Thanks Lexel,
Now for more reading, BLF is awesome.
Are these KDLIGHTs potted ? Quality wise , are they as good as a Convoy ?
Thanks OKCorey… I feel at home right away when someone mentions “nerd” or “radio shack” :+1:
I’ve made a few assumptions (questions) so far:
— If I “hot rod” me a light, I’m going to go through batteries fast, thus the idea of using two batteries. CAN I treat the batteries: (tape them together) or use some kind of conductive assisting method (a thin walled tube housing— or something like that)?
Lexel… I’ve potted transformers- total mess! But at this scale I’d just use a small amount of epoxy, right? But if potted a C8 50.2 as you suggest, could I use something that was removable (in the event I had to replace it later?) Or, would I just buy a few parts otherwise and keep them handy as I need them perhaps? Any other options in between a loose fit and potting (like putty or aluminum tape)?
OKCorey… On the bezel finish… If going for throw, shouldn’t I be going for a smooth (Vs. textured) finish? I looked at both lights you listed (thanks!)… they both showed a textured bezel, so confused a bit there. Also, 2200 lumens sounds GOOD (on light #2)… so how would this second light compare to the L6? Would the L6 have something this modified C 8.2 doesn’t?
I have a smaller picatinny rail (smooth forward handle has no rail points) and my only option is to use a double sided rail that goes between the two main scope mounts— leaving a 45 degree mount point (about 1.5” long) off either side— under the scope. SO I NEED TO USE a light that I can set into standard 1” or 30mm scope ring mount— so I can work with different lengths to “tune” the light’s distance away from the barrel and scope (at 10 O’ clock as you suggest). OR… if you know of something better with my limitation (no forward rails), I’m interested.
-Russ
I started a thread a while back talking about people who have weapon mounted lights. I posted a few pictures of my setup as well. Check it out: What light do you have mounted to your rifle?
The mount is made by Elzetta, and it works perfectly :+1:
Thanks Yourrld!!! Simple is better… and you have me thinking a totally different route now!
After seeing your rig, I am seriously thinking about mounting this light under my handle and WAY forward (out of the way of everything else including a red dot RMR I WILL be mounting at a 45 angle on the left side at 10 O’ clock between the scope and receiver). The forward free floating handle is perfectly round on my firearm; and it is smooth and goes out 12 1/2” from the receiver. I think I’ll drill and mount a small rail under it where the light could mount— staying behind the barrel’s (18”) muzzle a good bit too.
With this config change… this would ALSO allow me to use a larger light (I was trying to stay SMALL to keep it tight under the scope). I’m guessing the larger the reflector- the longer the range in any case, correct?
So now the C 8.2 is back in for consideration and I’m now wondering how best to “fortify” and “tweak” an 8.2 (or TBD model) best for this hunting rig. This said…if I can spend a bit more for a smaller light to start with (L6), I’d still like to maybe go this route. So the L6 is still on radar as I’m still not sure if I want as large a reflector head out front under the gun. But a clear, even view- at least 40-50 feet wide at 225 yards without donuts… is the goal here.
Thanks all for your ideas so far guys, I REALLY appreciate them! I’m ready to build a real rugged light and want to see out at 225 yards C8.2 or L6 or ??? Ready to solder, pot or do whatever it takes :+1:
for a weapon I would suggest a thrower like C8 with XPL Hi or aspheric Brinythe B158
If you have the standard front sight you might consider a sight mounted rail . I use this in conjunction with a quick detachable scope ring . No pressure switch needed . Rear clicky switch positioned perfectly for thumb activation .
This is a bit more than $30 but worth it to me. Streamlight TLR-1 HPL High Lumen Weapon Mounted Light Only 5.6 ounces and is on my LWRC 6.8mm rig. Recoil kills lights that aren’t built for it, this one is and has a life time warranty. Easy on/off and very small no rings or mounts needed, it’s built in.
Thanks Pennzy, I saw your previous post with these items. I think the quick release will work perfectly given I go with a round light with the right size to fit it (probable).
