What did you mod today?

8221 posts / 0 new
Last post
vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 2165
Location: PA, USA

Yeah its fun when its done and works. If it didn’t work I would be SOL with no clue why.
30mm is going into SD26, if all goes well it will also charge.
Have a 17 & 20mm to build next. 17mm is for the C8F.

Any clue if anything needs to be changed in the D4 UI code for 2S like the L6?

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Online
Last seen: 11 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2426
Location: Canuk in NM

Very cool; to both vwpieces and CRX

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 2165
Location: PA, USA

Thanks
I am wanting to see some Hot Air action Don.

Persechini
Persechini's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/11/2017 - 03:32
Posts: 505
Location: Brasil

2 emitter transplants today:

Nitecore HC30 with cool white emitter got a spare XM-L2 3B tint I had from from my S2+ triple

Nitecore TIP 2017 also cool white got the 2nd 219C high CRI 5000k from the late D4

Notes:

  • Broke the lens on the TIP, and have no idea how to replace it… I hope my local glass shop will have the tools do cut a circle this tiny. Scratched the reflector a little too, but it doesn’t appear to be affecting the beam
  • I never quite got the snapping effect people show and tell about reflowing emitters, I had to manually center the emitters and by consequence the MCPCBs spent more time on the pan than I’d like, the TIP MCPCB even started to peel of the positive pad and started smelling a little funny. Is this because there is less solder than needed? I never added any extra solder, I just used what was left over on the MCPCB and back of the emitter
  • So far these are 3 (2 from this post and the Tool AAA previously) cool white flashlights that I made into my preferred 5000k tint, 2 of them are now also high CRI. The 3 of them have neutral/warm white versions that where either unavailable, not included in a flash sale, or unknown to me at the time of purchase, so now I have flashlights that I like a lot more than I did before and washed away any semblance of regret I had from buying the cool white versions. I don’t think I would have ever tried such feats if not for everything I see and read shared here, so thanks BLF for that

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Online
Last seen: 11 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2426
Location: Canuk in NM
vwpieces wrote:
Thanks I am wanting to see some Hot Air action Don.

Me too! I have other stuff “in the way”. I need to complete the big bookcase project first. Getting close to being done; stained the last pieces this morning.

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 2316
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

Some pics of the earlier mentioned Osram Oslon square 4000K 96 CRI led replacements:
Smaller than XP but not really difficult to fit because the thermal pad has almost the same width.



Beautiful colors with 96 CRI


One in the Utorch UT01:


On the left: UT01 Osram, On the right: Nitecore TIP CRI

Left: UT01 XP-L CW, right: UT01 Osram

doubleone44
doubleone44's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 11:42
Posts: 172
Location: The Netherlands

From the pictures the tint looks really good..
What’s the output on them? Around 300 lumens? Might still give some nice output in a triple or quad like that.

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 2316
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

330 lumens at 1,57A

1C3
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 06:42
Posts: 77
Location: Italy

Today I completed my hardest build yet, an E2L with an LD-B4 and three sw57 219Bs.

Why the hardest? Well it’s harder to build with the LD-B4 compared to other drivers and also many things didn’t fit together and needed sanding.

The first snag I met was ILC-1 not fitting in the tailcap because it touched the retaining ring outer lip, quickly solved with some sanding.

Then the led pcb didn’t fit the head of the light so I had to sand that too paying attention not to get too close and causing shorts.

On the positive side, the fit after I was done was perfectly snug.

Then I needed to cut to size and solder the many wires, I guess it wasn’t all that difficult but certainly time consuming.


And when I was done and tried to do a runtime test in a jar of water, I found out the light wasn’t waterproof Facepalm , I think it was because the glass is a little bit too small and didn’t make good contact with the front o-ring; after rebuilding the head paying attention to keep the glass centered it had no problem emptying a Sanyo GA while underwater. And here’s the runtime on 7.5A as proof Big Smile .

I’m going to see if I can find a glass that fits better but overall I’m pretty happy with the build, I like led4power’s stuff a lot and the E2L host too. The light looks good and the beam with the Carclo 10508 is beautifully floody too.

vwpieces wrote:
My S2+ Luxeon V, 9A, NTC on MCPCB is wicked short on highest temp setting. I just disabled it. Use Driver thermal but now it just shuts off completely. Big Smile Wrong host by far, single LED at 8.4A. Need a different host with more meat to it. Nice LED tint even on DD.

