It can't hurt. The biggest reason I wanted one was just to keep dirt and dust off it but I have been thinking about something similar to give added protection. If you use any kind of wood I would recommend painting or sealing it to get rid of the dust from it.
Post #5 has a new completed list of all the sign up requests.
You are shown as requests #1215, #1216 and #1762.
This list is not showing whether or not you want batteries, though. Anyone wanting a set of 8 batteries can easily add them to their shopping cart at the same time as they order their GT.
For those curious about the best way to remove the switch cover, a pair of snap ring pliers is your best friend. I have a set with multiple tips that can apply force in both directions. This style of plier (the blue one) can both squeeze together or squeeze apart.
It a 19mm diameter cob style led. $379 without the heatsink. It has a 35 to 39 volt input and does about 450 watts.
It would not be suitable for any type of thrower as the hotspot would be huge. You would probably get 500 to 600 meters from it in the GT (my rough guess).
This is a standard Narsil feature, but it should have been in the manual anyway. Just added this to the FAQ in the support thread:
The GT has low voltage warning and shut-off. At what battery voltages does this happen?
At 12.0 V (3.0 V per cell) the GT will blink the main LED and step down in power. It will do this repeatedly until the battery voltage recovers above 12 V.
At 11.2 V (2.8 V per cell) the GT will blink rapidly and shut down the main LED.
Note that these voltages can be ~0.05 V per cell off in either direction, depending on the component tolerances and temperature. These voltages are monitored under load and cells will read higher when removed and measured outside the light.
These numbers are from the NarsilM 1.2 source code, but I did also confirm them using a power supply on a production light.
I’ll complain. LOL. I don’t see any OP in my reflector. I do see turning marks, kind of, barely. Programming and equipment… which is fine for the application. I’ve been spoiled with nothing but Okuma lathes. The old LC20 (mid 1980s) could keep that profile or better. The newish LB3000 EXII with live tooling is amazing.
Does anyone know how the reflector is finished? Is it plated or electro polished? If it’s electro polishing the OP effect is the result of cooking it a little too long.
You could also get thicker neoprene foam insulation and glue it in. I’ve seen it up to 1” thick. What I saw was used for pipe insulation. I would think hard substances would just transmit any shock directly to the lens where something cushioning would prevent it from getting to the lens. Heck, a piece of the packing would do the job, but I don’t know if it could be glued in place. Loose would also work I should think.
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FWIW, I don’t know if there were complaints. Maybe one, but I didn’t take it as a complaint (I didn’t see the above post). I know my comment regarding the small OP effect wasn’t a complaint; it was merely an observation.
TBC, you could sell your light if you’re unhappy with it and the price paid for it. There would be plenty of folks who missed the cutoff who would be happy to take it off of your hands. That would free you up to but the light of your choice made with the lathe of your choice.