UltraFire SRK - 2017 new generation

One of my favorite ” user” MT-G2 flashlights is an original Ultrafire M-51. Its quality built and with a fit & finish on par with top name brand lights. Sadly over the years the Ultrafire name got trashed by all the junk clones and copies.

Looking at your picture teacher with the wire in it I’d say it could be a piece of swarf from machining, that is if its aluminium.

That is what I was kinda thinking too…. except for the fact that it is perfectly round and the ends are square cut. ?? That is what makes me wonder?? :slight_smile:

Sorry, missed these postings. 18sixfifty - real good to see you back around! Haven't seen you post much. That 9X mod sure looks sic!! I'd do something like that. Figure 8-10K lumens?

teacher - weird that I got a different/better ring setup in the 6X bought recently then what you got in the 7X and 9X. Odds are bad, evens are good I guess...

I've made mine own up with a brass ring, reflow them to the PCB driver - did this on the 16X light with a HQ OSHPark board:

Thanks Tom, nice to be back around. It’s been a while. Yeah that light’s a beast and 8 to 10 is about right depending on the batteries of course. I just sold it but I have more. LOL I tend to run it with standard amp good quality batteries because the high amp ones are just overkill. Fun to see what it can do but for actually using it daily, the regular batteries are probably better.

I also run a zenor mod on these because I have fried drivers before with high amp batteries when I didn’t. In fact I tend to use the zenor on all my multi-emitter lights, whether I’m using batteries in series or parallel. Maybe I don’t need to but it’s not much more money and I’m more comfortable knowing it’s in there. I usually pot the driver as well once it’s all set and running the way I want. Those low resistance FETS hate getting too hot, I bet I’ve killed two dozen of them. Half of those I’ve killed just soldering wires and springs on them. I’ve learned to be careful and give them time to cool down before I solder on the next wire or spring.

That's interesting. The SIR800DP and SIR404DP take the amps really really well - no heat issues at all. I've used probably a couple dozen of the 800's without a hitch. I got a couple Infineon FET's in I didn't even try yet, and it might do even better than the 404. What FET's are you using? Also, do you use the zener with an e-switch driver? If so, the parasitic drain is quite high. I got my e-switch lights (Attiny85/Narsil w/smooth ramping) running with a parasitic drain of like 0.023 mA (23 uA), which will literally last for like 20+ years in a SRK.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nexperia-usa-inc/PSMN2R0-30YLDX/1727-2218-1-ND/5285448

I think this is the FET I put in this light but I’m not 100% positive. And yep, the parasitic drain is pretty high. This light locks out with just a half a turn so at least that part is easy, so long as I remember to do it. I’ll have to check out the Attiny85/Narsil and see how that’s done for my next build. I’ve got a big old wonking 18x plunger light with a side switch that takes 5x32650’s but no tailcap switch at all. It would be great to have a driver in it with less parasitic drain. I’m actually only running 15 emitters on it (5s3p), but talk about a lumen monster.

That's the FET Richard sells, and the FET we are going to use in the BLF Q8.

I got this light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_227307.html converted to 16 XHP50's. Measured 37.5K lumens. Same thing - e-switch, no tail switch. It's a FET+1, but the 7135 doesn't handle the load well - 1st one died, 2nd one survived but is not working reliably. I'll be modding Narsil to support just one channel - the FET, than the issues should go away. I'm using the SIR404DP FET in that one.

Custom aluminum plate made for this light:

Custom tool to open the head:

It's not ideal for modding - driver must be accessed from the top, not secured from the bottom, therefore the shelf must be removable, and it's a nasty flat bottom reflector...

All 46 pics here: http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Custom%20Mods/16X%20S88%20clone

Thanks for the review Tom! I was eyeing one of these out wondering how they are inside.

I think some of these lights are being made by Solarstorm the design looks like there’s.

Holy Smokes! That’s awesome.

For that beast, much rather have 2S4P then 2S3P, and would love 8 20700A SANYO cells for it, but they are bout impossible to find right now, then also a custom built battery tube handle would have to be made. The VTC5A cell is the 2nd best, but lower capacity, after that, maybe the VTC6 cell.

