Test/Review of Electronic load 60W

I can’t say it for sure because I have ordered a lot “wrong” connectors over the last years so I am unsure which one is the one I used for the load.
But mostly they are called jst 2 pin and then the distance between the pins…you need to look at the pictures on eBay, but often the real product looks a bit different so it’s hard to tell for me.
Having a bunch of different cables laying around works the best for me and it is reasonable cheap because of the low prices/shipping from Chinese products.

But soldering cables on is also totally good if you don’t plan to use the load for different things…

The connectors look like the standard 5.08mm screw terminals you see on many Chinese electronics. Bootlace ferrules with a square (6-4) crimping tool are the correct way to terminate wires for them.

On a related note, does anyone have experience with this 150w version that’s a few bucks more?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/150W-USB-DC-Constant-Current-Industrial-Electronic-Load-1602-LCD-Screen-Battery-Capacity-Tester/32770455273.html

Looks like it has a four pin input so it probably also does IR measurements when using something like the holder mentioned earlier in this thread.

Interesting, I will have to consider getting one of those.

The connector for the voltage wires is a JST 2.5mm 2 pin

So far I’m not having great results with this. The capacity numbers are coming in way below what I get on my opus.

For example an LG mj1 put out like 3400mah on my opus and 2900 with this load at 1a. And that’s setting the voltage cutoff at 2.2v
If you set the cutoff at 2.7 it only shows 2500mah.

Not sure why there is such a discrepancy.

It is pretty simple to test if it is accurate or not.

Simply connect a multimeter in series with the battery and set it to current. Set it to say 1A of load and then let it go for an hour. If the multimeter says it is indeed pulling 1A the whole time then you know that it has pulled a total of 1000mah out of the cell in that hour.

Compare to the reading you see on the load and boom, you know which one is telling the truth.

I think it is terminating way early. Even with a 2.2v termination they are hitting the charger at 3.0v after a minute or so. Which to me says they are not fully discharged

What should I be terminating at for li-ion?

I’ve

I uses 2.8V for my reviews, depending on cell you can use 2.5V or even 2V for some cells.
You have to secure very good connection from the cell to the load, I prefer a 4 terminal setup.

Thanks HJK for another excellent review. To my untrained eye, the heat sink looks pretty cool in the IR pictures. Does the thermal path to the heat sink seem adequate? If not, do you know how to enhance it without creating a short?

I have one on the way (expecting to get it tomorrow). I had started a thread here where I was going to give what ever limited feedback I could on it.

As the heatsink is reflective itvreflects heat from the board, so it gives too high temperatures

To get accurate readings you need a non reflecting object like black anodized heatsink, paint or tape

The heat producing IC gets a bit over 90dC so the heatsink cant be 119dC hot

The heatsink has a good thermal coupling to the transistor, i.e. you cannot really improve it with simple means.

As Lexel writes the IR camera do not show correct value for shiny objects, you need to put a piece of tape on it to get a more correct value. I am a bit bad on explaining this, I could give a couple of excuses for that, but the real point is the temperature of the transistor. As long as it is fairly low*, there is no problem.

*Most transistor are rated for 150°C internal temperature, this means a 100°C outside temperature is acceptable. Here it hits 120°C temperature, this is at the limit, but without more detailed tests and data it is difficult to say if it is above or below the limit.

at 60W the transistor is probably at its absolute maximum ratings, I have misinterpretated the 2. picture its not the heatsink its the chip itself
Of course a heat sink with copper core could keep the transistor cooler but who wants to run it constantly at 60W discharge

I googled about reflecting parts measuring with IR the values are too low not too high as the IR camera sees cooler parts like looking at a mirror

I have not checked the data for the transistor, but 60W is not a high datasheet value, but it may require a very good heatsink.

Any blank metal will show the ambient temperature, most IR thermometers have a emissivity setting. It defines how much or the reading comes from the item your are pointing the thermometer at and how much is from the surroundings (i.e. reflections). Anything with a low emissivity setting is very difficult to get an accurate temperature reading from, because the surrounding temperature needs to be very accurate for what is reflected.

Thank you HKJ. I guess I should have read the OP more carefully. Thanks for your patience in re-explaining the matter. :)

Arrgh! Mine is defective. Got that edb mini v3 electronic load and it works perfect. Got to checking the 60w with the multimeter and am getting some weird results. Must be a short or bad component

HKJ
I am new here and positioned in Helsinki, Finland.Please help me with one question.
I have ordered this device and would like to do something else,
I would like to measure batteries, like you do in your battery tests.Get a chart were you can see V, I, Ah Wh etc.I have a laptop.
What do I need to do that, a datalogger or …something else.Please suggest something not to expensive perhaps in the 100 Euro - 200 Euro line.

Best Regards
Clas E.

Depends on what precision you require, with the above load and a multimeter with computer connection you can do it.
You set a fixed current on the load and then you use the multimeter and computer to log the voltage over time. Because the load is drawing a fixed current, you do not really need to measure it, but can just fill it in.
Excel or some other spreadsheet can be used to process the data and make curves.

This is not the way I do it, but my way is considerable more expensive and requires some programming.

This probably doesn’t answer your question… But for testing batteries with charting/logging, I’ve been using the ZKE Tech EBD-USB+ (will need to download the EB Tester software from their Chinese website, but software has full English version available), and need battery holder. It’s up to 35-watts only though. I’ve also purchased a short thick micro-USB to alligator clips and a battery holder (I think my wiring and battery holder adds some amount of resistance though… but works OK for my own comparison testing uses). I’m assuming you’ll be testing cylindrical batteries or small lead-acid batteries only since 35-watts means lower ampere current drain (the EBD-USB+ has 4A max, IIRC).

No precesion is needed, this is just close to.So thanks to both of you.

Thanks for your comment.
What I would like to test is how many 18650 battteries will be needed to backup my refrigator in my boat.In theory this is solved but i would like to measure it in practice.
I will take a look in what you suggest.My refrigator takes 40 watts (12 VDC) but it is close to what you suggest .
Thank´s again for your comment but can theese devices get you a printtable outcome.
I think your answer solved my question.Thank you.

Regards
Clas E.

Hey, does anyone know if I need to use the small white connector on the side?
It says V+ and V- which I assume is this voltage sense plug people are talking about right?

Any reason why it can’t just be connected in parallel to the P+ and P- ports which already connect to the battery?
EDIT- nvm I looked at a youtube review and apparently it’s not needed.