FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

It was brought up,

- I read about a magnetic tail cap before.
And other stuff too

- I suggested a back and forward clipp.

- Slots for tritts

  • lanyard hole
    But you rarely hear something from the dev. team. (As I understand The Miller does more general communication)
    Not one word what they think about it.
    Also silence in the german forum.
    I find that quite frustrating.

I dont think it would be much larger.
CRX solution has the same size, for a smaller lamp.
We have a 18650
As comparison a Skilhunt H03 Magnet is
16 x 2 mm with a 0,5mm thick cap on it

If we want it super sticky we can go with 3 or 4mm thicknes.

From the drawing, there is the switch cover missing, but I guess 1 to 2mm is needed.

If the lamp is 4-5mm longer and I can chose between a magnetic and non magnetic tail without altering the length and optic I would go with 5mm more.

Hi, if you look at the cross section of the light you see that itā€™s not easy to put a magnet under the switch. The actual switch would need to have to parts of you donā€™t want the magnet to be visible from the outside.

Regarding the slots for tritium vitals - most of the buyers would probably not use the slots, so I think itā€™s a better solution to see if one of the modding guys here can come up with a switch that has tritium slots milled in.

Also, the design is pretty much decided on right now. The clip is as it was designed but weā€™ll look into the possibility to make it mountable between head and body as well if it does not bring any significant design changes to the design.

Interested in one.

About muggle mode, there seem to be three ideas floating around:

  1. Single-mode on/off at ~150 lm. (already implemented)
  2. Idea #1, but add hold-to-ramp from ~5 lm to ~300 lm.
  3. Clicks cycle through 2-3 levels like a common cheap light. Order/spacing not yet determined.

To exit muggle mode, itā€™s currently ā€œloosen+tighten the tubeā€.

Fortunately, a factory reset shouldnā€™t be needed. It might be possible since itā€™s a thing people seem to like, but the settings arenā€™t particularly botchable.

However, it occurs to me that loosening the tube will also physically disconnect the buttonā€¦ and when tightening the tube there may be no way to ensure that the button will connect before power. So, it may be a good idea to avoid anything which involves button-press detection at boot, and anything which involves clicking the button while power is disconnected.

The Miller, I only see myself on the list for one. Can you please add me for a second (two total) when you get a chance? Gotta have one to give my dad :slight_smile: Thanks!

Please put me on the list :slight_smile:

Could you add me to buy one please?
Thanks!

Please add me to the list.

Please add me to the list.

Please add me to the list

I like the idea of Muggle mode being single mode off and on (and more accessible than going into programming settings) and Muggle friendly mode groups and configurable ramping seems ideal if itā€™s going to be a gift.

Please add me to the list!

Can somebody help me decide: This or the D4? I like the D4ā€™s look, but are there any benefits the FW3A has compared to the D4?

It is even smaller and a bit more lightweight. The user interface is a bit more advanced too (newest Narsil).

The D4 is pretty conventional.

This light has a rather unique rear mounted e switch using an inner tube to make contact. So itā€™s pretty unusual. I like the uniqueness.

The FW3A comes with a pocket clip. The D4 requires modā€™ to get one on it. Itā€™s my biggest gripe with the D4. Small EDC pocket lights require a clip and need to have it designed in, not added as a kludge add-on. Itā€™s aggravating when a light can be so good yet miss something so simple.

The FW3A is far more cost effective at 1/2 the price of the D4.

Why not get the D4 now and the FW3A later?

please put me on the list, I couldnā€™t resistā€¦ā€¦
(for 2 lights, plz!)

The problem with muggle mode for gifted lights is that they will revert back to the standard Narsil after a battery change.

The solution is easy. A few minutes to explain how the light works. Heck, Narsil isnā€™t difficult. If someone canā€™t grasp it they probably should hand the light to someone capable of understanding the extremely simple UI to keep them out of trouble.

Thatā€™s why there are junk lights in the hardware store. For folks like that.