So I have triple xp-g3 and blf a6 driver, my multimeter says 7amps, my 10A aliexpress ammeter says 11 which is past the range lol! What are you getting? What should I get?
7-8A is about right for xp-g3 triple on A6 driver. Shorter, heavier wires and a real good high drain battery, will bump it to the higher end of that range.
Some fet drivers will do better than others, depending on the specific fet used, and trace specs of the board.
I am running a H17F driver, and LG HE2, but they will all be pretty close.
I prefer the double tap for “turbo”, and regulated for my normal low – high modes.
This triple for me with…
…Wights FET (no AMC7135) ca. 5-6A (FET PSMN0R9-25YLC)
…TA 17mm ca 7.2A (PSMN0R9-30YLD) <- wrong FET, I used PSMN3R0-30YLD (sorry for typo)
I never had the actual BLF A6 driver, but these are somewhat comparable.
Astrolux drivers from BG have big variance in actual tested current. I dont like testing current on flashlights, but when Im building pill or drop-in I test it with small 5A current supply. It have too big internal resistance and current is 2-3 times lower than with good imr cell, but anyway it is suitable to compare same leds with driver builds. LEDs are very close nowadays, while astrolux drivers can give 20-30% difference to each other.
The higher measurement is probably the more accurate one but – as said already – you should use a clampmeter for easy and accurate measurements with flashlights at higher currents.
I get 12.20 Amps on BLF A6 (A17DD_L) driver, with 3 x Osram Oslon Square CQAR.CC (3500 K 96 CRI) and LG HE4 @ 4.18 V, measured with UT210E.
But this means also that the temp of the FET after 30 sek. on Turbo raises above 100 deg C which might be not good for it’s lifetime…
7-8A is about right for xp-g3 triple on A6 driver. Shorter, heavier wires and a real good high drain battery, will bump it to the higher end of that range.
Some fet drivers will do better than others, depending on the specific fet used, and trace specs of the board.
allright, sweet! Seems to be working then! Thanks!
Same here, about 7.6A, same leds, same driver as Blazer… Samsung 30Q cell.
how about triple nichia 219c 92cri ? Same driver!
Well, sorta……
I am running a H17F driver, and LG HE2, but they will all be pretty close.
I prefer the double tap for “turbo”, and regulated for my normal low – high modes.
HE2 vs the 30Q is a wash.
triple XPG3 should pull like 12-14A from a good IMR cell
if you dont use a clamp meter you wont get accurate readings as you add a voltage drop to the circuit
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
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This triple for me with…
…Wights FET (no AMC7135) ca. 5-6A (FET PSMN0R9-25YLC)
…TA 17mm ca 7.2A (
PSMN0R9-30YLD) <- wrong FET, I used PSMN3R0-30YLD (sorry for typo)I never had the actual BLF A6 driver, but these are somewhat comparable.
edited for wrong FET
New review: Wuben TO40R XPL2 18650
Astrolux drivers from BG have big variance in actual tested current. I dont like testing current on flashlights, but when Im building pill or drop-in I test it with small 5A current supply. It have too big internal resistance and current is 2-3 times lower than with good imr cell, but anyway it is suitable to compare same leds with driver builds. LEDs are very close nowadays, while astrolux drivers can give 20-30% difference to each other.
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
I get about 11-12A with H17F with XP-L HI. It’s brighter than a few quads that I have.
The higher measurement is probably the more accurate one but – as said already – you should use a clampmeter for easy and accurate measurements with flashlights at higher currents.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
My 6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest Entry
I get 12.20 Amps on BLF A6 (A17DD_L) driver, with 3 x Osram Oslon Square CQAR.CC (3500 K 96 CRI) and LG HE4 @ 4.18 V, measured with UT210E.
But this means also that the temp of the FET after 30 sek. on Turbo raises above 100 deg C which might be not good for it’s lifetime…
My LED tests: Cree SC5 based LEDs (WIP!) --- Nichia 319AT 83 CRI - Optisolis (3000/5000 K) - Lumileds Luxeon LXML-PWD9 - Luxeon MZ 5700 K (90 CRI, 3 V) - Luxeon V (CSP) 4000 K 70CRI - Luminus SST-40-W (+ dedomed) - Cree XP-L2 (+ High CRI variant) - XHP35 HI - XHP70.2 - CXA1304 COB - OSRAM OSLON Black Flat HWQP - SYNIOS DMLQ31.SG - LE UW Q8WP - unknown 5050 LED ---- finished: JAXMAN M8 (Mini C8) HighCRI Triple
Yeah I have to buy a clamp meter lol
yeah I'll get one
Getting around 10amps on my S8 triple with 219c and fet+1. Measured using an inline power meter.
S8 Triple - 219c, MTN-17DDm
M1 - XP-L 7a, 105c
C8 - XP-L HI, A17DD-L