Yes, they are only 12V.
And AFAIK 12V boost driver is still significantly more efficient than a linear one….
Yeah, the tint of the XP-L is better (especially if you use an XP-L HI), and for most uses, the increased output of the XP-L2 isn’t worth the faster stepdown and worse tint shift. Likewise, the XHP35 also has to deal with increased heat generation, leading to faster stepdowns, compared to the XP-L.
The XP-L HI is still my favorite Cree emitter, and I think the XP-L HD (slightly more output) or HI (more throw) are still the most practical options for a straight body light. But the XHP35 HI is nice if you are looking for a thrower in 26650 or multi-18650 configurations. If you are looking for a hotrod, and don’t want to use a triple or quad setup, the XHP50.2 in the 6V configuration could have a niche use.
BTW. as to XP-L2:
At all but the lowest currents, XHP35 is more efficient.
That’s not the case with Samsung LH351D though.
Quite the opposite…. XHP35 is more efficient at modes other than low and always uses an efficient driver. This means that for any given output (other than low) it uses less power. And therefore generates less heat. And therefore overheats slower.
I’m curious as to how efficient the XHP35 drivers used in straight body lights really are. Reviews of the Klarus XT2CR, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, and other straight body lights using the XHP35 seem to show they fall short of their claimed lumen outputs, and struggle with fast thermal stepdowns. XHP35 lights with multiple cells in series seem to have fewer issues. My best guess is they are struggling to build a boost driver that can boost a single cell to 12V efficiently while fitting in such a small package.
And relative to the XP-L, some of the increased heat generation is simply going to be due to higher output - even if the XHP35 is more efficient, if it is putting out 1600 lumens compared to 1200 from an XP-L, you are going to get more heat.
I recently bought a Zebralight SC600w MkIV HI. It uses a XHP35 HI emitter. It seems very efficient, although Zebralight is known for efficiency.
So, you don’t have to mod a light. You can buy one stock.
As far as performance goes, it’s doesn’t have quite as much output as a XP-L HI light using a FET driver (and a high-drain battery). But, Zebralight runs the LED within spec, so it’s very efficient, and relatively constant-output.
Zebralight seems to be the exception. With the MkIII lineup, they were only aiming for ~1300 lumens out of the XHP35, while others were claiming 1600+ lumens. It looks like they are pushing their current lights a little harder. Would be interesting to see a review of the SC600 MkIV or SC64 by somebody with an integrating sphere to see how close they are getting to their target.
Yeah I’ve been looking at the SC600w MkIV Plus with XHP50.2 (2300lm) Very interesting flashlight, only 96mm long.
Exactly the same body as the one you bought, but much more output (and much more than an XP-L HI light using a FET driver and a high-drain battery). I’m thinking it may also have good efficiency / constant-output, being a ZL as you said.
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I’m aware that you can buy one: 
However, most are quite pricey, in the $100 range, there are a few that can be had for < $50 but no NW version for those ones.
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The purpose of this thread was more specifically about getting one of these emitters into a “Straight” Tube style light such as (S2+ S3 etc.) using a single cell, along with the possibility of building one with a NW emitter for around $50 or so. Plus I enjoy building things and the satisfaction that comes with it, even if it’s only assembling from off the shelf parts. 
Yes, I considered that one when I was buying a couple of weeks ago. Looks very nice, although I decided it would be too floody for my intended purpose. I already have a few other Zebralights, and they’re generally pretty floody lights to begin with. The SC600 Plus model is even more floody than standard.
It is supposed to be their most efficient light, though.
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Ah, okay, yes that makes sense. You want an S2+ host, and a new driver and led combo. I’m not aware of any drivers that would fit, but I’m sure they must be out there.
Thanks TBone, this is exactly what I’m looking for, no time to try at the moment but hopefully I will be able to translate it with google.
Khas has also pointed me to a post where the H1-A was also stuffed into an S2+ (thanks Khas)
I also had the Desert Tan color S2+ in mind.
Or the S3 because I really like the SS bezel.
But it may be too hard (or impossible) to do with the S3 because of its integral LED shelf?
Also not sure if there’s actually any benefit for thermal management with the integral LED shelf vs the brass pill?
As Khas also pointed out to me, the Shoki / Lexel 17mm BLF 1S 6-12V Boost driver is in progress, so that should be perfect for this.
I think something like an MT-G2 or XHP50 would be very desirable in something like an S2+ so I don’t think it’s silly to try it.
I hope you do a mod thread if you ever go through with it because it is something I plan to get to eventually when I have more time.
Whenever I use Google Translate on TLF it does translate but all the photos disappear.
Anyone know how to fix that or another way to translate and keep the photos? I’m using Firefox.
Same problem here. Sorry.
Maybe you can copy each post with pictures to Word and translate the there.
Have you tried using Chrome instead? Google Translate is integrated with Chrome.
I just tried it with your link and it worked. I’m using MacOS but it should be the same on Windows or linux.
Thanks for letting us know that works, I don’t have Chrome installed but thinking about installing it now.
Try bing translator, I’m using Firefox and I can see the photos of the translated pages
Worked for me with Bing…Thanks!!!
XHP50.2 doesn’t focus well in reflectors this small, It is great though if you want a floody light. XHP50.2 also doesn’t have any hole issues with 20mm smooth reflectors, but this led does have tint shift like xpg3. You might have thermal issues and current resistance issues depending on how hard you want to drive it. With a single cell boost driver, your tail switch current will be very high. You might want to consider a side switch host.