Olight S1 Mini teardown

Can you post a pic with the lens face down taken from above and to the side?

So I’ve done a couple of test, with different emitters :

219 B : Beautiful beam, no artifact

219C : beautiful beam, no artifact

XP-L HI : beautiful beam, no artifact

Oslon square : beautiful beam, no artifact, narrowest beam (due to smaller emitter surface)

I’ll go with a 219C :slight_smile:

Thanks for the tests! Now, where can I send my S1 Mini to be improved? :wink:

Outstanding! Thanks :slight_smile:
I will take a CuSMini with the High CRI TIR and N219b 4500k 9080 please… where do I send the check?:wink:

Well… I’m still stuck with a non working S1 Mini, so I can’t make any promise but we’ll see how I can make it work :wink:

If only we could source this new TIR alone…

Can’t see a second image, just a “no” icon. Was it an overhead from an angle (in stead of straight nine onto back? If so can you repost?

Oof, I was hoping it would not be so troublesome to mod this.

So I managed to fry the driver… don’t know how, but it doesn’t work anymore.
I opened my S Mini Ti (my EDC), dropped the XP board from S1 Mini with a 219C reflowed on it, put the new frosted XP TIR and have now the pefect EDC.
Nichia tint, Olight UI !

Congrats!
jealous with admiration
When can I get one in Copper?:slight_smile:

You and maukka gave me such low expectations for this light that it turns out to be not as bad as I thought! Still disappointing, but not as much as it would have been otherwise. Do you think you will be able to come up with a non-fatal way to mod this?

Perfect!
I ordered a Copper Smini, now I just want to wait for a sale on the High CRI donor… :slight_smile:
Im not sure I can resist long enough…

The only way to know is to accept the sacrifice of my second one…
That will come, because I ate the CW tint anyway and I don’t see me selling it…
To be continued, but i need a pause because frying the driver was a bit heart breaking :cry:

I wonder what it would take to get Olight to make an aluminum S Mini (not S1 Mini) with the S1 Mini’s frosted TIR, 4500K-4750K Nichia 219 high-CRI emitter, and my Anduril firmware.

(probably also no CR123A support, only 16340, could even come with the same cell as the S1 Mini)

What is the difference between the S Mini and S1 Mini?

-S1 Mini is aluminium, S Mini is copper or titanium.
-S1 Mini has a tailcap magnet
-S1 Mini comes with a usb rechargeable 16340
-S1 Mini has a dual way pocket clip
-S1 Mini has a battery/lock indicator on the side switch
-S1 Mini is a fraction of a mm shorter
-S1 Mini has a marginally higher output (640 vs 580 lm in my testing)

I like the clip on the S Mini better than the bigger 2-way clip on the newer model, and I like the old square knurling design more than the staggered lines. It’s a bit longer, but the extra length at the front goes toward protecting the optic. I also kinda prefer it without the magnet, though I don’t care much either way.

The things I like more about the S1 Mini are the lighted button, the choice of two different optics, and the low-battery detection (finally). It’s also nice being able to get it in aluminum, which is generally cheaper and has a good balance of weight and thermal properties.

They’re already good, but it would be nice to combine the best parts of both and upgrade a few other things…

thanks for the answers

We need a special BLF edition:

- a deeper bezel to protect the optic with two little notches for easier disassembly

- two clips to choose

  • two tailcaps to choose

I would vote for the new knurling

any new developments that could lead my Olight Copper S Mini to Nichia Nirvana?
or is Sacrificing an Olight S1 Mini High CRI, still the OnlyWay to Enlightenment?

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I got an S1 Mini cheaply and am itching to take it apart. I have a question and an observation.

First, Yajiamei 17mm TIRs fit in an S Mini; I’d assume they will also fit in an S1 Mini. I suggest the 20° Beaded as the smooth versions project a square.

Second, does drilling/breaking out the optic seem like a viable way to get into the S1 Mini without risking the switch and driver? You’d still have to figure out a way to pry the retaining ring loose, but you could do that on the ring itself and work from the back where scratches would be hidden.