Thanks, I only use eneloops so I don’t want to know 14500. I’ve been reading a lot about UT01 in this forum and it seems there are problems when using NiMh so I guess I won’t be buying this and go for Sorfirn SP10B instead.
That would probably be wise.
I am not sure what the current draw is. FWIW I leave my UT01 on candle mode overnight all the time… many nights in succession. I use it as a nightlight with a 2000mah eneloop.
I got my CW UT01 finally. For walking outside, I think I do like the CW tint better.
CW and NW optional?
Welcome to BLF LTVictor.
The light is available in Neutral white or Cool white.
I have the NW and it is warmer tint than the described 5000K. I would say closer to 4000K.
Closer to 4000k? Nice. I ordered both tints. Maybe the CW will be decent.
Latest lights are reported with 4000K Emitter
I just got a “NW 5000K” that I ordered around 11/11. Yes, the tint is definitely more like 4000K.
It’s an okay tint, but I think it has a tiny bit of green in it. I don’t hate it but I would have preferred a genuine neutral white.
I am tempted to order a 6500K if there is another deal for 10 bucks. Normally I don’t like cool white but this light is a bargain.
Interesting. My NW UT01 is really rosy and not green at all.
I guess they changed emitters recently, here’s a (shortened) quote from the Lumintop EDC05 thread
I hope the UT01 I have arriving from GB doesn’t have ugly green tint, I could deal with the Convoy 4C comparative but not the green. Also hope I get a good switch.
I’ll be looking for feedback to see how this Lumintop version pans out, I really like the tail magnet.
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I ordered the UT01 as an alternative to an 18650 light that’s about the same size with about the same output “(DQG Tiny 4th)”:https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_271697.html
DQG Tiny 4th: 86mm x 22mm (850lm)
U-torch UT01: 84mm x 19mm (800lm)
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I was afraid of the smallish size, non recessed button on the DQG, I’ll be sacrificing a lot of battery capacity but the UT01 appears to have a larger button, plus it has a reflector and the nice programmable UI. Although I’m really impressed by the size of the DQG, being it’s about the same size as a 14500 light.
I have the DQG 18650 Tiny 1st version (Twisty) and like it, and unlike many others have reported, I’ve had absolutely no problems with mine whatsoever.
Maybe I mistake the green tint for the warmer light (I don’t have any light warmer then 5000K) so I opened the box and checked it again.
Externally the only difference is that the new UT01 have smaller text on the tailcap.
The new UT01 to the RIGHT.
Did some beamshots with my crappy Chinese phone camera just to see the difference.
The new UT01 to the LEFT.
Hard to see with bad pictures but you clearly see a difference.
I can’t do single beamshots of each flashlight to shine at a white cealing since the camera autofocus would ruin them.
Decide for yourself but that new UT01 went back in the box.
waiting for mine to arrive from Gearbest, $9.99 What are the chances of getting one with a good switch? From all I read I’m a bit paranoid. But I love programmable lights.
I think your chances are pretty good. Out of four, I got three that seem to be perfect, and one that was a bit ‘off’ to begin with - but a piece of wire in the tailcap, and constant use seems to have worked out the kinks.
There are some things that might be worth paying attention to before you ever put a battery in .
Check the five little prongs on the back of the driver to see if they stick up very high. If they do, trim them before you install a battery. If a flat top 14500 were installed, all they’d have to do is stick up higher than the “+” bump on the driver to possibly cause a short.
Check to see if there’s any gap between the tailcap and the tube. Some of mine have measurable gaps, while the problematic one had no gap at all, and I think the ano on the cap was meeting the ano on the tube shoulder before the circuit was made. A circle of copper wire inside the tailcap fixes that., and even adds enough length to accommodate slightly longer batteries.
I’ve only had experience with the one troublesome light (which is no longer troublesome), but I have learned a bit and tried to put to use some of the clues posted about the UT01. The foregoing only might help. I can’t comment much on possible 14500 issues; I don’t use them.
You mentioned the switch (as have several others). Mine had a ‘crunchy’ feel to it when it arrived, almost like 3 or 4 steps in the brief length of its travel. I think it was internal debris of some sort; it actually smoothened itself out to where now it’s indistinguishable from the rest of them. Others have reported worse problems, so YMMV.
I’ve been using this ‘problem’ light hard. It has rarely left my hand since it arrived a few weeks ago, and it’s gone through about three NimH cells and a couple of Lithium primaries as a night light, a table light, and to light up rooms instead of flicking on a wall switch. I’ve been trying to make it fail, and instead it just got better.
I’ve been lucky; I hope you will be too. I think your chances are pretty good.
Is there any more permanent fix to the short battery tube problem?
I have one UT01 (another on the way) and I need to tighten both ends very tight to make electrical contact.
A ring of wire works fine but I was hoping for something more permanent.
What you think about a couple of tiny solder blobs on the copper contact ring? Just to raise the connection point a hair.
That never occurred to me, but it should work very well.
P.s. Others have mentioned that their drivers are loose.
Mine are stuck in completely solid, and so are the front rings holding the lens & reflector in place. If I tried any harder to get them loose I’d surely damage something.
I might try it.
I suspect they machine the battery tube to correct length, anodize it fully, and then to remove anodization on both ends they come back and manually grind a fraction off. This last step is where the margin for error lies. Some workers take too much off. Just my guess.
FYI, here are my two UT01s… CW and NW. White balance in camera was set to 5K.
Feel like I'm seeing conflicting info ... Will the UT01 accept Ikea Ladda Batts?
I think they probably will; most of mine accept Eneloops and Imedion NimH. If they are too long, I’d definitely try the ‘copper-wire-loop-in-the-tailcap’ trick. A circle made from thin silver solder wire works too, and it’s easy to form.
One of my lights was ‘iffy’ until I added a bit of length that way. Works perfectly now.
I think the tubes and tailcaps have manufacturing variances in their lengths. Incidentally, if you can find one of those cheap, skinny little split rings that sometimes come with key tags from the Dollar Store, they fit inside the tailcap perfectly and add a millimetre or so.
If I were getting any more, I’d check one thing before I ever put in a battery - if there’s zero gap between the tailcap and the corresponding shoulder on the tube, I’d address the length issue before risking crush damage to the driver with a too-long cell.
Thanks for your help! Have a UT01 on the slow boat from China and was going to pick up some Laddas. I'll let y'all know if they work.