FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Really wished the prototype could have come with the XPG3 emitters that were planned so we could see what the tint/beam would look like.
Maybe the next round or someone could swap some in?

Is that where he’s been hiding?

I swear, that guy must have a spidey sense or something. He’s way too good at avoiding me.



I was disappointed too. I was hoping we could settle the emitter type issue, but it remains unresolved.

I was amazed by the initial design as well.

I don’t have any argument on latest design, it’s great, but it’s just different from the initial one.
Wishing that I can get the light as initial design which is already in my mind.

Haven’t checked this thread in a while. I think I prefer the tapered shape because I expect it to slide in and out of a pocket more easily. I do really appreciate the looks of the original, but I’m very much in the form follows function camp and it looks like the new form will function better. I liked the polished look better, but I use lights when it’s dark, so that’s not a priority.

I’m really glad to see that ToyKeeper is working on the firmware. Just using Narsil seemed like a good enough plan to me, but TK working out all the kinks should make it free of annoying glitches and well-tuned for the hardware. Thanks, TK!

I still think it needs more Niciha. As more XP-G3 beamshots in various optics show up, I think that more than ever. The XP-G3 always seems to make a beam that looks like a bruise. Yes, I can do that myself, but not everyone can, and it adds 40% to the cost.

As for what the final beam will look like, has anybody built a Convoy triple with these and a 10507? That should produce an essentially identical beam.

For what it’s worth, I love the new look and if anyone would like to give up their slots I’d gladly take it, I’d like a total of 3-4 of these,

There aren’t a limited number of slots as far as I can tell. If you want more, sign up for more.

I’ll probably still buy the 3-4 of these I signed up for regardless of minor changes, emitters, optics, etc… as long as the original concept remains intact, as I can change emitters and optics myself. I’d buy these as host+driver with no emitters or optics too.

I probably wouldn’t recommend it to others not inclined to modification with the XP-G3 though.

Please add me to the interest list for two!

I agree with this point and ultimately will buy a couple whatever the configuration (even a mixed up version). The small size, power and excellent UI will make this a light that other companies should take notice of.

We’ve been lucky to have high performing lights recently available and this one oughta go to the head of the pack once it’s in production. Thanks fritz15 for your design and I hope they’ll make a light that satisfies you and your vision.

I prefer the new design! :+1:

Played with a triple XP-G3 I got from RobertB/CaptRon25 today with a couple of different optics. It was taken from a Wuben T046R with a claimed CRI of 90. Turned out it wasn’t high CRI, but the more interesting thing for me was the tint shift and beam as a triple.

Here’s the results using a heavily frosted Carclo triple optics with pretty much no visible hotspot and very low apparent output. The result is not bad at all.

Here it is with an almost clear, very slightly frosted with a much worse results. Even though the shift direction change near the hotspot is not as apparent, the overall tint is very unpleasant, cool and purple at 7000K and duv of –0.004. It is also very noticeably green towards the spill.

I still think the FW03 should be made with Nichias or at least the choice of optics and its setting must be very carefully optimized.

Thanks, yeah I’m not fancying the XP-G3 option.

Maukka, do you have a 10507 optic to try?

Why not XP-L2 which is newer and more efficient instead of XP-G3?

Please sign me up for 2.

Thanks,

Martin

I wonder if dome slicing eliminates the tint shift on the XP-G3s. I read it works for the XHP50.2. Might be a simple mod for people who don’t fancy swapping emitters.

I know its a cost thing, but XP-L 4000k (the A or D version) is a real winner.

XP-L HI usually looks pretty nice under TIR optics like this; good output without much tint shift. It would probably add at least $10 to the price though, since the emitters cost twice as much.

I did a lot of preliminary experimentation on the XP-G3 when it first came out, with MEM helping point the way. I was never impressed with it and won’t use it. The XP-L2, while impressive, is questionable as to whether it fits under the Carclo optic or not, it’s a tight fit and can lead to separation of the dome and inverted die face which would just be troublesome in the long run.

XP-L HI or Nichia 219C are excellent choices under these optics, as are the XP-G2 emitters in nice tint’s.

The difficult to source XP-L W2 fits under the optics but as I said, it’s not reliably sourced. The 3 XP-L “V6” 2D in my Sofirn C8F appear to be the W2 variant, with smaller flats on the side of the dome than the typical V6, this is what allows the W2 to fit the optic. So, if the source for Sofirn’s choice of emitter could be reliably located I’d highly recommend it, I’ve seen the W2 produce 2018 lumens in a single emitter single cell light. Should be quite nice in this one. My Sofirn triple with an aluminum triple reflector is making 4378 lumens. Just sayin…

Hi,

Today I had another look at the prototype. To be precise, I baked it in the oven at 150 degree C to loosen up the glue in the tailcap and to have a closer look at the switch assembly.

But first let’s start out with a few pictures of the light:

Somehow the design is growing on me, but we have not decided yet if we will keep it like this or change it.
To repeat myself, I am very pleased with the prototype. It’s not entirely the light we want yet but already quite close and the things which need to be changed are details.

But let’s have a closer look at the switch assembly. To get straight to the point, I am very pleased with the switch and my expectations have been exceeded.

Here a picture of all the parts:

LT implemented my design nicely and even improved it. They added a small o-ring to prevent the inner tube from rattling when changing the battery and to provide a tighter fit.

Another detail, there is a small plastic pin in the rubber sealing to improve the feel of the switch.

If you’re not fond of the metal switch or want the switch to be more easily reachable, that’s not a problem either. The light is constructed to support standard 14mm silicon caps.

The quality of the clip is great. Often you can see marks from cutting out the material. Here the edges are nicely rounded and polished.

I hope you like what you see so far and if you have other questions I am happy to answer.