ME4056 Tiny charge board similar to TP4056

Looks like an adequately sized heat sink… :wink:

Nice. Looks like you’ve already sanded that one down a little, what size do you think is possible to take the board down to - 10mm x 8mm or less?

Just nipped the corners a bit, mostly at the wire holes.
I don’t see much to take off the side for width, but certainly could cut off the wire holes and go direct to components. And I may have to do that. I think minimum would be 9mmX9.5mm

I tried to cut off the wire connection holes to reduce size even more. Well, I failed to see that the holes are via’s to the other side for some components. Don’t do it board will not work unless modded further.

Thanks for the heads up vwpieces. All good info. :+1:

vwpieces, have you tried connecting up off the board indicator led’s?

Not yet but my intentions were to remove the red from board and ad it to my SW board. And Still keep one green on all time to illuminate SW button.
Some quick probing… I do not think I will be able to relocate the red to my SW board with a single wire, common ground. I believe I will need 2 wires to it to get full function indicator red relocated.
I think that is what you are asking?

Yes, that is more or less what I was wondering. As well as simply running wires to a non-smd type led.

I need to take time and do some smd component install and removals now that I have a hot air unit. Maybe play with led colors or resistor values on a Q8 switch board. Have to start somewhere. :stuck_out_tongue:

I added more to the previous post…

Be careful heating the SW. :smiley: Got spares?
Do you have an L6? The L6 SW board has provisions for SMD LEDs. Cool project to ad some to it, but you will need an inline resistor. No provisions for resistor.
I like lighted tails too. But the Lexel design SW boards for Q8 should fit L6 too.
Saw your new station, I like it.
No hot air station here. I just use a wide tip with a blob and wipe from the side, wick excess solder off pads and pen flux (helps stick down component mostly). Change to small tip to re install, holding component down with pointy tweezers. All under a 6X lighted magnifier.

No L6. I have some old assorted boards, a couple of drivers with s-o-s blinkies I swapped out… remove and replace a 7135 or something for practice. Also some TP4056’s I could RdR smd led’s.

I should get a stronger magnifier I think. Mine’s maybe a 2-1/2X

Finished the Clone M3 using the ME4056 charger board and magnetic connector.
Here is a link to some pics and quick over view.

Mentioned earlier that the board may not turn on until the 80% 3.6-3.7V. Not the case, it charges every time I plug it in if the battery is not fully charged.
Perhaps that only pertains to a fixed constant 5V supply or there is way to trigger it that I am not aware of.

I have some ME4056 boards coming. I’ll run some tests with almost full (3.9-4.0 volt) cells. Might be a week or so still.

Some discussion on the S42 getting revamped drivers with Narsil and keeping the charge circuit. Going to suggest a look at this chip to integrate.
I am getting 0.350mA drain on the Clone with one green LED on the SW button.
The charge board seem to go to sleep, pretty well, undetectable.

That’s cool Don. Would like to see your input.

Forgot until now, but I held up some 0000 steel wool to the magnetic charge connector on the light, NO Fires

What about on the cable?

Is the magnet on the cable or the light?

I’ve been sceptical of those magnetic connectors.

Both the cable and port on light are magnetic.

Asking if the cable will start a fire is a Loaded question. Unplugged, No.
An AAA battery will start 0000 steel wool on fire. It’s a power source.
If the cable does or doesn’t start a fire while plugged into power would depend on the power supply You choose to use. Neither the charge board (thread topic) or the cable came supplied with a power adapter.
All the AC power adapters I have will shut off the LED (kill power) on cable if the cable magnet gets stuck to bare metal and a direct short. That is good enough for me.
Car adapters will be checked next for direct short, to make sure if the cable gets stuck to a seat frame, the adapter will shut down power supply.
I don’t use power banks.

Nice little PCB :+1:

Ooh, they have all kinds of those little boards.
Nice.

Loaded question? Like a negative or trick question? No, I was asking about the safety aspect. Like if I had it in my car and the cable were to drop on the floor and grab onto the seat frame. I wouldn’t want it to short out or be ruined.

The light having a magnet also is something I don’t like. It might get things sticking to the light, like powdered metal, keys, etc… or even damage something magnetic next to it like a credit card or something.

Why do you like it so much over the regular micro usb port?

Maybe this style of magnetic port would be better? I think the small side is just metal with the magnet side on the cable. Maybe it’s too wide?

It could be glued into place and sealed up on the light.

I have no idea what you may want to plug the cable it into. How can I answer that? My mind went 1000 different ways when I thought about it.

The clip on my Clone covers the connector. Nothing really sticks to the magnet, by itself, the magnet on the port is not that strong. But it is a strong connection when both the magnets are connected. If metal shavings or dust get on the connector I can use the tail magnet, that is stronger, to remove the debris.
I completely removed the micro USB from the connector backing and from the light. This connector is pretty much bombproof and Waterproof.

The above connector you show has Data and charge. I chose the small 8mm round power only for the size. The small size, charge only are getting hard to find.

Also on that connector you shown in pic. It may have opposite polarity magnets on each side. In my searches I saw a vid where the cable would flip 180* to get correct pin connection. From 6in away, it would flip and connect itself. They are really neat IMO for super easy connection while driving. But unless you can find one that is a perfect fit to your phones shape and contours, you may cause more harm than good to the connection port on phone. In a purse it may be fine but not in my pocket. Even the little 8mm one I have did not fit to my phone to my liking. It really looks like that pic is edited, proportions just do not look right. I seriously doubt there is a phone out there that connector would fit so seamlessly to.