I don’t understand duv, yet, but, I can see that the Greens (R3, R4, R5 and R11) are taller than the Red, Yellow, and Pink (R9, R10, R13), on the Green tinted Oslon… while on the Pink tinted Nichia the Red, Yellow and Pink bars are not shorter than the Green bars…
images clipped from maukka’s plots
looking at the relative size of the red vs green bars, I would expect all these LEDs to have a green tint
and they do: (pic is from, and is a link, to maukka’s review)
Simply said Duv is how far off the tint of tested LED from the BBL (0 - 4500K) or SBL (5000 - 10000K). BTW, is there such a term as Sun Body locus? this is just my own word.
From my understanding looking at Maukka’s chart: 0,0055 means the tint is lower than BBL while 0,0093 means the tint is higher than BBL/SBL. By carefully looking at his charts, I think it’s safe to conclude anything beyond 0,004 or 0,004 is considered too far from the reference line (BBL/SBL). This aligns very well to 219B sw45k (miss piggy tint) and Oslon (kermitt tint) facts.
We’ll be very grateful to see your test results then. My personal request is how far can we trim the blue spike. Also how the minus blue spike filter affects CRI.
Lee offered a free small swatch colour sample, it consists of hundreds of its colour gel filter. Each sample is enough for two small flashlights. Just contact your local representative marketing. I lost my colour swatch in the project site. I’ll need to order another
Considering that a perfect redendering index score happens when the different wavelenght's relative outputs follow whatever given temperature pattern/curve shape, I guess we could even fine tune (maximize) the CRI and tint out of any good CRI emitter with a custom tailored filter.