My first two GT`s arrived yesterday in Munich, Germany. No batteries with DHL.
Thanks to all.
Robert
My first two GT`s arrived yesterday in Munich, Germany. No batteries with DHL.
Thanks to all.
Robert
My switch cover looks exactly the same. Green leds do not light up.
I am not new to flashlights. So I could remove the driver and see if there are any issues. But it would void the warranty.
Can anyone tell me what the max beam intensity for it?
i didn’t follow the thread
I have some news on emitter swaps.
I talked to Richard at Mountain Electronics (RMM on these forums and a sponsor here) and told him there might be more than a few guys with GT’S interested in swapping to a cooler tint. He says that if you send in your stock mcpcb to him and buy one of his new XHP35-HI emitters, he will reflow it for free! He has 2 choices right now, 5,000k and 5700k tint. They are both the same D4 brightness bin as the stock GT 4000k emitter.
The cost of both are under $8, plus the shipping cost there and back. I’m in Texas and shipping a small package from him is usually $2 to $3. So I would estimate the entire cost at under $15.
From his store:
BLF GT LED SWAP
Don’t like the tint of your BLF GT XHP35 HI? Send us your MCPCB and we’ll swap it for this one.
Please ship your BLF GT MCPCB to us and we will swap it, test it, clean it, and send it back to you.
Your entire order will not ship until we receive the LED and get it ready to ship.
Ship to:
Mountain Electronics LLC
8076 S. Box Canyon Rd.
West Jordan, UT 84081
Here is the link to the 5000k.
Here is the link to the 5700k.
If your outside of the USA, then I’m not sure what shipping would be or if he even does international shipping. You’d have to contact him for details.
Can anyone tell me what the max beam intensity for it?
i didn’t follow the thread
It’s from 1,1 to 1,3 mcd
Can anyone tell me what the max beam intensity for it?
i didn’t follow the thread
When Vestureofblood tested the prototype it was 1,290,000 cd.
Once again if there is anything important I missed, point it out to me.
For the reflector quality questions, we are looking into it. I am waiting for a reply about it now.
It was only pointed out to me yesterday, so give it some time, it is being worked on.
So far most of the reflector pictures I have seen were no worse then the V1 prototype reflector, which we had approved as being ok and also what got the 1.29mcd throw reading from VOB. If the quality is at least up to that level, there is no need to worry about it. We had agreed that it was acceptable when we saw it and nothing has changed now.
Lumintop was nice enough to try to improve the quality, this was purely a bonus for us but it has caused big delays in the production.
Which is where this thread actually plays a role I am afraid.
Lumintop is watching this thread, they do not speak english very well but enough to get the general idea.
When every other post is someone complaining that their GT has not shipped it sends a message that they should focus on quantity over quality and get them shipped out the door.
Can’t really blame them, I would even have to consider such a move in their shoes if I was reading this thread.
The fact is you can’t have it both ways, they can ship out faster with the V1 quality reflectors or it will be done when it is done.
People need to send a clear message one way or the other. Either they want it done now and are willing to accept the faster machined reflectors that come with that or they want the highest quality possible regardless of how long it takes.
They are not getting a “pass” on bad quality. The agreed upon quality was the V1 reflector, anything else was a bonus.
Now I am looking into the pictures and reports of the reflectors to see if any are not up to even the V1 quality standards. So far I have not seen any that are noticeably worse but I once again have only known about it for one day.
If you have a suspect reflector, please PM me a picture of it.
Far as shipping me a bad reflector, I will not be doing that on a mass scale, just no point.
That said if someone wants to send a suspect reflector and is willing to pay return shipping, I can install it in my light and compare the lux readings to see what kind of difference it makes. My guess is it will be a negligible difference within the margin for error of the test setup but I could be wrong.
I mean I have seen tests before between SMO and full on OP reflectors that showed only minor difference in lux readings.
Well put Texas_ace…
I would prefer a better quality with a slower shipping time.
I just bought 8 new lights over this past month. With that said, I’m in no hurry to get chewed out by my wife for buying another flashlight…! Especially one that’s not gonna be easy to hide…
Just glad to be in on the group buy list and looking forward to making payment!
Take your time Lumintop, the better the quality the more you will sell down the road!
This a flagship of a light!
My first two GT`s arrived yesterday in Munich, Germany. No batteries with DHL.
Thanks to all.Robert
I added you to our current list of international recipients.
(These are paid list numbers)
Bruno28 #12
cypher1024 #57
FMC #78
Sirius9 #79
Yokiamy #128
Hunter1 #129
Bo4ka #144
Bozlight29 #148
Flasky #149
Hardware #174
Yoflash #178
Alux #180
Warzi1975 #181 and #483
DooMMasteR #193
Jaza #202
piotrek966 #266
Specialk #292
Nicolicous #380
Bking #515
Bobtb #637
Thank you!
Jason
JasonWW: Bo4ka:@DB Custom and lawallac
thanks, but no result. Switch cover is definitely not opaque, I unscrewed it.
It must be lighted, at least after successfull factory reset.Let me see if I can understand.
You never saw any green light from the switch, even though the main led works fine?
You were able to unscrew the switch cover, but it is or isn’t opaque?
