. It is slightly retracted (0.5 mm I guess). And the switch stopped clicking, it moves up and down, but doesn’t switch like it should, always off.
Should I replace the switch with another or fix somehow?
Regardless, how should I remove it? Heat is up less, but for longer? Heat it up more, but for shorter? Don’t heat up but cut with a knife?

Switch is dead, you need a new one. Get a Genuine Omten 1288 from Simon.
Switches to do not take heat well. It changes the spring contacts inside and fail prematurely. I always remove the SW when I bypass the springs. Replace when done.

To remove I wedge a blade under one side and lift as I melt the solder. Get one contact free and melt solder on the other side. Iusually clean off the solder from board because the lumps make it harder to replace the SW. I hold the leg I am soldering with a small needle nose pliers to help sink the heat, keep it from going back into the SW

I think those are DTP actually.

Yes.
Uhm… the picture shows it, or is that a blackened S2+ which wasn’t black before?

Yeah, you can mess around with rings and what not, and then put a load of super glue in the tailcap (on the inside).
I have done a few tail caps with that SS button.
My C8 has one (inside a magnetic ring from Convoy), my Astrolux SS has one, my SS UltraFire S3 has one, and more will follow.
Those buttons are cheap at Fasttech, like $1.75 a pair.

That’s an understatement.
It’s like they’re made of butter…

Thanks for the suggestion. I have further questions….
I see that other sellers offer 1288 switches (without Omten name) for half the price. It’s not worth to risk getting junk, is it?
I also see that Simon sells beefier switches, “10A” for 50% more. I recognise that for S2+ with regulated driver they won’t make any difference. But since they are sold in batches of 10 I’d rather buy something that works great in a wide range of lights. Are those significantly better?
Also, I see KAN-9 10A switches for less that Simon’s 1288….Considering that KAN-28 did well in Djozz tests, this one should be even better and likely as good as Simon’s 10A, am I right?

These are my favourite switches:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Flashlight-reverse-switch/1572591646.html

10A switches wont fit S2+. Smallest light I could fit them is p60 solarforce.

These will:

They’re a big switch in a small package.

They are reverse clicky, and I didnt found anything about 10A rate.