I know, just posted an example of NCR18650B’s that works in my Q8 without problems. A little less light than 30Qs, but longer runtime.
I wonder what happened in the second Q8…. while problems with switch LEDs were happening already (though I got Q8 from the second batch, after September production stop), the delay in mode switch is pretty strange.
I’m not sure what happened, but one of the cells was dead after the test (reading 0.8V right now and dropping). They are new flat top GAs, but I haven’t had any issues with uneven drain. The light did get rather hot.
I had some liitokalas failing sone moths ago , out of the blue . They just turned 0.1V after one or two days after they were charged . One of them was inside a light (not a parasitic drain issue) , the other not . Still a mystery what happened…
The flat top 30Q’s that I had worked in my 2 Q8’s even before I soldered some 14 gauge wire (bent into a small circle) to the top of them. The only reason I added the wires was that I was concerned that the wrapping would be ripped off the top of the batteries when the body was screwed down. Solder blobs work just as well but I like the look of the wires so that’s what I always add to the flat top’s to raise them.
I made a diffuser out of a sauce bottle. After you cut the top off is is a push fit. Big W and Spotlight carry these in Australia. I also put a small convex blind spot
mirror in the bottom to block light from going straight out the end, and reflect it downwards and outwards.
"We call it “battery drain.” Prior to an investigation, we always check our batteries to make sure they’re fully charged. Sometimes though, we’ll discover that our new batteries become instantly drained the minute we walk into a haunted establishment.
Many enthusiasts feel this is a ghost’s way of powering up. They will drain the batteries, and sometimes even the energy of the investigators themselves, in order to communicate or manifest. After living in a haunted house for 13 years, I can tell you that there is some validity to this theory."
Hhmm. Might have triggered a safety cutoff. Think I heard/read even unprotected cells have some built-in safety circuitry. You might be able to "wake it up" by applying some juice to it - cheaper chargers can do it as well. Same way we can wake up a dead protected cell when the low voltage of the PC trips.
Hmm… The Miller had been handling support issues, which gives us significantly better results than a random tier-one support agent who doesn’t know much about the product… but he has been too busy lately so I’m not sure. Is anyone else in the project able to help?
I’ve done more tests with my protected NCR18650Bs (from LiitoKala official store/AliExpress) — I only did in 2 samples though, so I’m not sure if there might be a difference.
It appears to turn on (at least for several seconds — not shutting down — I didn’t test for longer periods of time) at up to 5.70A. Then when reaching 6.1A it shuts off. So it appears the protection circuit trips somewhere between 5.70A-6.10A — is this an OK value?)
Made a video here using the Astrolux S41S (quad-Nichia) as test subject, and my 18650s on hand (I freshly charged all the 18650s prior to the test to get highest current draw on Turbo mode; although my test setup isn’t that good…):
It appears the S41S 4xNichia can draw over 11 or 12A with a freshly charged INR18650-30Q (at least the first few seconds, fresh from charger)…
Around how much current does the BLF Q8’s 4x XP-L HD drain at Turbo mode? (Does 4xNichia219 [not sure if Astrolux S41S s 219B or 219C] drain more than 4xXP-L?)
Button light sometimes flicker and fade. Though for now it works good for 24 hours… Possibly only on voltage ~4,2? Will check it.
Rarely there is a delay between button press and mode switching.
I have 4 protected Panasonic 18650Bs I bought from Banggood last year that I ran for hours in my 2 Q8’s without issues. But of course there’s no way to tell which protection circuit is in them.