New flashlight modder (hopefully), needing some general advice!

Can’t help ya though.
But I think sticker shock will follow.
I just use solder tabs. Use a high watt iron and be QUICK. Allow to cool if you need a second try. Put Kapton tape under the tabs, on the edge of batt (Pos side) for safety.

Great tips, thanks!! Need more tips like this if anybody wants to share! Got the IR thermometer already, those things are awesome, so useful!

No prob, thanks for the reply!
Yea, i’ve looked at prices. Sticker shock did follow lol. It will def. only be bought if I pursue building battery packs heavily (quite possible but not presently).

Thanks for the tips! I was figuring something like that would work fine if you paid close attention.

Does anyone do home anodizing? Got any tips for that?

Suggestions for diamond jewelers files?

Which thermal pastes/adhesives do BLFer’s like? If its a brand with more than one type can you specify which one?

Potting Compounds?

Potting:

Thermal adhesives:
Fujik (bad but often good enough, cheap), Arctic Alumina (good, expensive)

Thermal Paste:
Arctic MX-4 is recommended often
Overclockers’ pastes are mentioned often too
Recently I bought GD900 and I think it’s a good choice for cheap lights.
Liquid metal is the top pick for copper lights, but destroys alu ones

I’d like to see a file set recommendation too.

I use Arctic alumina for thermal adhesive for thing I need a better bond.

MX4 (Computer thermal paste) for thermal paste under emitter MCPCB to aluminum pills. If I use a brass pill I usually solder the MCPCB to the brass.

Also got some generic silicone thermal Plaster. Used that in the TIP around the reflector before assembly.

Never bought diamond files, have a couple sets of the 12pk generic jewelers files for fine work and various other smaller Nicholson files that can be had at the Orange store. Wet/dry variety of grits 220-2000 and red scotchbrite are must have on my bench.

I bought this S Mini Black Copper with intentions to expose the high spots of copper. What I did not expect was the nickel plating between the black and copper. I had to hand file the entire surface to expose copper and sand it out after. Turned out good but took 4X longer than I anticipated.
You can see the transition of the layers at the side of the SW in this pic.

This is bomber!!! Thanks!!!

I mess with building my own firearms too. One way to reapply a finish to aluminum is to Lead electroplate and dye it after. Some good vids on YT.
Sig 229 Build - 3 - Anodizing the Frame

That channel has some other good vids on surface finishes. Many other coatings from firearms can be used on our lights too. There was also a big thread on here about Powder Coating and heat transfer.

Of course the most popular way to strip Anno is Lye, Sodium Hydroxide. I have done many lights and usually polish them after. I have had several discussion how I do it but I do not think there is a dedicated thread.

Bummer that it took longer than you alotted, but i think it looks awesome! Great job :+1:

Excellent suggestions as well!! Thank you!

I agree on different grits in several media on the workbench as well as some good polish (flitz or similiar), and a Dremel of course! The diamond files are awesome! I’ve got several bigger ones and one on my Leatherman Charge ALX. They cut fast and last a long time! I’ve also switched all my blade/tool sharpening kit to diamond stones and rods in various sizes and grits and it makes a world of difference! I recommend DMT for that type of stuff but the jewelers files are something i haven’t acquired yet.

Thanks for this!! I do love me some Sigs! Been trying to save up for a P227 but something always comes up. Thought about grabbing a raw s2+ host to experiment on, might have to snag a raw AR lower to tinker with as well.

Dedicated thread would be nice!! You should do it and share your experiences!!

As I am making or building something, taking pics, stopping for what ever else involved ruins concentration or looses focus. I can forget what I am doing, or stray off to another tangent on my own, no help needed. Just not organized enough and the amount of time to do it would take me is much longer than most.

I prefer CZ myself or a good hand built 1911. After too many disappointments from top brands I just started building my own. Plus buying parts as I can afford them makes it happen when I cant shell out the bucks at one shot. Too many toys and interests keep me broke.