I had noticed that Tom and forgot to mention it. The ring setup on your ‘6’ looks just like the one on my ‘4’.
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Driver raised Batt ring+

  • My UF-4 pic on left ……. Tom E’s UF-6 pic on right
    .

    ———-
    ————-

Now THAT…… is a ring!! :+1:

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention…. the reports that these had shelves was not correct. Mitko reported they did NOT have shelves since he had been buying them. I have corrected that in THIS POST above.

Hi you don’t happen to have a thread or any more info on this build? Info on the S88 (or 16T6 as its been advertised on Australian Ebay) is hard to find!!! This is the 1st I’ve found in days of searching.

I know I posted more info somewhere on it, but no, no dedicated thread. It's slipping away into discontinued oblivion.

This is a sweet deal, says in stock: https://www.fasttech.com/product/4173002 at $63, maybe a BLF disacount as well? Yes - $60 applying "BLF" code.

Thanks for the response Tome E. I’ve found a few for sale on BG and eBay. I’ve got one coming. It had enough room in the head for 6 xhp70s with 30mm lenses but after seeing your posts with 16x xhp50 set up I’m thinking I might follow your lead. Just wondering if you got the driver working for it yet? OR do you know of a driver that can handle 5 or 6 xhp70s?

I need it as a back up for a large 12 x 100w cob light I use for night surfing I have an xhp70s bike light modded for a helmet torch that I use in the surf. If other people surf with me with no inboard light sore and the low voltage protection circuit for the lips on the main light goes out I want to be able to get out of the water and be able to grab a high out put torch to aid them back to shore from the surf zone.

Ohh, it's working pretty well now - no more fried 7135's. Haven't had much time to spend on it and not used much, but for the somewhat unreliable blinks, like voltage level, I modified the firmware to use a low PWM value on the FET instead of the 7135 and works much better.

If I wanted it 100% reliable, I'd use only the FET as a single channel configuration, then all the problems should go away.

Did your light come with the rubber oring between the glass and the reflector or between the glass and the silver bezel?

Also what do you think about stacking a whole load of 7135’s on this board to run the 16xXHP50’s?

Im talking about pushing 48A on turbo though this driver with 32 x 4 stacks of 7135;s

16 x XHP50 @ 3.04amps per led = 48.64A = 128 x 7135 0.380mA?

Can the driver handle the current? or would it be better to use 2 drivers stacked with stand offs and put 64 x 7135’s on each board?
Im not looking to break records, just as much reliable constant brightness as possible.

Ahhh, sorry, at work now - pretty sure it came with a white or clear colored o-ring, yes, think it goes between the glass and reflector.

My initial reaction I'd say stacking 7135's for this light is a bad idea. It killed a couple of the single 7135's I used on one output channel. Now, maybe it will be more stable with a bank of 7135's - I have no idea. Would be great to get DEL's opinion on this, or someone else that knows a lot more than I do as an EE. 7135's are being pushed with 2S batteries, probably beyond the specs of the part. Other modders have had the same problem. I think with the 16X LED's, the problem worsens.

Stacking 7135's is pretty well proven now to be problematic - they overheat, but this depends on the PCB driver design. You need a really good ground path, full pads, etc., because the ground path is the heat path. Ol-lumens was the first one I know of that knew of the 7135 stacked heat problems and in more later of his mods, he used external 7135 boards with heat sinks.

Hello all, Im new here, sorry to revive such an old thread, please let me know if I should just start a new one. Any suggestions on a good site for public photo upload? currently everything is in Google Photos and embed function wasn’t a concern for them from what I’ve read.

Anywho, mine varies in the following ways:

a set of 12x (supposed) Cree XML T6s in Parallel

No lock ring on the underside, instead I got JB weld which I broke through today.

a microcontroller without a top mark

a TP4056 micro usb charging circuit built in

If I find a site before I get a response I’ll post pics of the before and after, link to the actual light is in my description, it took FOREVER for me to find anything even remotely close in PCB design, I assume its DD at this point for High mode and secondaries are something else?

You guys rock I’ve been reading and learning a lot from you all.

Thoughts and opinions?