I had similar results even when using slightly lower current (7.5A), with stock thermal regulation it stepped down in about 10-15 seconds and I was unable to set the custom treshold high enough to make the regulation useful so I just disabled it too, but at least I haven’t had any driver shutdown because the fet is on the mcpcb.
Funny how the X6 can just chug 6A without problem for so long but this can’t go 15 seconds without throttling, didn’t expect to find this much of a difference but I guess there really is a big delta in thermal mass and heatsink surface between the two.

g_damian
g_damian's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/20/2017 - 06:52
Posts: 457

That’s strange, mine E2L with 219c on 7A and ld-b4 driver holds easily over a minute until thermal step-down.

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5373
Location: Germany

Persechini wrote:
2 emitter transplants today:

Nitecore HC30 with cool white emitter got a spare XM-L2 3B tint I had from from my S2+ triple

Nitecore TIP 2017 also cool white got the 2nd 219C high CRI 5000k from the late D4

Notes:

  • Broke the lens on the TIP, and have no idea how to replace it… I hope my local glass shop will have the tools do cut a circle this tiny. Scratched the reflector a little too, but it doesn’t appear to be affecting the beam
  • I never quite got the snapping effect people show and tell about reflowing emitters, I had to manually center the emitters and by consequence the MCPCBs spent more time on the pan than I’d like, the TIP MCPCB even started to peel of the positive pad and started smelling a little funny. Is this because there is less solder than needed? I never added any extra solder, I just used what was left over on the MCPCB and back of the emitter
  • So far these are 3 (2 from this post and the Tool AAA previously) cool white flashlights that I made into my preferred 5000k tint, 2 of them are now also high CRI. The 3 of them have neutral/warm white versions that where either unavailable, not included in a flash sale, or unknown to me at the time of purchase, so now I have flashlights that I like a lot more than I did before and washed away any semblance of regret I had from buying the cool white versions. I don’t think I would have ever tried such feats if not for everything I see and read shared here, so thanks BLF for that

If you use old solder of different kind it gets not a good compound, adding flux is a must to get better chance for a good reflow
BUT it is way better to clean off old solder completely and add new solder, it makes no difference if paste or wire used, additional flux can help

vwpieces
vwpieces's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 07/17/2016 - 19:49
Posts: 2165
Location: PA, USA
1C3 wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
My S2+ Luxeon V, 9A, NTC on MCPCB is wicked short on highest temp setting. I just disabled it. Use Driver thermal but now it just shuts off completely. Big Smile Wrong host by far, single LED at 8.4A. Need a different host with more meat to it. Nice LED tint even on DD.

I had similar results even when using slightly lower current (7.5A), with stock thermal regulation it stepped down in about 10-15 seconds and I was unable to set the custom treshold high enough to make the regulation useful so I just disabled it too, but at least I haven’t had any driver shutdown because the fet is on the mcpcb.
Funny how the X6 can just chug 6A without problem for so long but this can’t go 15 seconds without throttling, didn’t expect to find this much of a difference but I guess there really is a big delta in thermal mass and heatsink surface between the two.

I prefer the S2 triple over the S2+ and the S2+ over the E2L. Simply because of the thermal mass. S2 Triple uses a good hunk of Copper.
Hard part for me to understand on my single Luxeon V S2+ is that the outside of the light does not feel hot enough to justify the thermal shutdown on highest possible settings. I have the Fet on driver and the thermal spacer installed and I am starting to wonder if its the driver getting too much heat from the emitter. I should try to remove the thermal driver spacer.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15812
Location: Amsterdam

^ I hope you do not confuse mass with thermal mass. Per volume, copper and brass can store more heat, but per weight aluminium is better. So the mass of a flashlight can give a good feeling, but lightweight aluminium can store a surprising amount of heat too (I do not have the numbers at hand, I believe it was: copper has 2.5 times the weight of aluminium, but just 1.4 times the heat capacity).

