[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

His requests for 2 and then 1 more were back in November.

Ammo click on your name and then “my posts”.

Yep

First request: [PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping. - #8338 by ammofox

And additional request for a 3rd GT: [PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping. - #9272 by ammofox

It can't hurt. The biggest reason I wanted one was just to keep dirt and dust off it but I have been thinking about something similar to give added protection. If you use any kind of wood I would recommend painting or sealing it to get rid of the dust from it.

Ah ok, sorry. I was just going by him saying he contacted them on the 8th…

I plan to do the same thing but use a piece of plexiglass instead of wood

you are on the list for 3 lights

ammofox [1215 1216 1762]

you will receive a pm in late january about payment and shipping

do not worry you ARE on the list.

if you go to the first post then press ctrl+f and enter your username you will find yourself on the list.

Just look at page one of this thread.

Post #5 has a new completed list of all the sign up requests.

You are shown as requests #1215, #1216 and #1762.

This list is not showing whether or not you want batteries, though. Anyone wanting a set of 8 batteries can easily add them to their shopping cart at the same time as they order their GT.

For those curious about the best way to remove the switch cover, a pair of snap ring pliers is your best friend. I have a set with multiple tips that can apply force in both directions. This style of plier (the blue one) can both squeeze together or squeeze apart.

They are only $4.99 at Harbor Freight Tools.

These are not super high quality, but I doubt you will use them very often. Every flashlight modder should have a set.

I’ll have a handle proto tomorrow. Had some water freezing issues and a 44,000psi leak to deal with Monday - Tuesday. Played catch up today.

It a 19mm diameter cob style led. $379 without the heatsink. It has a 35 to 39 volt input and does about 450 watts.

It would not be suitable for any type of thrower as the hotspot would be huge. You would probably get 500 to 600 meters from it in the GT (my rough guess).

Good lord! Makes the cft90 look like a spot of mustard on a white shirt. Thanks for the link. Teats on a boar hog.

Im dying in anticipation,
So many great reports from those who have there gt’s
Im in the next 500 i hope,
Even though i havent recieved mine yet

I would like to ask for a second if its possible

This is a standard Narsil feature, but it should have been in the manual anyway. Just added this to the FAQ in the support thread:

  • The GT has low voltage warning and shut-off. At what battery voltages does this happen?
    • At 12.0 V (3.0 V per cell) the GT will blink the main LED and step down in power. It will do this repeatedly until the battery voltage recovers above 12 V.
    • At 11.2 V (2.8 V per cell) the GT will blink rapidly and shut down the main LED.
      Note that these voltages can be ~0.05 V per cell off in either direction, depending on the component tolerances and temperature. These voltages are monitored under load and cells will read higher when removed and measured outside the light.

These numbers are from the NarsilM 1.2 source code, but I did also confirm them using a power supply on a production light.

Thanks for posting, hope the reflector complaining goes down after seeing this. Have to blow up this picture to see good.

what exif viewer is that ?

I use medical hemostats to remove button retention rings. If the ring needs more force, I use mini needle nose pliers.

Click here for full size picture.

I’ll complain. LOL. I don’t see any OP in my reflector. I do see turning marks, kind of, barely. Programming and equipment… which is fine for the application. I’ve been spoiled with nothing but Okuma lathes. The old LC20 (mid 1980s) could keep that profile or better. The newish LB3000 EXII with live tooling is amazing.

Does anyone know how the reflector is finished? Is it plated or electro polished? If it’s electro polishing the OP effect is the result of cooking it a little too long.

You could also get thicker neoprene foam insulation and glue it in. I’ve seen it up to 1” thick. What I saw was used for pipe insulation. I would think hard substances would just transmit any shock directly to the lens where something cushioning would prevent it from getting to the lens. Heck, a piece of the packing would do the job, but I don’t know if it could be glued in place. Loose would also work I should think.
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FWIW, I don’t know if there were complaints. Maybe one, but I didn’t take it as a complaint (I didn’t see the above post). I know my comment regarding the small OP effect wasn’t a complaint; it was merely an observation.

TBC, you could sell your light if you’re unhappy with it and the price paid for it. There would be plenty of folks who missed the cutoff who would be happy to take it off of your hands. That would free you up to but the light of your choice made with the lathe of your choice.

I assumed it was physical vapor deposition (PVD) as most modern reflectors are. Maybe one of the Team members knows for sure and can clarify it.