Also - Im not sure that this is suitable thread - but anyway:
There is one thing that are out of my machinary abilities, but defenetly can be made with tools that flashlight manufactures use.
If flashlight shape is not round or/and have some objects (side switch) that are usully imply one position when using (ie you will always hold it this way that you can manage switch with thumb), threads MUST be synchronised so the other screwing part (bettery tube) flatness was inline with this position. Maybe Im perfectionist but I dont like Q8 with tube flatness rotated by some degree relatively to the head.
Not a suggestion on how to improve this light, but a plea to Sofirm to make the host available.
Suggestions above added :+1:
Not added, but it’s nice you posted 
I think you got a (very good) point on this!!
kiriba-ru, if I understand correctly, you ask for a good “ergonomy” while grabbing/holding the light, making it easier to hold in the hands and find the switch button when/if rotating the line, right?
Like: the button aligned with a - example - flat surface on the top to have a nice grip, and also the emitters aligned well!
Is this it?
I wanted to clarify first to put the contribution on the post
Thanks in advance!
No.
Imagine that both parts (tube anc head) are square outside (or hex). If parts are first lathed, and then milled on another machine, this flat surfaces wont fit each other. I.e. you will be able to find position when they are synchronized but when you screw them all the way they wont fit. You can avoid this bug if you have combined lathe/mill machine with stepper motor or precision position sensor on main lathe axis.
Ok! Now I think I got it now
Looking to the picture of the K6 as example, the “raised” groove in the middle should always align with the side switch, in this case, independently of the batteries used inside! Is that the idea?
So, for the suggestion, can I post something like:
“combined/synchronized machining of head and body threads to enable precision and alignment of the 2 parts when screwing them together till the end” ?
I would stick to the main idea , 6* xp-l or 6*sst-40 (even better) on a copper DTP mcpcb with a quality boost? driver , or even a simple fet driver .
I would really like to see springs bypassed on this production light , Q8 proved that bypasses are a must . Second thing is brass screws holding the springs pcb , really makes a difference (3rd photo of Tom E’s post here) .
I would be interested in testing and writing a review too , thanks !
Suggestions added
How about the first production light with Andúril? It would make the product somewhat unique, specially if they work with ToyKeeper to iron it out to final release levels
I don’t know it it would be the first as the FW3A will probably have it! But I can put it in the suggestions ! :+1:
Following your message yesterday, about the interest list, you want to be put in it?
That was my intention, yes
Added
I got this info from Sofirn too from Aliexpress. I hope I’m in the testing team 
I wrote my suggestions to them at there. Mainly I suggested them to move to make a different kind of light like a triple led tube form 26650 light or something else because this is very close to Q8 but Q8 is on sale months ago. This could be a good light because the UI is pretty good and I hope there will be a lot mass in the head but Q8 mostly filled the requirements for this type of light.
I would like to see 2 options, XP-L HI and Nichia 219C.
Copper DTP MCPCB is must have.
I am interested in doing test and review if available…
ZozzV6 and XXX-Man, suggestions added
Thanks!
And about polarity protection:
I asked if it is electronical os physical. In this 4 parallel setup I think electronic is not enough as we saw in Q8 topic. advanced users also get tired and sometimes by mistake one battery reversed and caused melting springs. plastic rings can avoid this on the positive end on the PCB. The spring PCB at the negative side should be made with very very big traces for high current!
I’ll be interested if they dump the reflector and go for Carclo optics with 3x4 emitters, and a driver that can supply it plenty of current and still have a great UI. Two emitters options isn’t a bad idea. XP-G2 or G3 for the budget option, and XP-L HI for the lumen hungry, maybe a third Nichia option. Really, just go for one of the BLF drivers. Forget all the development hassles and adopt something that works and is loved.
4 emitters aims it at the Q8, and that’s a battle it’s going to lose. 6 emitters might be 50% better on paper, but barely perceptible by eye. 15k+ lumens would make this light stand out, and Nichia emitters are another way to make it special.
Suggestion added under EDIT 2
Good point this one! I only have a “big” light with multiple batteries but never thought about this! Thanks!
You a little bit misunderstanded me.
For polarity protection it needs plastic rings on the driver that blocks contact with negative side of battery if one reversed.
The big traces is a separate thing. I told it because of the sheer output and current what 6 leds need.
Sorry, I’m getting tired :person_facepalming:
I guess I’ve corrected the information now! (see on “other aspects” and “reverse polarity protection”)
Thanks for the heads up!
Oooh, I’d love to test this puppy… 
I pointed out to Tracy the pause-at-30% like the SP32A has that a few folks grexed about. True dat…
Not sure about the spex. Is it 2S2P as in “4.2V-8.4V”? The contact ring of the Q8 would be fine as long as using button-tops, but you’d need to fix the tube relative to the head just like in the TK4A/SF11 with 2 prongs or a similar keyed mechanism. I’m fine with the Q8 way, as I just got more BTs.
I need-need-need something warmer. I’m getting tired of 5500K and cooler. Throw some 4Cs/4300Ks in there, or some 4500K Nichias. Make a WW option, too. 3000K at night is wooooonderful.
Killer idea? TIRs!!! If you’re machining a solid chunk of aluminum for a reflector, you can just as easily, maybe more so, drill some simple cylindrical wells for some nice 20mm TIRs. Or with a wide enough head, use 26mm TIRs instead of the usual 20mm TIRs. No more fried-egg beams!
With TIRs, you can swap them in/out to your heart’s content! Want a wider flood? Throw some 60°s or 90°s in there. Want a narrower beam for better throw? 10° or even 5° should work wonderfully.
Dunno if any other mfr has done this before, so Sofirn could be the first!
But definitely, warmer colors. 4500K is low-stress on the eyes, and TIRs mixing the colors and all but eliminating tint-shift would really make that shine (haha).