That said, regardless of which metal is used, an S2+ triple with a spacer to compensate the short optic just has a lot more metal under the leds, and thus takes more time to heat up than a single led S2+ without extra spacer.

led4power
led4power's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 12/29/2012 - 09:48
Posts: 1210
Location: Croatia,EU

 For those who having problem with setting custom OTP threshold, I just updated LD-x4 datasheet, you can download it from my page: LD-x4 datasheet

Since someone already asked me about OTP setting on LD-x4 driver over mail, I will just copy my answer here, which explains difference between LD-3 and LD-x4 OTP setting:

"But I will describe it here for now:
 If you want to change OTP threshold, you should turn on the
flashlight on highest mode, wait until is around temperature that you
want to be new threshold,
 and then enter into config. settings - next select EXT. OTP menu and
choose "CUSTOM" sub-menu. After that driver will set mode to max. and
flashlight would get hotter. When temperature is what you want to be
new threshold - fully turn the flashlight off. On the next turn on new
temp. threshold value will be stored.

 The difference between LD-3 OTP setting and LD-x4 setting is that you
must "pre-heat" flashlight outside config. setting on LD-x4 drivers
and then set final value of OTP in config. setting; on LD-3 drivers it
was possible to set OTP directly in config. setting. Reason for that
is that LD-x4 has 30sec "no-press" turn-off timer while in config.
settings as safety feature,if you don't press switch for 30sec, driver
would shut down without storing anything, so if you don't "preheat"
flashlight in normal mode, there is a good chance , your flashlight
would not get hot enough during those 30sec.

 If you have problem with setting desired OTP level, please try to
follow upper procedure:
 "Pre-heat" light in normal mode -> enter into config. settings -> go
to EXT. OTP menu ->CUSTOM sub.menu ->driver would go to max. mode ->
wait until temp. is hot enough (should be in <30sec!)-> turn the
flashlight off ->turn the flashlight ON ->DONE "

 

 

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15812
Location: Amsterdam

Today I built up a Jaxman E2L host, using a BLF-A6 (FET+7135) driver and 4000K  Luxeon V leds on the new led4power 4040 triple board. In fact, I did this build to check some real world performance of this new board type.

 

Special about the new boards that he sells now is that they are not DTP, so none of the solder pads are electrically connected to the core, but the dielectric layer is so thin (it is just an anodisation layer on the aluminium core) that the board should perform just as well as a DTP board.

 

I won a number of these boards in a small quiz that l4p held to promote them, and I happened to be online  (innocent) just as he posted it so I was the first with a correct answer. And I even received some bonus boards, thanks!

 

The 4040  triple board is exactly 20mm diameter, as it should be, but the E2L host annoyingssely just allows 19.5mm, so it needed some slight shaving and that can only by just be done while still clearing the circuitry on top. But I do not know how I would have done that without my disc sander. The shaved board:

 

Reflowing the leds was no problem, and since I'm not using the FET-option  on the ledboard, the ledminus wire was soldered on the FET-drain pad.

 

The leds fit tight but nicely under the Carclo optic.

 

Both springs were bypassed with 20AWG wire, the rather long tail spring replaced with a shorter one to make a 18350 cell fit less tight in shorty form. I replaced the switch because I melted the stock one during the spring soldering. The BLF-A6 driver received the 'voltage spike-fix' (not really needed for this driver, an OCD-thingy), a 680 Ohm bleeder resistor and 20AWG ledwires. A lighted tail is planned at a later moment.

The only real problem was soldering the ledwires on the ledboard. It was immediately clear that this dielectric layer is something special because even though the pads and wires were pre-tinned, even my super-hot 80W solder iron (admittedly with old rotten tip) struggled to get the solder hot enough to join, the heat was just sucked away to the core: I had multiple cold solder joints (the wires just sprung loose when the light was on max for a few seconds) before I finally got good connections. I ordered a new tip for the solder iron to get better work done next time. 

So the low thermal resistance dielectric layer which is the key quality of these boards, has a nasty side-effect: not just under the led but also under the solder pads the heat is sucked away to the core with record speed.

