"Tactical Light"?

MascaratumB

Clark Kent could change into his tights quicker than that, but, he was bullet proof even while he was still in street clothes, so he was never really under much stress. :wink:

I guess we could give that type of light it’s own category, we’ll call them Semi-Tactical.

Like I said before, I’m sure it’s a great light. But… is a dual purpose light really sound tactically? Not for me, because I’ll screw something up when it really counts. It’s just not strictly speaking, primarily “Tactical”. Maybe that’s just ME or my opinion. I may even use it as a backup in a pinch.

But I’m the kind of guy that uses my cell phone for my moonlight mode.

I understand what you say! I just wanted to explain how the light works for you to be aware of it !
There are many options on the market that will suit you better than the Nitefox UT20, I’m sure. The Jetbeams are normally “sold” as tactical lights, whatever that may be :smiley:

My tactical “set” is a cheappo flashlight modded with biscotti firmware from Convoy that I normally use with one of these modes 6 (100–20–1), 11 (100–20-Strobe) or 12 (100), no memory, so they always start on the highest output!
But I just use them as complementary lights in specific conditions (like when I need a burst of light and don’t have another one that allows me to get “turbo” in an instant).

My post before was just to explain how the UT20 UI works :wink:
Hope you find one that is good for what you need :+1:

Power911

You and me both. I still have my old surefire first model, before the 6P came out. It came with a rechargeable battery and a charger. I’ve kept all the old parts, but I’ve updated the light with a 1000 lumen LED drop-in. I keep it in my range bag for a spare. I rarely almost never carry it anymore.

And you’re right they are way over priced, in any country.

MascaratumB

I have a couple of those myself, I haven’t found them very reliable though, they occasionally change modes from rattling around when I walk.

IMO there is a real purpose for a true tactical flashlight, so its not necessarily just a buzzword to sell more flashlights to men, noobs or mall ninjas. Unfortunately lot of manufactures slap the word tactical on lights that really aren’t.

For me, when I see the description of Tactical for a flashlight it means MIGHT operate as needed in a “critical” event. (For example, an intruder breaking into your house at night while you’re home!) For a situation like that I need:

1. To quickly find the switch in total darkness.
2. The light to come on at its brightest level, every time I click it no matter what.

So side switches and memory for tactical are out. Forward tail clicky is in.
(A forward clicky for its momentary function is desirable for the ability to quickly and silently toggle between on and off)

For the tail switch No-modes-No-memory-No BullSh, just plain on-off direct to turbo every time. I need to be assured of that without even giving it a second thought. Especially for me because I have so many different lights with different UI’s, I need that one I can count on to work as described when the sh goes down.

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Looking at the Nitefox UT20 as a tactical light is what brought me to this thread, a no memory tac mode is good but if I understand correctly subsequent half presses change modes to strobe then low. (MascaratumB I still have to read your whole review)

I can see the desire for strobe and low but for tactical I don’t want those messing with my tail switch function. I think what may have been better would be to have the side switch work in tac mode, but only for strobe and low, and leave the tail for turbo only.

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This is a good plan except for the reverse ckicky, pretty sure you can mod it to a forward by soldering in a new switch.

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There aren’t many lights like this but here’s an excellent example of one with a tail switch that works exactly as I described in my above post:

  • “Tactical tailcap high mode switch”
  • “Tactical forward tail cap switch”

Crelant-7G3CS-1226-Lumens-Cree-LED-Flashlight-Cree-XP-L-HI
Crelant-7G3CS-1226-Lumens-Cree-LED-Flashlight-Cree-XP-L
Crelant-7G3CS-960-Lumens-Cree-LED-Flashlight-Cree-XM-L2

Once it’s on you can work the side switch for Hi and Low modes, Ramping, Hidden Strobe and SOS.

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Indeed, when you half press - repeatedly - the tail button with the “tactical” group active, you will have the Strobe and Low on the way! The first will always be the highest output and only after the others. And I do understand that it can be messy and not the ideal solution! It was only a suggestion :wink:
I would prefer it that way, with tail button only for High and side switch for strobe or/and low. Or vice-versa!

Yup, a forward clicky switch will work fine with biscotti, with no memory activated at least :wink:
The washer and the rubber tailcap may have to be slightly moded, but it will work :wink:

What light’s does LEO’s use? Maby a new thread?

[quote=MascaratumB]

[quote=beam0]

Thanks, I’m going to look into that and give it a try sometime.

Yeah I’d like to hear what some are using, and if they’re using something supplemental (or instead of) what their departments issue. I think a lot use Streamlight.

Another interesting design of a tactical tail switch that comes to mind is by Klarus with their patented “dual tail switch” with “Straight to strobe” button.

(click on photos for link)

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A lot of manufactures consider strobe a disorientating “weapon” for tactical use
Klarus actually has strobe FIRST in their “Classic Tactical” group, and another group with strobe they call “Tactical Assault”!:

Pretty sure this user interface is patented by Surefire!

MascaratumB

They should work, but I have had 2 that don’t seem to take much to bump them out of “mode”. That can really suck in an emergency.

stephenk

You are kidding… right. It’s such a crude design.

Eagletac

Convoy M2 XPL Hi + biscotti set to only 100%

Simple, reliable, crenelated bezel and will only get you to 100%. But it’s missing a forward switch

Anthon

I tried that (I actually like the size and feel of an M2) , the problem is, the modes don’t seem to stay set when the light gets bumped.

Sounds like the springs inside are not under very much tension. Bumps cause the connection to the battery to be lost and the driver interprets that is a mode change click. Is the cell an unprotected one? Do you have a protected cell or some other longer cell to test with? The longer the cell is, the less sensitive the light should to to bumps.

Mike C

I’ve tried that and it does help, but doesn’t fix it 100%.

True bump “protection” can be implemented in firmware, I’ve done it in mine and I think TK has done it (I got the idea from her anyway). I wouldn’t know if your M2 driver is compatible with TK’s firmware, it isn’t with mine.