I was wondering the same thing. But I’m looking for a driver that doesn’t have multiple modes (so I can use Lexel’s rear pressure switch mods with it on my hunting rig).
I think Sofirn sells their driver but if you’re looking for serious output, you might grab Richards FET+1. There are a couple e-switch firmware options including the new popular D4 firmware that ships on the Emisar D4 from Hank and written by Tom E and ToyKeeper.
Which brings me to ask a question… Has anyone else had a very difficult time in unscrewing the tail cap internal retaining ring/ I have 2 and have not been able to unscrew either tail cap retainer ring.
:person_facepalming: I thank you for that tidbit of info. I did get it removed just now. My retainer ring was quite snug after all the “loosening” attempts I had done. :disappointed: :person_facepalming: I never dreamed it could be a left hand thread. If I read that I completely forgot it. Thank you all very very much.
Thanks GC! I took the bite last night... two C8F's and 8 XP-LT LEDs from Arrow are on the way. I used your link to the LEDs and man was that easy-- otherwise a needle in a hay stack :UGHH: I am looking forward to actually using some solder for the first time here. But, the LEDs will be here Tuesday while the C8Fs will take a month (or more?). So I'll have plenty of time to look at the shiny new LEDs :P
I looked at Richard's stuff some and I'm glad to see an option or two. Although I am still navigating my way re. understanding many driver features, the one thing still alluding me is output (and I'm starting to understand that specifications aside- you often have to try it to know). Being a newbie and wanting to get started with something in a working model-- I ordered the newer KDlight C8 (with the XHP50.2 in a 5K @ 2600 Lumen) because THAT driver got great marks on output and efficiency. I wish it didn't have the modes it has (since I'm using it for hunting as mentioned), but for the output I figured it would work well enough to get me started.
If Lexel (or someone) gets a HIGH output/efficient driver like the one in the KDLight, but in a single mode (on/off)-- I'll be happy with something like that for ONE of these C8F's. I did see Richard's $20 driver which (I think) would do this (and I LOVE the thermal management I read about on it), so might get one for my final hunting rig (which would end up using ONE of these two C8F's).
OK, dumb question (#357 )... Does the driver for these C8F kits HAVE to have taps for the switch? Or can it be hard wired in at some point?
My first complete C8F has a locked tail cap retaining ring too. Only light that has beat me on disassembly. I kinda gave up but I will give it a GO with Heat a few more times.
Haven’t played with the Hosts yet though…
Some advice please. I am building using the Sofirn host and driver. I did the same thing contactcr did, leave the wires long and try to stuff them down in the open space below the driver. I can get the thing to turn on but only if I don’t have the tube screwed all the way in. That is, if I have the tail cap on tight and the tube body unscrewed it works. If I snug up the tube body it doesn’t turn on. I guess you will want to know what battery I am using but I am not at home right now so can’t tell you. It is flat top that was pulled from a computer battery. Everything works fine if I just leave the tube loose.
Check and see if your spring bypass is still secure too. Could it be triggering the battery protection (you said laptop pull) when a loose bypass wire makes connection with less resistance (on either end really)
This light is made to accept the non-anodized threads into the head of the light. Anodized threads at the tail cap. Without having pictures of the actual arrangement of the wires and such, it’s just impossible to predict what the problem might be. The simplest and easiest to make mistake is to reassemble with the battery tube inverted, causing contact issues. Other than that, there shouldn’t be any issue if all the contacts are made properly.
Keeping the wires long from the MCPCB allows the light to be assembled, but they need to be cut off just long enough to solder onto the driver, this will prevent an excess of wires in the driver bay. Done this way, even 18ga wires will work…
I will have to check. I remember having the non anodized threads at the head. That is why I kept the tube unscrewed at the head, I figured the tail cap had to be on tight to make contact. The light does light, just not when the head threads are tightened up. I remember a previous thread somewhere about this happening and if I remember right the springs were pushing so hard on the battery that it deformed the battery causing loss of current. I’m not sure why this would happen as I haven’t done any modification of the tube or cap.