 

So I got the light done and did some measurements. I also measured my modded Emisar D4 with Luxeon V leds again for comparison, even though it is a bit different light, and it has 4 Luxeon V leds compared to 3 for the E2L. Ignoring other differences, having 3 leds the E2L could theoretically put out 75% of the D4. But probably a bit less because the E2L uses a clicky switch and a bit lower quality FET, both adding some extra resistance. I measured output on a fully charged 30Q battery, at 3 seconds (first stable reading of my luxmeter after an output change), 12 seconds (first stepdown of the D4) and 30 seconds for the E2L.

D4:

3 seconds: 5200 lumen

12 seconds: 4850 lumen

 

E2L:

3 seconds: 3650 lumen

12 seconds: 3450 lumen

30 seconds: 3170 lumen

 

The D4 even performs better than when I measured it first a few weeks ago. It looses 7% output in 12 seconds. The E2L looses just 5.5% in 12 seconds, already a good sign for the ledboard. 3170 lumen at 30 seconds is also very good for this very small triple. Only the output (at 12 seconds) is not 75% of the D4 but 71%, a small difference that can easily be attributed to FET and switch, I do not blame the ledboard. The longest runtime that I checked on turbo was 40 seconds, which is the fixed stepdown time for the BLF-A6 driver. No angry blue light and no damage could be observed.

 

I give this board a very good rating for performance, when doing this mod I did not not see any worse performance compared to a DTP board (better??). The only challenge is getting the ledwires soldered, a problem inherent to the good thermal properties of these boards.

giorgoskok
giorgoskok's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 11 hours ago
Joined: 11/13/2015 - 10:46
Posts: 2660
Location: Greece

Thanks for your test and thoughts on these mcpcbs Jos .

Also , you should get some Sony VTC5A batteries if you haven’t any , they give a bit more power for these quads and triples Wink

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Online
Last seen: 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9500
Location: nyc
giorgoskok wrote:
Also , you should get some Sony VTC5A batteries if you haven’t any , they give a bit more power for these quads and triples Wink

Forgot which ones I got on the way, but anyone know any substantive differences between the 5/5A/6?

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20320
Location: Heart of Texas

SinkPAD lists the thermal capacity of their copper MCPCB’s as well as aluminum ones, both DTP, the copper has virtually twice the capacity. Al 210.0 W/m.K Cu 385.0 W/m.K, so while it’s not exactly half for the Al it’s not that far off. These numbers are given on a 20.5mm triple MCPCB with DTP for each metal core.

If you were to make a flashlight head in Aluminum to weigh the same as one in Copper, well obviously the Aluminum one would be very bulky. lol

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20320
Location: Heart of Texas

5A’s ROCK! Big Smile

giorgoskok
giorgoskok's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 11 hours ago
Joined: 11/13/2015 - 10:46
Posts: 2660
Location: Greece

VTC5 is 2600mAh , up to 20A continuous discharge current (test by mooch)
VTC5A is 2500-2600mAh , up to 25A continuous discharge current (test by mooch)
VTC6 is 3000mAh , up to 15-20A continuous discharge current (test by mooch)

VTC5A seems to be the 18650 battery with the lowest internal resistance up to date (aka it will give the most current when used in a direct drive setup , in comparison to any other 18650 cell)

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Online
Last seen: 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9500
Location: nyc
DB Custom wrote:
5A’s ROCK! Big Smile

Looked up my orders, yeah, VTC6.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/5avri8/sony_vtc_b...

I figure I’m not going to be vaping or DDing a quad or anything, so I went for capacity. 3AH sounded good. Big Smile

But yeah, lotsa people like the 5 and 5A, so am still wondering why.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Online
Last seen: 32 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 9500
Location: nyc
giorgoskok wrote:
VTC5A seems to be the 18650 battery with the lowest internal resistance up to date (aka it will give the most current when used in a direct drive setup , in comparison to any other cell)

That was the gist of what I was getting earlier, albeit in a roundabout way, but this about sums it up nicely. Big Smile

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161

I modded another nitefighter C8 style light today and decided to see what the SST-40 would do if I put it on the aluminum mcpcb that comes with them. I did put down good thermal grease to give it it’s best chance of surviving the low resistance FET driver, heavier wires and spring mod. Surprisingly it did not kill the emitter even with a LGDBHE4 which is a pretty good high amp battery.

