Interested, thanks.
Interested in both 
Anyone received the Cu version yet?
Yes and it is quite nice!!
Interested
Never share your pics? 
Mine finally arrived. I got 2 in Ti. One seems to flicker on max output, battery is fully charged 
I tried to capture on a video but its quite difficult, you can see a bit after 4 seconds.
Its a nice little light, but doesn’t seem brighter than my Olight S1 that is 500lm.
interested
A few days in and i already broke the damb thing, was hoping to put a ramping ui on it to fix the bad levels, stuck my circlip pliers in an twisted, ripping a few parts of the board.
notice the retaining ring is recessed and clamps right onto the components, if ya gonna open just go very shallow.
perhaps i will give up on flashlight and collect something i cant screw up, any ideas
Repair will be rather challenging. [quote=Spud] A few days in and i already broke the damb thing, was hoping to put a ramping ui on it to fix the bad levels, stuck my circlip pliers in an twisted, ripping a few parts of the board. notice the retaining ring is recessed and clamps right onto the components, if ya gonna open just go very shallow. !{width:40%}https://i.imgur.com/8tdumUm.jpg?1!:https://i.imgur.com/8tdumUm.jpg?1 !{width:40%}https://i.imgur.com/wOxbfOh.jpg?1!:https://i.imgur.com/wOxbfOh.jpg?1 perhaps i will give up on flashlight and collect something i cant screw up, any ideas [/quote]
Got my Mi1C Cu in finally. I paid for faster shipping and tracking, and BG gave me neither.
Nice little light. I don’t mind the mode levels at all. Just as bright as the Olight S1. The S1 with a TIR is more flood. The Mi1C Cu has a small shallow OP reflector, and using the XPL-HI, it throws the beam much better, and has a wide spill. Best of both worlds IMO.
Removed the clip since I don’t use clips on any lights.
I like the shallow reflector as well, surprisingly for a reflector that is hardly there, it produces a clear hotspot. I have some E21A’s in 2000K R9050 underway from Clemence, one is going in this light, for a candlelight-warm tint.
Did you mange to get the driver out? If you have any more pics Id love to see them or can you take a pic with the driver out.
Trying to come up with a plan on how to mod this thing. I already modded the Klarus Mi7 ti with a nanjg 105c Using a slave board, might also apply here.
Thanks Spud.
Looks like R050 is a sense resistor, one way to mod. I noticed there is little plastic sleeves around the led out wires. There must be a few mm of room behind the driver? If there’s enough room behind the Klarus driver to fit a nanjg or similar driver then (slave master) will work and then we can program what ever modes we want and current. 
Looks like the switch is using two outside legs for mounting and the two inside for the connections. If it is then the stock switch could be used with the original mounting spot. No need to relocate just solder wires to the two inside legs and to the master board. Stripping the original board of coarse.
Im afraid not, a relief has been cut into the shelf for the switch, not a hairs width has been left in this little thing.
I guess the resistor mod maybe it then. Any pointers on how to get the driver out without damage.
other than to go extremely shallow with your chosen tool for removing the plastic driver retaining ring.
other than that, by the numbers. you will have to remove the figure 8 earth tho, wont make it through the hole.