The SS and the C8 are without centring gasket because they’re for a lighted switch.
In both cases light can also pass through around the buttons.
Maybe i’ll show you later.
Ok, but how is it possible to remove them if you use super glue?
Also in this thread they’re mentioning metal clicky S2+’s have a bit more tail length to accommodate the metal switch. Do you have any problems fitting metal clicky into shorter tails?
I don’t know why i would want to remove them, but with force and / or some heat i think you could remove them.
I can work around that.
The SME and the S3 have no PCB between the switch and the spring.
In the S3 i even put an Omten 1288 switch inside the retainer ring.
Again, super glue to put the spring on the bottom of the switch. Bypass wire to connect the spring to the switch.
I also raise the buttons as far as possible so that the lights can still tail stand (that’s the first step).
The C8 and the SS have enough space inside.
After swapping in a DrJones H17F driver I am mostly happy with my desert sand S2+. The only improvement I’d wish for is bi-directional mode switching. Unfortunately the driver is over $10.
OK, my Convoy switches arrived today.
First look: I need to cut the legs to make them fit. But then the size is perfect.
Then I opened one to get it lubed. Result: it came lubed already. The internals are way beefier too.
Then I soldered it, success, not melted this time.
The circular part is too large to fit the cap holder ring, I increased the ring opening somewhat….and the switch works.
The spring is much stiffer than the stock one, so it needs more force than stock despite lubing. Makes much lower sound when clicking, I like it.