I did this because I was curious how many amps they can handle without being put on direct copper mcpcbs. Ton’s of lights like the SRK’s and other multi-emitters are a lot easier and cheaper to mod if you re-flow onto the original mcpcbs. From this I would say that there is little to worry about even when using high amp batteries.

Does anyone know how many amps these SST-40’s can handle without putting them on copper mcpcbs? I wouldn’t think they could handle this much and now I’m curious what the max is.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15812
Location: Amsterdam

^ DTP boards perform pretty close to each other (a few years ago relic38 and I tested a number of types that all came pretty close to each other), but I have the impression that in non-DTP boards there is a huge variation in performance. The best I have seen is a cheap (copper core) 20mm XM-L board that easily allowed to run an XM-L2 led at 5A while performing only 5% less than a Sinkpad. But on the safe side I think 4A is no problem for almost any ledboard, also with a SST-40.

18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161
djozz wrote:
^ DTP boards perform pretty close to each other (a few years ago relic38 and I tested a number of types that all came pretty close to each other), but I have the impression that in non-DTP boards there is a huge variation in performance. The best I have seen is a cheap (copper core) 20mm XM-L board that easily allowed to run an XM-L2 led at 5A while performing only 5% less than a Sinkpad. But on the safe side I think 4A is no problem for almost any ledboard, also with a SST-40.

Thanks for the info.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 41 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12975
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Heres djozz’s test on the SST-40.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54947

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15812
Location: Amsterdam


Today I modded a LuckySun D80 with a BLF-A6 driver and a Black Flat on led4power’s new, promising, Oslon board.

Unfortunately the modding attempt took all day and turned into an investigation of this new type of board, and this is what I found:

  • to compare this new mod to, I have a driver-less (so led directly connected to battery, with only the switch in the circuitry) ‘Mitko-thrower’ with a Black Flat on a XP-DTP board, current is 4.5A and output is 700 lumen after 30 seconds, which is pretty consistent with my Black Flat emitter test.
  • But this D80 mod, very neatly performed, did just under 500 lumen (at 4.2A, close enough), so there is 200 lumen missing somehow. The light was clearly more purple on the highest setting compared to the lower levels, a bit more purple than the (higher output) Mitko thrower.
  • I thought maybe the driver is off, so I put a new BLF-A6 driver into the D80. Result: still a bit under 500 lumen.
  • I reflowed a new (my last Sad ) Black Flat on the board to see if it was the led that was wrong, result: still under 500 lumen.
  • I suspected that my D80 has a really bad reflector, so I took a brand new Convoy C8 host with beautiful smooth reflector and transplanted driver and board+led into it. Result: 4.2A and just under 500 lumen.
  • then I tried driver-less, connecting led-minus thoroughly to ground. Result: under 500 lumen.
  • then as a last way out, I reflowed the led on a 20mm Noctigon and soldered it into the C8 (with the BLF-A6-driver, but with the DTP-board the driver is bypassed and led is directly connected to battery). Result: clear and present 620 lumen (and a small black speck on the led from all the transplants).

In all steps above I made sure that the led was perfectly centered and in focus, they were finished mods.

Conclusion: I can still think of other explanations, but for me the most plausible one at this moment is that this new type of board (at least the one that I did the test on), when heat-shedding really counts with a severely overdriven led that has the small Oslon footprint, performs not as good as a DTP board. I hope that I will be proven wrong by others as I really want that easy to use well-performing Black Flat board.

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5373
Location: Germany

Black flats also do not come in flux bins they put them randomly in the tapes
likely this ones were on the low end of efficiency

Agro
Agro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4573
Location: Ślōnsk

Yeah, but reflowing another LED yielded the same result while switching MCPCBs brought an improvement. This is a strong indication that MCPCB was the reason for low performance.
That’s indeed a disheartening result.

Enderman
Enderman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 11/03/2016 - 22:42
Posts: 3965
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Yeah you definitely want DTP if you want to get the most out of this LED.
Thermal paste is a must.
If you want to do 5-6A then you need a proper heatsink, not a flashlight host, to dissipate the heat.

Pages