Eheh, it could be that option too :smiling_imp:
Yes, the driver is definitely the weak link on these lights. Simple drivers should, IMO, be always L>M>H with no memory. Anything extra like strobe and SOS should come after high
Today i received SF10. It is a very good AA EDC flashlight but not a 14500. Very good construction. I think tint is about 5000 - 5500k and power is about ~100 lumen on AA .
SF10 looks nice, today with special price only $6.95, just bought one :person_facepalming:
! Sofirn SF10 AA/14500 battery with special price for 5 days !
Ok. I removed the pill of the SF10 to change the emitter, but I forgot about the placement of the O-ring in front. Is the O-ring between the lens and reflector or is it outside, similar to Convoy S2+ ?
The O-ring fits between the lens and the bezel, not the reflector!
Some weeks ago I put it between the lens and the reflector and while screwing it in, I broke the lens!
So, o-ring between the lens and the bezel 
Noted, but do you mean while screwing the pill in? It’s the SF10 we’re talking about, right? The SF10 has a removable pill and a fixed bezel. Didn’t know that the glass lens is more susceptible to breaking if the O-ring is placed between the reflector and the lens.
Yes, the SF10 is the same of the picture posted above on post #35 I called it bezel because I don’t know what to call it! But it as a removable pill + reflector + lens+ o-ring
What I mean is that I was once screwing in the pill and made more pressure than I should. As the o-ring was between the reflector and the lens, and not between the lens and the “bezel”, the strength applied was too much in a part of the lens, so it broke. The O-ring, besides sealing, may have that “shock absorber” funtion. The hard surface of the lens vs the hard surface of the bezel made it crush.
When the reflector is just below the lens, it will apply the same pressure in all parts of the lens and the o-ring above the lens will absorb it and hinder the lens to have friction in the bezel
Conclusion of this: I had to order another lens that arrived yesterday ! In some weeks I’ll have a new driver, a new emitter, and Sofirn SF10 will no longer be what it was :smiling_imp:
Exactly what I have in mind. The SF10 is compact and feels very solid because of its hefty battery tube and good knurling. More importantly, it can take a 17mm driver and 16mm LED base. I just wish mine came with a brass pill instead of cheap aluminum.
Speaking of the lens, mind if ask the diameter and thickness of the new lens that you ordered? I’m thinking of getting an Acrylite 18.00 mm x 1.60 mm. Do you think it will fit snugly?
Nice! If I weren’t hip-deep in AA lights, I’d be tempted to get one or more. 
’Though if the SF11 goes on sale, I’m totally there…
I think all of my flashlights have the o-ring as the first think after the bezel/head piece, otherwise it wouldn’t work as a means to keep water/dust outside the flashlight
Just a tease on how mine is looking right now :sunglasses:
The Emisar D4, as far as I remember, has Bezel > Lens > O-Ring > TIR !
I bought clear glass lens, super cheap but effective, on a AliExpress store. It has 17.6 x 1.4 mm! I guess that 18x1.6 will fit properly! The stock lens is 18x1.5
Mine has a brass pill, but it is thin! I’m thinking about putting a “good” driver, but I ain’t sure it it will work! Maybe putting some thing inside the pill helps on heat dissipation 
Gotta work on that!
By removing the hard coating, you effectively made the scratch/dent barely noticeable.
Finding a “good driver” shouldn’t be hard. You just have to decide if you still want AA NiCd battery or go lithium all the way.
Nop, with the contrast of black vs aluminium was even more evident 
BUT, the screw-in clip is in charge to cover it
I have made my mind about the driver, I’ll use a BLF X5 driver :smiling_imp:
I have 2 Efest IMR14500 on the way to warm this beauty! Other lights are taking AA and Ni-MH, so this will use exclusively 14500s Li-ion
I guess it will be nice after the work! My only issue so far ins thinking about the heat dissipation, but I will only be able to decide on what to do after the driver arrive (to check the space used internally)! I may have to make the pill taller in some way to give it a better path for heat! Let’s see :nerd_face:
I said barely noticeable, right? But I get it. It’s the stainless screw-in clip that did the trick.
I think you’re forgetting about the wires. You have to make room for them. You can’t cut them short because you need some space to get the removable pill back in.
Sorry Jaded, I didn’t read carefully and inverted the sense of the word :person_facepalming:
Yup, the clip covers it well and it fits nicely on the light! I use it since I got the light some months ago!
Yes, that’s another thing that keeps me thinking on the options to have some copper (or other thing) above the pill (where the LED board sits), or to add a adapter ring below the pill to make it taller and gain more space for the wires and for something to absorb the heat, maybe something like this: https://led4power.com/product/ld-a4-thermal-enhancement-kit-convoy-s2/ .
Decisions decisions! :person_facepalming:
I just got another SF12 and must say it’s much improved. Still not perfect, but enough to maybe warrant an updated review
Thanks for this review, I was finally able to disassemble the pill to swap the emitter. The SF10 I have goes from L > M > H. However, it always start at High, which I don’t like. There’s no PWM on any mode. The tint is about 5000-5500k. No blue and no pink at all even when using 14500. I like the style better than the SF14 more but the SF14 always start at Low which I like more and the SF14 is much easier to mod.