Opaque meaning solid, so no light gets through.
It should look like this:
If light does NOT go through your switch cover then send a PM to Texas_Ace and he will see you get a new one.
Ps, do your green leds light up?
They are a lot weaker than on the Q8.
.My switch cover looks exactly the same. Green leds do not light up.
I am not new to flashlights. So I could remove the driver and see if there are any issues. But it would void the warranty.
I don’t think it would void the warranty.
It should be pretty easy to check for power on the led. Just set your DMM to DC volts and probe the rear of the switch pcb on the black and white wires. You should see 2.18v. The white wire is ground and the black wire is for the switch leds. (The red wire is for the e-switch and has 5v to it)
If you see no voltage, then it’s possible your black wire to the switch came loose or the firmware is not sending the signal out. Maybe yours is set to off by default? You could make sure the settings are turned ON. You can see on the bottom of page 6 in the GT manual that there are 3 options.
If you DO see voltage, the software is working fine and it might be your tiny resistor by the leds not making good contact.
Here are some pics.
If you don’t feel up to checking it, I would PM Texas_Ace about getting it fixed (assuming it bothers you).
any news on registered package ?
any news on registered package ?
I haven’t heard anything. The shipments from the 27th and 3rd where just DHL because they where on pallets. This shipment on the 9th seems to have a wide variety of destinations. All we have to go by is people posting here about their orders.
AllenT:Can anyone tell me what the max beam intensity for it?
i didn’t follow the thread
It’s from 1,1 to 1,3 mcd
Thank you!Bo4ka
With Joshi on top, it looks half as big :-P
I have some news on emitter swaps.
I talked to Richard at Mountain Electronics (RMM on these forums and a sponsor here) and told him there might be more than a few guys with GT’S interested in swapping to a cooler tint. He says that if you send in your stock mcpcb to him and buy one of his new XHP35-HI emitters, he will reflow it for free! He has 2 choices right now, 5,000k and 5700k tint. They are both the same D4 brightness bin as the stock GT 4000k emitter.
The cost of both are under $8, plus the shipping cost there and back. I’m in Texas and shipping a small package from him is usually $2 to $3. So I would estimate the entire cost at under $15.
From his store:
BLF GT LED SWAP
Don’t like the tint of your BLF GT XHP35 HI? Send us your MCPCB and we’ll swap it for this one.
Please ship your BLF GT MCPCB to us and we will swap it, test it, clean it, and send it back to you.
Your entire order will not ship until we receive the LED and get it ready to ship.
Ship to:
Mountain Electronics LLC
8076 S. Box Canyon Rd.
West Jordan, UT 84081Here is the link to the 5000k.
Here is the link to the 5700k.
If your outside of the USA, then I’m not sure what shipping would be or if he even does international shipping. You’d have to contact him for details.
That is awesome, Richard is the best! Not an option for us in the rest of the world because of expense I’d say (but yes, he does do international shipping usually), but then again, I’d much rather have a warmish neutral than a coldish one…
Wouldn’t mind 5000k, but doubt I’ll think it’s worth the trouble to change the LED when the light arrives.
Bo4ka: JasonWW: Bo4ka:@DB Custom and lawallac
thanks, but no result. Switch cover is definitely not opaque, I unscrewed it.
It must be lighted, at least after successfull factory reset.Let me see if I can understand.
You never saw any green light from the switch, even though the main led works fine?
You were able to unscrew the switch cover, but it is or isn’t opaque?
Opaque meaning solid, so no light gets through.
It should look like this:
If light does NOT go through your switch cover then send a PM to Texas_Ace and he will see you get a new one.
Ps, do your green leds light up?
They are a lot weaker than on the Q8.
.My switch cover looks exactly the same. Green leds do not light up.
I am not new to flashlights. So I could remove the driver and see if there are any issues. But it would void the warranty.
I don’t think it would void the warranty.
It should be pretty easy to check for power on the led. Just set your DMM to DC volts and probe the rear of the switch pcb on the black and white wires. You should see 2.18v. The white wire is ground and the black wire is for the switch leds. (The red wire is for the e-switch and has 5v to it)
If you see no voltage, then it’s possible your black wire to the switch came loose or the firmware is not sending the signal out. Maybe yours is set to off by default? You could make sure the settings are turned ON. You can see on the bottom of page 6 in the GT manual that there are 3 options.
If you DO see voltage, the software is working fine and it might be your tiny resistor by the leds not making good contact.
Here are some pics.
If you don’t feel up to checking it, I would PM Texas_Ace about getting it fixed (assuming it bothers you).
Black cable was not connected to the driver. Problem solved.
Thank you so much BLF GT Team, for this beautifull monster
My GT arrived today :sunglasses: ! No batteries with DHL.
Thanks to all.
Did the wire break loose or was it not soldered? If it looks like a manufacturing issue we should let Neal know about it.
I’m glad it was an easy fix.
Did the wire break loose or was it not soldered? If it looks like a manufacturing issue we should let Neal know about it.
Probably an isolated case.
Not really something to worry about at this point.
Glad it was just a loose wire.
I’d say it is still better to let them know rather than let it slip.
Sure it could be a very isolated case but I’d rather know than not.