I knew I posted it before but forgot where . My flashlight was a little small in diameter but a bit of shimming took care of that . I cut a film container to add a little . I may have posted this before here but the light I am using is the Atactical A1S . Rear forward clicky with a side switch . Ar recoil doesn’t bother it . I keep it in highest setting and it stays there . A quick double click on the side switch puts it in strobe . I will never use that . $30 for the light with a USB rechargeable 18650 . Watched a video where the guy beat the snot out of it and it kept on ticking . It is a Thrunite product .
Is that recoil proof ?
Texas S. I appreciate knowing I can buy what I want for light that will hold up really good. But I’m already hooked on building a light at this point. That said, I know I’m getting into the “experimental” category whereas your light is a tested and rugged build for sure. If I were hunting pigs a LOT, I’d probably be willing to up the ante’ but I’m good for about 10 days a year on hogs and hey… it’s an excuse to finally get into a 6.8 
Penzzy, I’ve added shims to many scopes— as long as it can fit it’s good! What would you say your range is with that light? I keep coming back to the idea of hot rodding a smaller light for the range I need. Can this guy get out there past 200 yards???
Since we are already on a relevant topic, will there ever be a production of a budget friendly pistol light?? Seems like the only 2 options as far as pistol lights goes is either your cheap $20 light or $100+ known brand light.
Pistols are abusive as are all guns. The light needs to be solid, small with batteries snug to stop mode changing under recoil. This goes back to who’s pace maker do you want; dirt cheap budget that works most the time or expensive quality that always works. Firearms are part of my job I have to have proven quality. For training cheap unreliable is actually good for failure drills that might happen with the good stuff. As is using dummy cartridges in training. Live firing drills a “click” teaches you to get your weapon back into action. The first almost budget Olight pistol lights kept flying off their mounts. It takes a designer with practical knowledge of his work to make it work. Most countries don’t trust the peasants with guns so they really can’t design the light. Imagine designing a car with no driving experience. Olight is getting better and I’m testing the newer PL-1 and PL-2. But until I get feed back from several sources plus my own extensive use it’s a training light only. That’s my rambling from the soap box, I’ll post some test results in the future.
I find that a layer of electrical tape or a thin layer for silicone between the light and rings helps with the light walking under recoil.
Zappaman , I can’t tell you how far it would work with a scope . I don’t hunt anymore . I will say it lights things up well out to about 100 yards for the naked eye . I’ll have to hold it on a scoped rifle to get an idea .
B158 is recoil proof as the driver is floating on wires in the pill
The normal C8 driver is very reliable and easy to replace, a spare costs you only 3$
Thanks Lexel , that is maybe good for my 12 gauge .
llmatic,
I agree with your assessment of the market. Seems like there are a LOT of product categories out there with EITHER pure junk (think Walmart, Home Depot… etc.) OR you have to pay a ridiculous price to get something decent (that should be made of gold for the price). I always joke with my wife that there is “nothing in the middle” anymore (just like the middle class in America- it’s going away). I’d LIKE to pay a fair price for most durable goods I buy, but I am more and more DYI’ing as I can’t justify the extreme lack of AVERAGE quality we suffer in so many markets.
Off topic, but I shopped a blender for the wife for X-mas. Junk all comes in at under $80. SOME junk comes in well over that (with extra junk “add-ons” she’d never use), then there are the $700 models at Costco if you want a REAL motor with a solid housing— a truly durable blender you’d use the rest of your life. ALL the “retail” outlets sell JUNK or GOLD ($50 or insane $700 models— again… nothing in the middle). I finally went to a restaurant supply house (online) and found a GOOD mixer for $200 shipped and it has the real motor, good warranty and price— I CAN’T find this blender or one like it in ANY mall or larger retailer! :rage:
Thankfully, there is still competition in some markets… including these lights! :+1: And like the wife’s blender, I (like many) want a fair deal and a decent enough product that CAN be relied upon (and sometimes we CAN trade high dollar perfection for the required and occasional service/upgrading needed to end up with a good mid-range product).