I knew I posted it before but forgot where . My flashlight was a little small in diameter but a bit of shimming took care of that . I cut a film container to add a little . I may have posted this before here but the light I am using is the Atactical A1S . Rear forward clicky with a side switch . Ar recoil doesn’t bother it . I keep it in highest setting and it stays there . A quick double click on the side switch puts it in strobe . I will never use that . $30 for the light with a USB rechargeable 18650 . Watched a video where the guy beat the snot out of it and it kept on ticking . It is a Thrunite product .
Is that recoil proof ?
Texas S. I appreciate knowing I can buy what I want for light that will hold up really good. But I’m already hooked on building a light at this point. That said, I know I’m getting into the “experimental” category whereas your light is a tested and rugged build for sure. If I were hunting pigs a LOT, I’d probably be willing to up the ante’ but I’m good for about 10 days a year on hogs and hey… it’s an excuse to finally get into a 6.8 
Penzzy, I’ve added shims to many scopes— as long as it can fit it’s good! What would you say your range is with that light? I keep coming back to the idea of hot rodding a smaller light for the range I need. Can this guy get out there past 200 yards???
Since we are already on a relevant topic, will there ever be a production of a budget friendly pistol light?? Seems like the only 2 options as far as pistol lights goes is either your cheap $20 light or $100+ known brand light.
Pistols are abusive as are all guns. The light needs to be solid, small with batteries snug to stop mode changing under recoil. This goes back to who’s pace maker do you want; dirt cheap budget that works most the time or expensive quality that always works. Firearms are part of my job I have to have proven quality. For training cheap unreliable is actually good for failure drills that might happen with the good stuff. As is using dummy cartridges in training. Live firing drills a “click” teaches you to get your weapon back into action. The first almost budget Olight pistol lights kept flying off their mounts. It takes a designer with practical knowledge of his work to make it work. Most countries don’t trust the peasants with guns so they really can’t design the light. Imagine designing a car with no driving experience. Olight is getting better and I’m testing the newer PL-1 and PL-2. But until I get feed back from several sources plus my own extensive use it’s a training light only. That’s my rambling from the soap box, I’ll post some test results in the future.
I find that a layer of electrical tape or a thin layer for silicone between the light and rings helps with the light walking under recoil.
Zappaman , I can’t tell you how far it would work with a scope . I don’t hunt anymore . I will say it lights things up well out to about 100 yards for the naked eye . I’ll have to hold it on a scoped rifle to get an idea .
B158 is recoil proof as the driver is floating on wires in the pill
The normal C8 driver is very reliable and easy to replace, a spare costs you only 3$
Thanks Lexel , that is maybe good for my 12 gauge .
llmatic,
I agree with your assessment of the market. Seems like there are a LOT of product categories out there with EITHER pure junk (think Walmart, Home Depot… etc.) OR you have to pay a ridiculous price to get something decent (that should be made of gold for the price). I always joke with my wife that there is “nothing in the middle” anymore (just like the middle class in America- it’s going away). I’d LIKE to pay a fair price for most durable goods I buy, but I am more and more DYI’ing as I can’t justify the extreme lack of AVERAGE quality we suffer in so many markets.
Off topic, but I shopped a blender for the wife for X-mas. Junk all comes in at under $80. SOME junk comes in well over that (with extra junk “add-ons” she’d never use), then there are the $700 models at Costco if you want a REAL motor with a solid housing— a truly durable blender you’d use the rest of your life. ALL the “retail” outlets sell JUNK or GOLD ($50 or insane $700 models— again… nothing in the middle). I finally went to a restaurant supply house (online) and found a GOOD mixer for $200 shipped and it has the real motor, good warranty and price— I CAN’T find this blender or one like it in ANY mall or larger retailer! :rage:
Thankfully, there is still competition in some markets… including these lights! :+1: And like the wife’s blender, I (like many) want a fair deal and a decent enough product that CAN be relied upon (and sometimes we CAN trade high dollar perfection for the required and occasional service/upgrading needed to end up with a good mid-range product).
Re. Aspheric Brinythe B158— Super thanks Lexel!!!
Re. TShooter’s tip on tape/silicon— that makes perfect sense as I use the same between my scope mounts (on about anything short/med range).
… info like that is GOLD to me right now Keep it coming!!!