Sofirn SP10B - Anyone?

I’m sorry Swampus, but I have to disagree concerning the modes. Although I don’t read chinese, the diagram of both lights is quite different!
Take a look M5 on the left, M3 on the right:

Seeing these, they don’t have the same UI! Not at all. M5 seems to have Low > High > OFF + Strobe (double click, maybe?). M3 has lots of regular and special modes!

You are correct. I tried to link directly to their website yesterday, but couldn’t get it to come up.

http://otrlight.com/M5

I trusted my memory too much on that one. Maybe I was looking at the M6.

can sp10b take protected 14500?

From another post, in another thread about the SP10A, AgentSteel said this about batteries in the SP10A:

So, my guess is that some protected fit, while others don’t fit! Even some Ni-MH may not fit, as on my SF14. The battery tubes are identical (a “defective” first batch), so it may depend a little

So far I didn’t see a review on the SP10B, I guess some of us are getting them on the next days/weeks. But my guess is that it will be the same as SP10A, as the hosts are the same, only the driver changes :+1:

Tracy, do you think it would be possible to make the tail switch from the SF14 available for purchase on Ali Express? It would be nice to have a couple of extras for occasional use on the SP10B and even the Utorch UT01. [Edit: This provides no additional functionality, but can be used to turn these lights off and then serve as a mechanical lock-out until next use. For me, though, the greater appeal is that the SF14 switch adds a few millimeters of length that makes the side-switch lights a little more comfortable to hold. That, of course, is subjective, but when my thumb is on the switch, I sometimes feel like I want a little more flashlight left over in the palm of my hand.]

Also, it would be nice to be able to order an extra pocket clip or two.

I see that the SP10A and SP10B boards are both available in the parts section now. That’s great!

I second this.

If you want to order an extra pocket clip, please feel free to contact sales service before you finish the order. :slight_smile:

Thank you, Tracy Wan. I’ll keep that in mind when I order from your stores. Can this be done with other parts like tail caps and switches?

Hi Jaded,

Sorry for the late reply.
If you have any problem or question, please feel free to contact the sales service whether on AliExpress or Amazon. They will help you do their best.

Have a good time on BLF

Currently it is listed as having Low Voltage Protection only for 14500 cells. It would be nice to have LVP feature for NiMH cells too, or have an easy accessible battery level indicator function.

Just received my Sofirn SP 10b today and have been playing with it . Removed the head and the threads were very rough and gritty but lube took care of that . Tail threads were better . Very bright output with 14500 . Seems as bright as my Convoy S2+ 6x7135 and Jet 1MK . S2+ slightly more floody . All about equal in throw . $12 well spent .

Found any problems yet? or things you didn’t like other than the thread?

No problems . Just getting used to the switch is a little difficult . A long click turns the light off usually except from strobe and turbo mode if accessed from off . In those cases , a short click turns it off . Another thing I need to learn is when on the lowest setting I sometimes think it is off and think the switch is not working properly . Why do people desire such low settings I don’t know . Not for me . Being older, I would rather simple L,M,H,Off or even just L,H,Off . Just me though .YMMV. When I first put the 14500 in and turned on turbo , it was flickering . Tightening the caps stopped this although I did not feel they where loose . No spring in the front . Over all : B+ .

Same here, I don’t find any use for Moonlight/Firefly mode, would be glad if I could get rid of it.
.
What’s your opinion about this -vs Utorch UT01, which would you prefer?

I only know what I have been reading here . Seem to be unloading some known bad switches .

I just got a (red) SF10b. My main motivation was finding a more reliable alternative than the UT01 — my first UT01 doesn’t work with 14500, the second does — to recommend or give as gifts.

I’m not sure how I feel about the UI. It is certainly taking me some getting used now that I’m familiar with the UT01.

I was hoping it would be a better UI for ‘muggles,’ but I’m not sure it is.

The long press to turn on and off seems a little too long. More than once, I’ve ended up in moon when I thought I’ve turned it off. Also, the fact that it takes a short press to turn off after entering Turbo with a double-click from off is odd, and seems like an accident. I like the lockout, but I’d rather have it on three clicks, and flashing modes on four clicks.

Turbo isn’t as bright as the UT01, but the beam is more throwy.

Build quality is good. I like the metal button, but it’s a little harder to find by feel, or maybe I just need to be feeling for something else (like the depressions on either side). The tail cap spring is pretty thin. I’ll try a bypass.

I personally find moonlight mode useful.

Overall, it’s a good light and I think it will make a good gift light. The only thing I’d really ask for is a brighter turbo, for more WOW.

Is it possible to mod this light? have you taken a look at it’s driver yet?

Just a little follow-up. After playing with my UT01 and SP10b, I note that while the 10b seems to have more throw at a given output level, the higher output of the UT01 means that it is at least as effective at illuminating distant objects — at the cost of some runtime, I assume.

I’d love a SP10c with output closer to that of a UT01.

Looks like they updated Sofirn SP10A on 15 December with the same driver SP10B uses. So basically both of them A and B are now the same. :confounded:

No idea about resistor modding the driver. However I did mod one of these yesterday.

  • Driver is 17mm. I replaced it with a Mountain Electronics 17mm driver with Emisar D4 UI.
  • I kept the switch. Chopped up the stock driver and salvaged the switch. Glued it to the new driver with arctic alumina and a plastic support strut.
  • Replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon.
  • Added a thin metal ring around the switch button. Cut from 0.025” aluminum sheet and then filed down into shape. This turns the raised button into a flush button. Risk of accidental pocket activation is much less.

Overall fairly happy with the mod. For a side-switch mod, not too hard and the light is now much brighter with a better UI. Now only runs on 14500 though.

Some other observations from a modder perspective:

  • The metal switch boot has a rubber seal underneath. This is all held to the inside of the head with the metal switch retaining ring. This is good as the light remains waterproof even if you change the switch on the driver.
  • The driver is 17mm and is held in place with a reverse-threaded retaining ring. There are slots on either side to prevent the driver from turning. On the stock driver, the piece with the switch on it fits those slots. For a my modded driver I cut a small section of large paperclip, then filed a notch in the right side of the driver and soldered it into place. Because of the retaining ring having something keeping the driver from rotating is a good idea.
  • The star is thin aluminum and about 14mm in diameter. The stock emitter and star won’t stand up to a FET driver and IMR cell.