Would it be possible to get two parts from Waterjet moving the handle a bit towards the head and srew it on the first part?
Hmm. Actually now that I think about it this is a great idea. It would also allow for some degree of user adjustment for different sized hands or just personal preference.
Tbc, i like your design
It’s simple and effective, clever to use the tripod mount, just slide it on and you can easily reach and operate the switch!
what is the diameter of the bar? Would it be possible to add grips, something like these?
If the plate was bored and threaded, the rod could likewise be threaded and then the bolt and/or tool wouldn’t be needed, simply screw the rod into the plate from whichever side you mount it. Right? 2 pieces total with the one screw affixing it to the light.
You could do that Dale. I like hardware better personally as it would be stronger. Like you said before, once the handle is installed it will most likely stay there. Once it’s together it’s one screw to put it on and take it off no matter what.
Right, once on it’s integral and so needed it’s invisible… part of the light.
I made a bronze component to put on mine yesterday, threaded a manganese bronze rod and when I tested it I had a 6” long 1” bar sticking out the side like the handle on a 1” drive impact wrench. That was cool! Cut it down of course, to a finned 22×22 heat sink looking finger rest.
Edit: YES, I played the kid and “hosed down” everything in sight with GigaLumens. Had to, didn’t I?
I have to admit, after a few seconds of “hosing” and even making the sounds, I caught myself and was embarrassed, even though no one else was around. I supposed I’m beyond help, flashaholic through and through. Woke up this morning and modded a light before making coffee. Sick, I guess.
(Ain’t gonna lie, holding that out-the-side handle and hosing proton’s around the shop was fun, don’t y’all say you wouldn’t have…. ) This thing is intense inside a corrugated metal building.
Hey I just saw the perfect handle for the GT, something similar to the design of the lemax super 70 handle but instead of the screws it has on the bottom, put a 1/4 screw base, we could even make it in some rigid plastic or polymer to save money and weight! What do you all think?
I like it Alex, looks comfy and should be comparatively cheap to produce. Order em up!
Cheap to produce? If you have an order for 10,000 maybe. Get a quote from a mold maker and for a small batch from an injection molding shop and get back to me. The mold alone would cost thousands.
I like it Alex, looks comfy and should be comparatively cheap to produce. Order em up!
Cheap to produce? If you have an order for 10,000 maybe. Get a quote from a mold maker and for a small batch from an injection molding shop and get back to me. The mold alone would cost thousands.
I think he was joking.
I’d rather have one of your machined units anyway!
Back on topic… I should be able to work Proto V2 into my schedule by the weekend. This will at least be the final version of the brackets. As for the handle rod I’m still set on 3/4” aluminum bar stock. For those that want bike grips y’all can slice off my grip easily and do a couple wraps of tape to make the bike grip fit. Though they might fit without tape as well, my bmx days remind me those grips took some elbow grease to get on the 7/8” bars.
3/4” bar stock with nice knurling on it is ideal in my opinion. Can be done with tubing as far as that goes, but I do like things to be rock solid so a bar… hard to beat. I’d probably be prone to reduce the end of the bar and cut threads onto it so it would screw into the bracket, do away with that screw, but that’s probably just me.
What if I just made the brackets and the customer could put any grip they wanted on it?
I say make the handle portion to where it will accommodate a standard bicycle grip. Be done with it
I pretty much say the same thing. Just make the whole thing, 3/4 inch bar stock handle with screw attachment (stronger); stick a fork in it & call it done.
It looks great……..
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
First I was, like WTF? How is he able to hold the light up with just 2 fingers…!!!
Then it hit me! LOL! your pic came out upside down and looks like the GT is floating and you are just holding it down
What? I’m just holding it with my middle finger hooked around the handle. the pic isn’t upside down looking at it on my iPhone.
I’m interested! I am happy to pay shipping costs to Germany. Maybe there will be a few more people from Europe.
Would it be possible to get two parts from Waterjet moving the handle a bit towards the head and srew it on the first part?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Hmm. Actually now that I think about it this is a great idea. It would also allow for some degree of user adjustment for different sized hands or just personal preference.
Interested depending on price. Currently using a shoulder strap with split rings. Works pretty well.
Tbc, i like your design
It’s simple and effective, clever to use the tripod mount, just slide it on and you can easily reach and operate the switch!
what is the diameter of the bar? Would it be possible to add grips, something like these?
Oh NO! I’ve got FUD!
If the plate was bored and threaded, the rod could likewise be threaded and then the bolt and/or tool wouldn’t be needed, simply screw the rod into the plate from whichever side you mount it. Right? 2 pieces total with the one screw affixing it to the light.
You could do that Dale. I like hardware better personally as it would be stronger. Like you said before, once the handle is installed it will most likely stay there. Once it’s together it’s one screw to put it on and take it off no matter what.
Right, once on it’s integral and so needed it’s invisible… part of the light.
I made a bronze component to put on mine yesterday, threaded a manganese bronze rod and when I tested it I had a 6” long 1” bar sticking out the side like the handle on a 1” drive impact wrench. That was cool!
Cut it down of course, to a finned 22×22 heat sink looking finger rest.
Edit: YES, I played the kid and “hosed down” everything in sight with GigaLumens.
Had to, didn’t I?
Haha. That’s awesome. I’ve been toying with the idea of engraving BFL9000 on mine as a BFG9000 DOOM parody. That would be the perfect setup for it.
I have to admit, after a few seconds of “hosing” and even making the sounds, I caught myself and was embarrassed, even though no one else was around. I supposed I’m beyond help, flashaholic through and through. Woke up this morning and modded a light before making coffee. Sick, I guess.
(Ain’t gonna lie, holding that out-the-side handle and hosing proton’s around the shop was fun, don’t y’all say you wouldn’t have….
) This thing is intense inside a corrugated metal building.
Hey I just saw the perfect handle for the GT, something similar to the design of the lemax super 70 handle but instead of the screws it has on the bottom, put a 1/4 screw base, we could even make it in some rigid plastic or polymer to save money and weight! What do you all think?
I like it Alex, looks comfy and should be comparatively cheap to produce. Order em up!
It looks much better than the home made jobbies.
On post #1, the first two pictures,
The gt looks like it’s got a few scratches near the handle area , did the handle cause this?
Cheap to produce? If you have an order for 10,000 maybe. Get a quote from a mold maker and for a small batch from an injection molding shop and get back to me. The mold alone would cost thousands.
You need to make it in China.
I think he was joking.
I’d rather have one of your machined units anyway!
Back on topic… I should be able to work Proto V2 into my schedule by the weekend. This will at least be the final version of the brackets. As for the handle rod I’m still set on 3/4” aluminum bar stock. For those that want bike grips y’all can slice off my grip easily and do a couple wraps of tape to make the bike grip fit. Though they might fit without tape as well, my bmx days remind me those grips took some elbow grease to get on the 7/8” bars.
Exactly…
3/4” bar stock with nice knurling on it is ideal in my opinion. Can be done with tubing as far as that goes, but I do like things to be rock solid so a bar… hard to beat. I’d probably be prone to reduce the end of the bar and cut threads onto it so it would screw into the bracket, do away with that screw, but that’s probably just me.
What if I just made the brackets and the customer could put any grip they wanted on it?
I say make the handle portion to where it will accommodate a standard bicycle grip. Be done with it.
>>>Searching for a specific flashlight? <<<
It looks great……..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Was out in the shop working on something else and thought about a handle, gave it a go…
Now if I can just get me one of these brackets to attach it to…
My OCD bugged me about this all night…
So today I got busy…
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