What did you mod today?

Still not understanding what that means but it sounds like it doesn’t affect much on how I use the light. The only thing I wish is to know when the battery’s fully charged.

triple click on Narsil shows you the battery level in 0.1V steps

Looks much more welcoming :slight_smile:

Lexel - I know it will become more evident once I open ’er up and trace the wire paths but if I understand correctly -
(a) for the new Narsil driver board I must disconnect the old MCU regardless and
(b) connect existing switch wires to “S and G” at location SW on the new Board. Will that allow the MCU Indicator to show on the old switch LEDs or light where?

Toykeeper - that low-drain Q8 button options sounds fantastic. If it isn’t already, it should become the norm. I will read up on it and try to see if/where/I can apply it.

Puglife - that’s a dramatic impact. Hope the warm tint doesn’t affect the beer. :stuck_out_tongue:

Just some pretty basic stuff

installed an XPL HI V3 and BLF X5/X6 Driver into my clear C8

Then Put the Biscotti driver from My C8 into my Sand Brown S2+

Success

Cheers :beer: :beer:

Just finished my special project today :slight_smile:

JetBeam E20R running NarsilM + Rechargeable MicroUSB Charging, working perfectly.

It’s a tough fight (lots of swearing involved) :smiley: The bezel is glued tight with blue stuff, got it off with a lot of heat from my butane torch, and bicycle inner tube for grip.

Sorry, no photos of the build process.


Dedomed XP-G2, 800lm, 24kcd with fully charged efest purple 18350.

Nice mod bwings. I think the dedomed XPG2 is a great match for smaller flashlights. Good performance with the lower heat output and battery drain suited for smaller lights.

Thanks EasyB, yeah XP-G2 for better run time, was thinking about dedoming the SST-40 from E20R, it comes with Copper DTP though.

Great mod bwings, I wish I could do that. I have an E40R that I really like, just the operation is horrible. I have changed the led (to XM-L2 3000K 90CRI) but the UI is stopping me from using it.

Neat little JetBeam, bet it’s really a great little EDC now after all that. Well done! :slight_smile:

What’s the UI like ?

The idea of the UI is not bad, just the timing. What really makes it intolerable is looooooooooooooooooong press for switch-on.

if you do not disconnect old MCU you have the breathing mode and charge indicator, but a massive parasitig drain
you can use L on new board to use Indicator Output and LS for permanently lit side switch

Some work to do today
Astrolux MF01, MF02, BLF Q8 2S and Thrunite TN42 drivers with Narsil

smaller TA ones for Skilhunt H03, S42, L6 with Narsil
17mm TA for normal C8
22mm TA for UF Mod

^ Well done, that looks like a lot of work! Sorry for not following your driver thread, but do you offer a 17mm FET+7135-based Narsil driver with connections for a remote e-switch? (I like to use it for the Sofirn C8 triple host)

What fabricator are you using for the red boards?

Green Lantern and HAL 9000:

Got the green D4 yesterday and couldn’t wait to tinker with it.
Changed the driver against my new one and added a green SMD-LED to the MCPCB. It serves as a indicator LED, lit continously when light is off and flashing each 4 seconds when the light is locked. Can be deactivated of course with a few clicks. The right one is my previously presented RGBW D4 (with the red LED as indicator LED).

I love my Manker T01, but so boring! I’ll trade you for yours, then u can mod mine anyway you like :slight_smile:

Added an ultra low and pwm free moon mode to my D4 driver firmware which is accessible through normal ramping. MCU is actually sleeping in this mode. Brightness can be configured by resistor change on spring side of the driver board (no need to take the driver out).
Current consumption 115 uA in my actual configuration with 15k resistor. Should run a couple of years with one cell.

thre remote e-switch is to handle high currents of modern DD lights, not conncted to the driver, so Bistro with 1 Mode is best way for driver

Also modded today the light of patmurris

Added also some GITD tape


I used Seeed for the boards but not very happy with it
doubled sided drivers make problems
I have on many drivers with solder mask on the rim of traces not fully closed and AMCs shorting with their ground fin, probably because they need 0.4mm clearance between pads before solder mask is applied for sure

Same with 0.35mm viases they are many times completely uncovered inside, 0.75mm viases have always no solder mask inside

I dont know whitch what they read Gerber files but they are uncapable of reading ground rings drawn as circle, sometimes swap pads by 45° which can lead to shorts