Re. Aspheric Brinythe B158— Super thanks Lexel!!!
Re. TShooter’s tip on tape/silicon— that makes perfect sense as I use the same between my scope mounts (on about anything short/med range).
… info like that is GOLD to me right now Keep it coming!!!
So Lexel… above you mention I could run Buscotti OR “get out the driver for XLP HI” (not sure what you mean here).
But your suggestion of the Aspheric Brinythe B158 has my interest and I’d like to ask you to further expand on these ideas above using the B158 if you would? I’m wanting the highest output I can mod with just “on/off” function from a pressure switch. I can carry batteries, so how far might I push this light with one good 18650???
I have my Convoy C8 on Browning BAR 30-06 with over 1000 rounds fired and no problem at all.
Don’t know about shotguns.
[quote=XXX-Man]
I have my Convoy C8 on Browning BAR 30-06 with over 1000 rounds fired and do problem at all.
Ya, after spending some time researching all options, the C8 is looking like the most used light for tactical “modders”. I’m still processing a few ideas from you guys and keep coming back to how best to get to 225 yards (my effective range with my rifle) and like most (I suppose), I’m looking for the best “bang for buck” (that would be three puns if I were hunting deer, right?) 
I finally realized the L6 is too heavy for me too. I’m (now) planning on mounting the light pretty far forward of my rail and so weight is an issue as the front of my YHM 6.8SPC is ALREADY heavy as it is. So I’m still interested in the C8.2 sized (or slightly smaller reflector) in the form factor I go with… IF I can get it modded to work at my required distance.
I am hoping someone has done a serious “mod job” on one of these smaller lights known to hold up to recoil. The Brinyte B158 mod review posted by mhanlen a few years ago got my attention— and his mod video posted with the review was telling of what a good mod job can do. If I could get that light and do a custom mod (but with the latest stuff available), I’d be happy. But being a newb… I dunno squat!!!
— so why I’m here begging for more info :student:
I have XP-L HI in my C8 and 200m (about 220 yards if I am correct?) is no problem to me.
L6 is too heavy for rifle IMHO. I can even feel C8 weight.
Link? The Vitamix 5200 was $299 on Amazon recently but I missed it.
This means no driver in the flashlights head, just a MOSFET with a coin battery for the remote tail switch on my special board
you can swap out the remote switch with normal one at any time, just removing the retaining ring
The battery lasts for a couple hundred hours you press the button
Of course the battery holder needs to be reinforced with some glue, as the board is 1mm less wide that the C8 Tail ring you can use the glue on the rim of it, so it sticks super good
strain relief added with a wire tie
normal remote switches have a massive reduce on current in DD lights, so I made one with a 3mOhms FET
If you’re looking for a smaller reflector, a Convoy M1 might work. Not sure on the exact range of this and it comes standard with an orange peel reflector but I’m sure you could get a smooth reflector for it somewhere. Personally, I prefer the size and heatsink of the M1 to the C8 but the smaller reflector will reduce the throw of the light.
Thanks JJax… I am finally down to wanting whatever light I choose to have at least a 2” reflector and HXP-70 LED. The NEW Acebeam L-30 has the specs I want in it, BUT a pressure switch option is an unknown still. The L-30 CAN ALSO run on an 18650… but the newer 20700 makes it shine — and has the newer HXP-70.2 LED!
I am wondering IF I could mod the Brinyte B158 Zoomer with an HPX-70.2 using his mosfet/Li battery tail switch board Lexel makes. Oh, and it would be REALLY cool if I could fit a 20700 battery IN the Brinyte B158 too. 
Lexel… you suggested the Brinyte B158 as a good tactical mount/pressure switch option. Would your switch “fit” this light and could I use the HXP-70.2 (and maybe even a 20700 battery in there???
I’ve got the L30 and L16 from Acebeam. The L16 throws better with a great hot spot, the L30 throws well with massive flood. Neither can take a pressure switch due to the twin conduction tubes.