The silver Convoy’s are still anodize and you will have to strip them. The silver BLF/Astrolux S1/A6 is raw.

Some of my Jewelers files could use replacements so I am certainly interested in investing in some of the diamond variety of good quality.

My standard for torches I make are that the walls are at least .050” thick (1.27mm). The Surefire 6P’s are thick enough to support boring out to 18mm. With the E-series, and A-series, the o-ring groove at the head gets dreadfully thin if they are bored to 18mm. I have done it, but really, really difficult to get the boring operation lined up perfectly with the tube ID.
Or, just find that fellow on CPF that sells bored 6P bodies in the Parts section of the sale pages. I have one, they are well done and only about $30.

I’ve not read any specific articles about reducing material = reducing strength, but you know it has to happen. I cannot compress/ deform a battery tube with my hands if they are at least 0.050” thick, so I’m calling that good.

I do have an E2 Elite that was purchased as a beater, because the previous owner tried to bore it out to 18mm. He burned through the sidewall in a couple places. Works perfectly with an 18650, but I wouldn’t trust it for anything other than casual use.

~D

Yep, takes me longer to do stuff too. I struggle with being a perfectionist and sometimes i just have to force myself to move along because the time spent for the end result becomes impractical.

CZ makes great guns. Buddy of mine has a p10c in .40 on order but prolly wont get it till mid Jan. or later. Can’t wait to try it out though. Im not a big 1911 fan but do agree that hand built is the way to go! That or a Nighthawk/Les Baer/Wilson Combat type qaulity one. Which is waayyy more $ than i want to pay!

Toys keep me broke too! Thanks for the silver s2 advice, i’ll have to start checking more closely so you guys can’t roast me lol!!!

As far as the files i haven’t been able to look for much since its the holidays and everyone of my friends and family come to me for buying advice on all the tech gifts, so i been researching (and asking ya’ll) for those things. Soon as i see some i like i’ll let ya know if you dont get any before then. Don’t know when i’ll purchase them though. Got too much invested in xmas gifts at the moment lol.

That seems to be a very reasonable thickness. A circle/tube is a pretty strong structure even when its thin.
I wonder if the Elzetta Bones is as thick in the walls as the other models since it accepts an 18650?

Vwpieces, looks like DMT doesnt make any needle files. Eze-lap is another highly regarded diamond tool manufacturer and they have needle files in sets of 6 fine or 6 course and they are ~$40 a set on Brownells. You can buy the files individually too if you only want one or two of a certain kind. Im still looking around but these are my top choice at the moment.

Harbor freight has a 10 pc. Set for ~$7-$8 but i have no idea of the qaulity, gets 4.5 stars on harbor freight website FWIW.

I pretty much stay away from hand tools at Harbor Freight. I’ve broken some (including those needle files) after just standard use. I just purchase the best quality I can afford at the time.

most of my flashlight filing needs are handled by a Nicholson 6” fine file, had it for probably a decade now.

Searched diamond on Horrible Freight and the files didn’t show up. Did find them eventually. Wow that site got weird. No titles per item but they are using brand names for comparisons? Search bait?

Moved on to Amazon and similar junk there with wide range of prices for same junk. Seems that most are only Half coated with diamond.
This set stuck out as the pic shows they are mostly coated. May try them out. No big loss if they are bad. Could send them back…
Fatmingo LX-0001DT Titanium-Coated Diamond Needle Files Set for Metal Ceramic Glass with Case 3x140x70mm(Pack of 5)

  • Good solder /None of this no lead BS
  • flux … flux and more flux
  • kapton tape
  • dental pick or a nut pick
  • Micro shears…. under 5$ but priceless
  • A decent multimeter
  • Small set of files

Sounds like those files arent worth even that price then. I’ve bought some things from harbor fright that were decent for the price but i’ll agree that alot of it is junk and to buy better if using them everyday.