Yeah been gone gonna check it out tonight.
Did some checking there is zero voltage on pin 3 when light is on .when you ramp up and light turns off or you double click for turbo there is 5.11 volts on pin 3.Anybody got any idea.
I changed the fet and light is working now nearly 17000 lumens on turbo .
I got today also a light from Canada v2, so modding the MCPCB as well
I connected it the was it lights up with central connection, but I will place the main current cables to the spots where the resistance is optimized
What size wire did you use ? I used 20 awg . I bypassed all te springs on the driver and carrier and got 19100 lumens on startup, it stepped down before 30s with a 60c temp setting.
I wired the briges up to connect 2 leads for V+ and V-
I used 0.35mm² for the small bridge wires, as they only carry one 2S LED pair
so if I get this straight not reducing the mm² to the driver I would need 9x0.35mm€ so 3mm²
The leads to the driver I can go with 2x2 1.0mm² or barely fit 1.5mm² leads, so 2-3mm² each combined wire
I have now his light fully modded
leads are soldered to spots to get lowest resistance
Have you measured it please?How many Lumens-Candelas I mean?
I’m interested to see what output you get i ran mine last night and got 17800 lumens stepped down before 30s.I got 19000 last week i don’t know if it was because of the colder temps in workshop or just an anomally. This is probably my favorite light right now.
One thing has come up since the driver change. the springs in the carrier are not up to the task.My solder blobed vtc6’s will fall out now unless you hold them in.Anybody else had this problem. Mine are bypassed.
They should have bronze alloy springs, those usually conduct well and should not get hot especially when bridged
swap out for steel springs and 0.5mm² bypass, almost no current flow in the springs and they are a lot stiffer and more elastic than bronze springs
[quote=Lexel]
They should have bronze alloy springs, those usually conduct well and should not get hot especially when bridged
swap out for steel springs and 0.5mm² bypass, almost no current flow in the springs and they are a lot stiffer and more elastic than bronze springs[/q
I checked springs after a run on turbo and springs are not hot they have just got more compressed with use.
Cool mod but over my head.
too bad 
To me it looks like spaghetti. I keep thinking there has got to be a better way.
Too bad someone (the mfg) does not make the correct mcpcb so we can plug and play two parts instead of one and spaghetti.
Come to think of it this sounds like a group buy opportunity. have the mfg drop the better driver and make a new mcpcb for the emitters.
I am sure someone in the USA would make it for you, shipping to Germany would be a dealbreaker
I did the same mod and my carrier springs are also not happy, but I haven’t bypassed them yet. Likely gonna need to get new springs anyone know of a good source for new springs?
Mtn Elec might have the size you need. They are in US so shipping should be fast.
Bypassing the carrier springs will take care of the problem.My lumens jumped almost 2000 with carrier springs bypass.
Alright I’ll report back any gain from the bypass sometime today.
Would These suffice? They only have 4 springs so not a lot to choose from. Either these or the beryllium copper springs, but those are quite soft from what I hear.
steel springs should be bypassed as they get hot
Copper alloy springs are fine not bypassed
for example
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001712/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-spring-for-flashligh