It puts out small but useful enough 450 lm (peak, probably not possible with 10180).
The optic is a very throwy one and has the right size. A reflector should work well too, but I found precisely 0 intensity measurements coming from manufacturers, so I use TIRs in my drawings. I may use Endermann’s calculator though…
Frankly, I don’t know whether driverless is a good idea.
This LED had a very low Vf. It’s totally unsuitable for direct drive with moderately sized batteries, but 10180 may not blow it. It will be hard on battery and hard thermally. A regulated driver might be a good option, but it will take a lot of space, 2-sided for sure. A FET driver will be smaller, but when doing FET why don’t go all the way and make it driverless?
EDIT: I see very roughly 40 kcd with the calculator, again at peak intensity.
For me, the driver is desirable in order to get a nice UI. I wouldn’t necessarily want max output at all times either. It’s not so much about “regulation” as it is about “control”. I’m a little bit of a control freak, and I like having choices. It would also be insanely cool to have the NarsilM smooth ramping on such a minuscule light. That, coupled with it being classed a “thrower” would make it truly over-the-top!
I would also love a 26650 D4 or mini Q8.
With four XPLs it should do 4k+ lumen.
Onboard USB charging would be nice too.
Which optic/reflector remains a good question. The D4 TIR is too floody IMO. The Q8 beam is just right to my taste. Can it be shrunk and maintain some throw?
I would think the C8F triple reflector would be pretty close to the Q8. My guess would be a little bigger hotspot, so not as good throw, but still good and much brighter spill than a TIR. Here is a video of the C8F xpl to see the beam. Video by DB Custom.
How was the spill brightness? I was really hoping to find a TIR setup that could come close to a reflector as far as beam proportions, hot spot size to spill brightness.
EDIT, I changed post 487 to better reflect what I was trying to say.
TIR’s give you a larger hotspot then a reflector but that doesn’t mean less throw, they are simply better at collimating the beam.
I have dozens of TIR’s laying around here and I have tried all sorts of combos. The spill is usually better then you would expect unless the optic you got is specifically designed to not have any spill.
Unlike reflectors TIR’s are designed for a bunch of use cases and a whole lot more then size factors into what they give you.
In my case I did a lot of testing for my EDC tube light.
As a rule, the TIR gave more spill close to the hotspot, then there was a small area near the edge of the reflector beam where the reflector spill was slightly brighter. After the reflector spill cutoff though, the TIR spill kept going, just getting dimmer.
I prefer TIR optics in most cases, the beam is more pleasing.
I’d like a small, elegant, titanium light. BLF style.
Seeing how Astrolux sells their TI3A for $16 I can’t help but think that a much better BLF light has to be doable for $25 (preorder price). And I want one.
So:
10440 powered
e-switch, BLF UI
FET driver (FET+1 would be better, but if it complicates the build it’s not worth it)
CRI90 219c
clip
locator light
I think that LED locator would be cheaper than tritium. And if connected to the driver it could act as an indicator as well. Or with RGB led the colour could be configurable to best suit the garment.
I’d like it the most with the switch in the tail, but I’m not sure if doing the FW3A thing is feasible in a titanium light (I guess with Al internal tubing - yes). It would make the light thicker though.
A double-tube 10440 light doesn’t make much sense because it would lose the advantage of being thin. It’s also difficult to fit a complicated driver into something that size. But perhaps a 16340 light could work? It seems like it’d be a lot easier, at least.
I still want a BLF version of the Olight S-Mini.
I also still want a small BLF 14500 light. Could be like a smaller FW3A, could be like the brass AA clicky.
I have been looking for a good quality mid-size thrower for a while now and I just thought of bringing it up here. What I have in mind is a 3 or 4 cell Q8 style battery tube with a 2.8 to 3” head. Throw in good heat management, an efficient driver and Narsil or other great UI and BLF would have a nice light that would fill a hole in my line-up.
I have a MK35 that I might upgrade with a GT/Narsil driver and a 4000K or 4500K led swap. Wish me luck, I’m goin in! The 4000K in the GT has gotten me hooked. I just bought a MX30L4Cvn with XPL Hi 4000K which is now my favorite balanced light.
Texas Commander / LD4 style driver with FET on MCPCB, regulating the light all the way to peak output. Might place other components on MCPCB too it that’s needed to save space.
Ramping UI
Initial, somewhat incorrect sketch:
I drew it without glass protecting the lens. I’m not sure it that’s a great choice especially that bezel blocks some light, just like it is with S2+ triples.
And there is no place to put threads between head and body tube, so this is a unibody light with press-fit driver. Not sure if that’s feasible with USB and maybe a button on the other side. You can remove the driver by poking it from the optic side.
Why did I say “maybe a button on the other side”? Because I’m wondering if a button assembly plugged into USB slot wouldn’t be a good idea.