The lower the kelvin LED, the lesser the lumens. To make a NW and WW led like the Nichia, requires darker or additional phosphor. Because of this thicker blanket/darker phosphor covering the blue LED it lowers the lumens vs a CW LED with less/lighter colored phosphor.
You mean “blink” for low voltage protection ?
No, on the Convoy with 3-5 driver, what I understand is that at startup in Low mode, after a few seconds, light blinks once (and at this moment you can begin group switch procedure) Maybe I’m wrong…
I don’t know what the E2L’s LVP protection warning pattern is. My batteries have a protection circuit on board and shuts off power before the light’s built in warning has a chance to activate.
Ok, but I’m not speaking about the LVP blinking
On the Convoy, light blinks one time just seconds after Low mode is selected, and at this very moment you can switch from group 1 to group 2.
Example on video : - YouTube
It was also possible on the Jaxman X1 (but I don’t know how) and I’m asking if it’s the same thing on the E2L… or not
I’m having a problem trying to replace the stock driver of my E2L. The TIR lens does not move at all, it’s stuck firmly to whatever underneath it. I’m afraid I’m gonna break its legs before I can remove it. Any suggestion?
18650 from old laptop battery and ~2100 mAh by my Liitokala Lii 500
Low - not measured
Mid - start 4.22V body ~25C head ~25C and after ~10min body ~32C head ~34C and after ~20min body ~34C head ~37C and after ~30min 4.07V body ~36C head ~38C
High
00min 4.22V body ~27C head ~27C
~05min body ~40C head ~50C
~10min body ~45C head ~58C
~15min body ~54C head ~62C
~20min body ~57C head ~65C
~25min body ~59C head ~67C
...
~55min 3.67V body ~59C head ~69C (ended becouse wire break off finally, but visually there was no brightness drop so far)
some anomalies becouse body measurment wire break loose
The TIR legs are not glued but fit very tight in the ledboard holes. It requires some bravery and risk but if you pry with a very small flat screwdriver near the legs the TIR should come off.
And then there’s the next problem of the ledwires glued in. :smiling_imp:
My advice: leave the front side of the head alone and just get the driver out, the ledwires are long enough to tilt the driver and unsolder the wires there.
I did reflow new leds by just heating up the whole head with the ledboard in place, but I did not check if the glue gets soft enough to remove above 100degC. I may try that next time