What did you mod today?

I mean it was putting out plenty of energy to cause that damage.
It’s more than likely fine.

I have had the same thing happen before. Unless you had the short going for some time , the driver and cell both should be OK. You may have lost a little bit of life off the cell by raising the Internal resistance slightly if anything.

If you haven’t already tested it ,you can get a more controlled result if you have a short jumper wire and just hold it against the end of the tube and the negative end of the cell and then have someone hit the side switch to see if everything is working OK before you put the tailcap on the light. This way if the light does still have a short or anything you can break the connection much quicker than trying to get the tailcap back off.

I would say the battery should be OK if its not getting hot shorting too long, the weak link is the spring and switch

2 26650 Keeppower High Drain cells shorted you look likely at up to 100 amps no wonder spring and switch quit

Those batteries have IR of like 20mOhms, maybe another 30-40mOhms on wires and spring bypass

so we got like 8V on 60mOhms

if the original DTP board does not fit the size of the new you always can drill a hole in the shelf and simply twist one of those self cutting screws in it that are often used in plastic cases if you got no thread cutters

I had the rotating star also a few times, cutting in the wires, never turned out good melting some stuff

You can check the driver if the LED- pad has a very low resistance to ground ring the short created that voltage spike and blew the AMCs, but this usually happens only if the driver had the gate of the AMCs activated

How it cutted the wire? Did you use screws to secure MCPCB? It should not spin. I noticed the hole misalignment on KD stars too and I always grind the MCPCB wire cutouts bigger to fit like this:

Ah i may do this to my star.

i soldered the wires to MCPCB then to fit the screws in i had to turn the MCPCB, im guessing thats when they cut. kicking myself now

Now that I showed my led I show the complete build. I made it yesterday. It draws 17.6A and puts out 7800 lumens. I’m still waiting for SMO reflector.


I tried to make the button light show the Hungarian flag colors (red, white, green) but in dark it only shows the red and green because I can’t put white leds in center.


Moon:

Not moon :slight_smile:


That’s Beautiful ZozzV6 and everything I want mine to be. nice build :smiley: :+1:

Thanks! I had the driver half year ago. Just now got the led and the one L6 of the three that I decided to keep.

I used caustic soda in cold water to remove the anodizing :+1:

Here are the links to a previous experience that reports the overall process:

Today, after that I used a dremmel -like tool with a metal “brush disc” to make it more shinny!
And…this may sound strange, but not having something “good” to polish it, I used tooth paste and a tooth brush to clean it after using the dremmel disc :zipper_mouth_face: Not bad, but not the best method, for sure :wink:

BLF GT Modified…….De-domed E4 XHP35A-00-0000-0D00E40E1 That I purchased from here… Cree XLamp XHP35 High Density LEDs I bought the triple and de-domed all three.

Boosted the driver with a R075 for 3.01amps at the emitter. De tuned with 4.5’’ long Tinergy 24awg leads I reduced the current pull to 2.76-2.78amps at the emitter, where my Light Meter stayed steady. (Ghetto Tuned)

I marked the leads at what I thought were 1/2’’ lines, but they were 1’’ lines, and dropped the driver, unsolder the leads, snipped (a 1/2” at at time then a 1/4’’ when I got closer) then soldered the leads to test, till I got the desired pull (current increase) from the driver, and the light meter didn’t increase, Never upsetting the reflector/head set-up.

Played with a 12v XHP70 while I was at it…

Does it throw better than XHP35 HI E2?

Yep when both drivers were stock, and both being CW, according to my light meter.

And now the E4 is boosted, YEP! Possibly more LUX gain when I shave the centering ring bar down, I opened up the holes in the bar and mcpcb slightly to allow more float, kept the mcpcb screws slightly loose, the spot didn’t look right after the re-flow, it needed better centering, loosened the head and tightened it a few times, floated it in, the spot looks great now crisper! It’s a Massive reflector, so any misalignment your going to see it, so is the meter!

You’ll see when you get yours and start messing with it…

Dropped a TA driver from Lexel into my MF01 today. Now I have no problems with the light. The UI is amazing I wish more lights came with such intuitive firmware that makes sense, but maybe it will happen now that Emisar and the BLF Q8 are out there. The LEDs are being driven as they should be and the light becomes too hot to touch at 30 seconds then holds heat for at least 4 minutes. With my approximating shoe box I’m reading around 15,000 lumens. That makes it twice as bright as my Q8 after bypasses and TLC.

BLF GT XHP70.2 Used the SD75 6volt XHP70 MCPCB and 2xSD75 (2S2P 8.4v) battery carriers in series, had to modify slightly to make the 2S (-) connection on the carriers, spring bypass’s. Running a Modified 30mm Hyperion FETDD (https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bsc009ne2ls5atma1/infineon-technologies-ag) Simple 5 modes, 18awg leads 20+ amps at the emitter depending on batteries. seen as high as 21.7amps VTC5A’s but running 8x30Q’s 20.2amps.

So far I have run these emitters thru the GT, and I’m not happy with them…the 5700k isn’t too bad, but I have 3 other emitter I’m going to try out,see if they work/look better……the XHP70B01D0BP240E to me looks like the exact tint that the Stock BLF GT XHP35HI NW 4000k looks like, if your into that flavor?

As a added bonus, the GT’s MCPCB fits the SD75 so I built one more SD75 XHP35 HI using Lexels E2-3A that I had in this GT before I converted it to XHP70.2

Really like the XHP35 HI E4-3A I purchased from Lexel, first time I have ever seen or used this bin/tint in a build, I should of purchased a couple more!!! :person_facepalming:

Yes, you should have, then sent me a few. :stuck_out_tongue:

Nice work Kawi, very elaborate exchanges, still need some beam shots though. :slight_smile:

Today I putted in an SST40 in my heat colored L2 and TA OTSM 20mm driver. Still need to replace switch with a reverse clicky and make orange lighted tailcap and make some photos and beamshots from the end result.

And here is my shorty clear S2+ with stainless button with blue lighted tailcap and screw clip.

Nice looking shorty S2+ ZozzV6! What did you use for the lighted switch?

Same things and preparations as in this build
Some correction : You doesn’t need to grind down the steel button lower edge for clearance. it is good for more light coming out.
On the left grinded button with six led board. On the right stock button 2 led board:

For more info see” this topic
“:D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Another standard Convoy S2+ mod. This one with an RMM 3 amp Moonlight Special driver and a Nichia 90+ CRI LED, but with a couple noteworthy (read time consuming) enhancements.

First, I trimmed down the driver retainer ring so I could screw down the driver rather than solder it in.

Second, I added a green lighted switch (read the most time consuming part).

I really like the warmer 4,000K tint that the Nichia LED produces. And considering how small the flashlight is, it still throws pretty well.

Here’s a link to my build (which I wrote to try to encourage others to consider modding): Convoy S2+ Mod With A Lighted Switch