I also go with BLF A6 when getting the MTN FET + 7135 driver. It’s easy to quickly switch through the modes and the strobe, battery check (<which guppy doesn’t include), bicycle flasher are hidden so you don’t end up with those unless you want them.
There is a thread with references to many flashlight firmwares:
This is going to be my go to driver from now on…love the options on the BLF A6 driver
@WarHawk, Are you using this on all of your lights? what lights did you choose to use this one on. What options do you like the most about the BLF A6?
I use the FET with the standard firmware modes with memory and low voltage protection.
Mode Levels: Moonlight - 2% - 5% - 20% - 50% - 100%
Have used guppy before, but I end up picking that mode group anyway.
No, I have several running on Nanjg 105D 8x so about 2.8A output, most with older firmware…I really like the new A6 firmware (so many awesome modes) plus in the higher modes…it really drives the lights to their full potential…
Truthfully the MOSFET A6 driver is built less complicated than the 105D variants…even though the modes can be a bit daunting once you figure out the button sequence to modify modes and whatnot it’s a MUCH better option
I’m going to go ahead and order 2 of those above and upgrade my triple that I finally got running
Sorry to bother you, been reading this thread and already have the BLF-X6X5 driver. I’m a bit unsure too but want to make a triple, when buying the led’s on the board, do I need them in parallel or series for this driver?
Also does anyone know anything about those optics you get with the board/led’s from Kaidomain?
For BLF Fet driver you need all leds to be in parallel
As per optics there are several types and the main difference is the angle of light coming out of them, clear one like in your image will give you lowest dissipation angle which means best throw, frosted lense will spread light more evenly but you will loose on throw
Thank you for your reply 
This is fascinating stuff. I just got an S2+ for this very reason. Following…
Also, you will need to drill a hole in the center of your S2+ pill for wires 
I’m also in the process of building a triple. I got a S2 host, but I’m not super happy with it, so I ordered a S8 which is in the mail.
I bought the carlco 10509 frosted wide optic and I like it a ton. Makes a wall of light which is perfect for my use case.
I also got the KD triple board(nichia 219c) and the optics on that are much more focused, but still very floody compared to my single emitter lights.
Also the KD board is much thinner than the noctigon 3xp and the lens’ legs protrude from the bottom. Had to snip them a little bit so the lens would put a bit of pressure on the MCPCB/spacer connection. And the carlco optics do not fit the board either, different leg sizes. Will be using the 3XP with the 10509 in my final build.
What size hole does everyone use for this? Should it be a chamfer hole also?
Thanks
Where did you pick up the 10509 at? I looked on a couple places and they are sold out.
i just drilled the hole the same diameter as the spacer
Me to, easier to use the spacer as a guide instead of trying to guess where the center is.
I think diameter is about 4mm!
So I also picked up one of the small tubes to use an 18350 and I can’t get the light to work with the 18350, works fine with the 18650 but not the other way. Anyone have an idea on what it could be causing it? It makes no sense to me at all.
The springs are in contact with the battery?
Are you using the 18350 tube with the non anodized edge towards the tailcap and the non anodized threads towards the top?
I guess that if you are into building your S2+ collection, that could be a motivation to use the S2+ , and of course the S2+ is a very cheap host, but despite having an extensive S2+ triple line-up, ever since the Jaxman E2L host became available it has been my choice for building triples: superior performance and easier to build, and it looks better too (I love SS bezels).
Btw, if one decides on the E2L, be sure to buy the host version, the ready-made E2L’s have an almost un-removable glued ledboard.